GTW685BPL0DG General Electric Washer - Instructions

I ordered a drive belt later to go with this repair which I wish I had done when I ordered the speed sensor and saved shipping. I think that was the real culprit. I had get customer service to help me with the part number because it wasn't listed on the parts list.

I set washer to drain and spin empty to get as much water out as possible. Tilted washer on its side on top of two thick cushions so was about a 15 degree angle off the floor and didn't spill leftover water in the drum.
I took the protective cover off using socket wrench for the 3 bolts. There was belt shreds all over the bottom. Took off smaller drive wheel with socket wrench in order to get to speed sensor. Speed sensor is connected on the motor frame. I used two small flathead screwdrivers in the slots to unsnap the old part. Cleaned off belt debris. Connected the new speed sensor wires first then should click into place. Put drive wheel back on. Put new belt on small drive wheel and lined up grooves. Note that the new drive belt will be smaller than the old one. I found the easiest way to get the new belt on is to hold it on the small wheel and start wrapping the belt on one side of the large wheel and rotating the wheels which is going to turn the drum. Sort of how you would rechain a bike which shows my age!
Put protective cover back on.

The last thing I did was since I had access to the bottom of the drum was to clean out the pressure line port which can lead to spin issues. It is about half an arms length up the side of drum above the drain hose. Its a small gray tubing attached to the drum. Pull the tubing off and it reveals a little port that can get clogged. Use your1/16th drill bit and put in the port about an inch to inch and half and clear out the port. Re-attach the hose firmly.

Machine working as good as new and clothes are almost bone dry now!

Took off belt/motor housing and replaced belt. Put housing back on. Very easy.

I unplugged the machine from the power source and removed the drain hose from the back and allowed any remaining water to drain out of the machine. I then tipped the machine back so that I could work underneath it and secured it in that position. I removed the old drain pump assembly by first disconnecting it from the outflow hose, then removing the three bolts which held the motor housing cover on and disconnecting it from the power source. This part was the the most difficult and time-consuming as the wires are plugged in very tightly but once those were separated, it was just a matter of unscrewing the drain pump assembly from where it was anchored to the underside of the washing machine. I simply reversed those steps to install the new one and it was in place within 10 minutes. Set the washing machine down in the correct position, reconnected the drain hose, and plug the machine in. I did reset the fault codes by using the manual found taped to the underside of the machine, but this was very simple to do and only took a few minutes. I’m not sure if it was necessary to do that step at the machine works perfectly now. I am a woman and found this repair very easy to do.

Dipped water out as much as possible,tited washer at a 45 degree angle and propped it up. Took the 3 bolts out holding the pump assembly and the 3 bolts holding the belt guard.Unplug wire connecter,pull out assembly and than pull drain hose off of assembly. Reinstall the same as you take apart. Was a easy fix, and worked as it should.

This was a very easy repair. It is basically and 'plug & play'. Be sure to separate the panel from the silver back plate slowly and carefully and note all connections, particularly the orange hollow tube connection. Every connector can only go into one corresponding spot. The most time spent was removing the screws to get inside the housing.

Removed the center agitator to clean it - had black mold and pink soap scum buildup underneath that you couldn't see or clean without taking it apart. Removed the bolt with ease. Upon tightening the bolt back in place, the bolt sheared in half, leaving the lower half threaded in place and the head in the socket. Had to use a drill bit and drill out the lower half of the bolt completely. Ordered the replacement bolt and reassembled everything in less than 5 minutes. Replacement part was perfect - hopefully it lasts longer than the original bolt.

We disconnected the rear of the dashboard and folded it toward. We unsnapped the top cover and exposed the lid lock. We removed the old lid lock and replaced it with the new parts from SelectPart. Put it all back together.

unplugged old part plugged in new, took about 2 minutes.

this is a great web site, I didn't have to wait for a serviceman to come. and maybe not have the part and come back again. ........thanks

I contacted parts select and entered washer information and asked them if they thought they would now what the problem was and and they responded with a answer and also a list of two parts that they thought might take care of the problem. I ordered the parts,looked on u tube to see how to change them and replaced both parts .I think the clutch was good but the drive belt was stretched and needed replaced.Know it works great.

Unplugged washer and hoses. Removed 4 screws in back control panel and 4 screws holding control panel down. Drained capacitor and checked that. It was good. Pryed washer top off with screw driver. Used vice grips to remove old and install new spring rods, replacing them one at a time. While lid was off I cut a small diameter pool noodle in half and cut 4 half noodles the size of each side. I unclipped one side of the tub cap and ran an 11" zip tie through the hole in the middle of one side and back up and out where the tub skirt and cap meet, then tied the half noodle to the edge of the tub cap and snapped down cap. Then repeated with the other three sides. I did this so heavier clothes, if they got out of balance, would continue to spin. The noodles keeping the tub from moving too far out of balance. The rod springs helped with lighter loads but still shut down spinning with heavy clothes. The machine always handled heavy clothes for 7 years until the last month or so. If it breaks with the noodles, I'll get another new machine.

Extremely easy. You will need a helper to make it easy. The best directions are on you tube.

Unplug washer; turn off hot/cold water valves at wall. Access rear of washer; remove 2 long screws anchoring control panel; remove 3 short screws along top of control panel; remove panel; rotate panel forward to rest on washer top (disconnect orange pressure attached to green computer panel. Blue water valve assembly is obvious! Remove hot & cold inlet hoses from washer (have bucket handy to catch water in hoses). Take picture of old water valve so you can reinstall electrical clips in exact same sequence! Remove 3 short screws that anchor water valve; lift out water valve; disconnect clips; gently life out old water valve. Install new water valve in reverse order.

Use needle-nose pliers as a lever to remove tight electrical clips (they are not designed to come loose easily). Google online videos. Really easy, when you watch a couple videos!

I just took old one out an put new one in

You have to take the top off of the washer and the four suspension rods are at each corner. Fairly simple removal and installation of the rods. A quick you tube search is all it took. Easy peasy.

The drain pump had three screws. Frist unplug the machine and turn the water off. And unplug the hose for the Hot and Clod Water. Make sure their no water in the tub. Unplug the pipe from the Tub. The unscrew the nut for the connector. Then unplug the connector and be careful not to damage plug for the connector. Press the plug connector with your finger or long nose pliers . Then just hook the new plumb and you all set.