Your washer uses 4 tub dampening straps. It is recommended to replace all 4 at the same time. They keep the tub in the center of the cabinet and are sold individually.
The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. It's the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft. This seal is difficult to replace and should probably ...
This tub bearing goes in your washing machine. You will find it on the bottom of the outer tub, where the transmission goes through the tub. If you hear metal on metal when the washer is spinning, you...
This part is the hub nut, or lock down nut for your washing machine. It is designed to hold the inner tub on to the transmission. If your hub nut is stripped or damaged, it may need to be replaced. T...
This is a replacement hub washer for your washing machine. If your washer is noisy, leaking, shaking, or pumping without spinning, you may need to replace the hub washer. The hub washer is found under...
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Questions And Answers for GTWN4250D0WS
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Hi Gary, thank you for your question. The other parts to check in this case would be your water inlet valve. You can test that part with a multi meter. The valve can be tested with a multi meter and should be reading between 500 - 1500 ohms of resistance. Otherwise it might be your lid lock that is the issue. I hope that helps. Good luck with your repair.
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Jorge
December 26, 2019
Mi lavadora hace ruido cuando esta moviendose el agitador,parece que tiene metal o monedas atoradas debajo de el agitador pero lo quite y esta limpio,me puedes ayudar a decirme que piezas tengo que cambiar para corregir ese problema
For model number GTWN4250D0WS
Hola Jorge, gracias por la pregunta. Le sugiero que compruebe el número de parte de selección de cojinete de la tina PS271510, el número de parte de selección de anillo partido PS1766022 y el número de parte de parte de la arandela del cubo PS271511 por daños o desgaste. ¡Espero que esto ayude!
Washer does not start after it fills up. I drain it and restart it works. Wasting a lot of water and detergent. Any answers?
For model number GTWN4250D0WS
Hello Roger, thank you for your question. We have a video on troubleshooting that may be of some help for you. If you need help placing an order, customer service is open 7 days a week. Please feel free to give us a call. We look forward to hearing from you.
Power button doesn't work and doesn't complete wash cycle. Appears to wash 1 and 1/2 times before completing wash cycle.
For model number GTWN4250D0WS
Hello Karen, thank you for reaching out. We have researched your model and found that the issue you are facing could be due to a faulty electronic control board, part number PS8757105, damaged lid switch, part number PS1482372, or faulty backsplash assembly, PS11701143. Customer service is available 7 days a week if you need help placing an order. Glad to be of assistance!
Water level is not hi enough .
Level selector on small the water is deeper that level select on Max
Any ideas
For model number GTWN4250D0WS
Hello Bill, thank you for your question. Most probably the pressure switch, part number PS2354068, is defective. The pressure switch senses and controls the water level in the washer. If it is defective, your washer will either not fill with water, or the water level will not be the desired one. Customer service is always available to help you place an order if you are having trouble doing so. Good luck with your repair.
After removing frt panel which prys off I checked for anything obvious like a loose belt. Then I jiggled the magnet switch located on the inside of the loading cover. I saw the machine start agitating the it stopped again when I stopped touching it. I ordered the new part and spliced it in with the wire crip tool. Now the machine is A ok.
First I removed the screws that held the hose drain hose clip in place. Removed the damaged hose. Placed the new drain hose clip at the end of the new drain hose. Re-inserted back in hole, pushed in hose to necessary depth then tighted screws, Very easy and painless.
To diagnose, first I unhooked the washer: power, water supply, and drain pipe. I then slid the washer out, laying it on its front. With nutdriver, I unscrewed two screws that held the other end of the drain tube and removed it completely. Then, again with the nutdriver removed 4 screws from the back near the legs, two in between the legs in the middle, and approx. 4 to 6 on the bottom. This let me pull the bottom off partially to access the motor area. (I did did not take the bottom completely off, only about 2/3 off and let it bend over, as it was flexible tin) The belt was broken. After receiving the new belt, I positioned it between the pulley and the motor and between the drum and the big pulley. Then I rotated the big pulley, pulling the belt onto it as I rotated. At the same time, as I rotated, I pulled the other end of the belt on to the little pulley. Once it was on, I would put pressure on it as I turned the pulley, to jump the belt to the appropriate grooves on the little pulley. Note: the replacement belt had been modified, so it had one less groove than the pulley. I would have known this if I had read the insert that came with the belt first! Anyway, this was not a problem, only a design change. Also it was important to start the belt on the inside, so if it slipped, you didnt loose your bite. Total diagnostic, repair, and reassembly time: 30 minutes plus or minus. I had read other online forums that said you had to loosen the motor, etc. And I do know some type of a belt installation tool was offered on line, but I got along fine with my installation method. An extra set of hands would have been helpful, but not necessary.
