GTW685BPL0DG General Electric Washer - Instructions

Drain all the water out of the tub with a shop vac
Remove rear drain hose and drained rest of water into a bucket
Remove small rear panel (bottom left hand corner) where the drain hose connects
Tipped washer up about 45 degrees to get underneath it - Supported it with a few paint cans
Remove internal drain hose/clamps from pump - w/ pliers
Remove belt cover (gray plastic) with socket - 3 bolts
Remove wire assembly plug from socket
Remove old drain pump with socket - 3 bolts
Install new drain pump - 3 bolts - plug wire assembly into socket
Reinstall belt cover - 3 bolts
Reinstall hose to drain pump (note panel will be inside washer)
Feed drain hose panel through hole and reinstall - 1 nut
Re attached drain hose to exterior drain plug
You are done !

Very simple to repair. Be sure to drain the tub outside or into the sump pump then lay the washer on its side. The pump is right there on the bottom of the basket with 3 bolts. You will also need to remove the belt cover to get to the plug. So simple and saves you hundreds off repair man prices.

Removed the control panel back plate cover. Removed the 3 screws that held the water control valve in place. I then unplugged each solenoid one at a time and plugged it into the new control valve. Once all wires were transferred, I pulled the old valve up and put the new valve on. Then reinstalled the screws that held it down and reinstalled the cover plate. Very simple job !

Tilt washer back.
Remove belt gaurd.
Remove belt.
Remove pulley.
Remove clutch and shifter.
Install in reverse order

The replacement part looked absolutely nothing like the defective part. The old part was easily accessible and was easily unplugged from the wiring harness. I assume when the new part came, I would just plug it into the wiring harness, snap some of the trim pieces in place and be done. 5 minutes. But no. The replacement part was completely different and came with its own wiring harness and length
of wire which had to be installed. The installation of the wiring harness was extremely complicated which involved popping off the control panel of the washer, prying up the top and disconnecting some other pieces to complete the install. There should have been a clear warning on the replacement part, that it was completely different and likely too difficult for a non-professional repair man.

Put washer on it side. Removed shield belt and pulley from motor.
Unplugged and unsnapped speed sensor and replaced with new one . Washer spinning like it should. Problem solved

part select help

I removed the back panel at he top of the washer, then remover the two screws that hold the top control panel in place. Then I removed the three screws that held the water valve in place. I removed the valve from the water ports and then disconnected the four electrical connectors. I plugged in the new valve and plugged the valve back into the water ports. Reinstalled the screws, control panel and the back panel. Very easy repair, anyone could do it!

Use putty knife to unlock top panel from base. Remove 2 bolts from back of washer holding control section. Don't take completely off. 2 bolts needs to be removed to unsecure top from base. Lastly 2 screws hold lid in place. Remove lid. Slide top panel to left just to access lid lock. Unplug sensor. 1 screw and tabs hold lock in place. Watch position coming out so you don't get confused putting new lock in. Squeeze tabs, replace screw. plug in sensor. Reverse procedure to put top section back together.

Replaced the agitator.
Very difficult to remove..Have to apply force and pull.
Theres no bolt inside if the fabric softener part that needed to be adjusted...

Upper portion of auger spins on bottom portion so they need to be locked together with a screwdriver to twist off counter clockwise. Good instructions here: https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Qr4GzTJBho0&vl=en. Someone needs to hold the tub while another uses the strap wrench to turn the auger counter clockwise. Should pop off with a bit of force. New one pops on easy.

You will need to shut off the water, unplug the washer, disconnect the water lines, disconnect and drain the drain line, tip the washer either at an angle or on its side, remove motor cover, disconnect drain pump electrical cable, remove drain pump, install new drain pump, reconnect drain pump electrical cable, reconnect drain line and water supplies, turn water back on and test the washer.

Note: I thought the drain pump was bad for 2 reasons. 1 was the washer had previously started to smell, indicating the washer might not be fully draining. 2 was that the washer would agitate (meaning motor seemed fine) but when it would normally start draining before spinning, the washer would do nothing (could hear a faint hum coming from the washer).

year and a half old unit.
The Mode selector failed to properly engage the gears and gears were grinding.
O moved dryer out of area. And then turned off water, disconnected the hoses from wall. Placed hoses including drain hose into 5-gallon bucket and clamped so they would stay. I then moved washer away from wall about 2'. Then tipped it back against wall. Used 2x4 to keep it there as a support. (Doing this allowed me to keep it in the area and not dump water on floor. Then removed the gear guard, gears and mode selector. Reinstalled all parts and packed gears with synthetic grease made for plastic. It is now working like new. Parts were exact match. Took 30 minutes. Also cleaned the dryer vet line while I had it apart.

I watch a YouTube video with the same problem and follow each step

The most important item I learned is the original lid switch is no longer available. It has been replaced with the entire Lid Switch Assembly. I read the new switch is magnetic versus the old which was mechanical. The kit comes with everything you will need (switch, wiring harness, lid lock bezel and instructions). I found the written instructions to not be the easiest to follow. However, I found someone had done a YouTube video on the replacement which made the repair easy (under 15 minutes). Although I did the repair by myself, a second person would be handy to hold the washer cover and controls while changing the wiring harness. When testing the new switch, remember to test during the Spin cycle.