GTH18GCDDRBB General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

I removed one screw to loosen the cardboard panel that covered the old valve and one screw to remove the valve assembly. I disconnected the two wiring connections and unscrewed the two water line connections. Replacement was really easy since the bracket was the same as the old valve. The down stream water connection was different for the new (push in) than the old (threaded) but I cut the old threaded connector off and figured out that the new push in connection was solid (directions would have really helped here) Reconnected the inlet tubing and electrical wires and replace the panel and it was done.

just unscrewed the 3 screws, attached the rounded plug that came with the unit and screwed back only 2 screws. ice magic in about a couple of hours

Had to take out everything on the shelf & pull out the vegetable draws, then proceeded to clean it all. Had to take out the glass inset in the cover & wash that. After that I just slid it in - piece of cake! The hardest part was to get the plastic cover off the new part!

By the way - I'm 87 yrs old.

I removed the fan housing , this was the hardest part , this took loosining two screws and snapping the housing loose , and there it was , settin there Idle and the coils were all ice , I let the coils thaw while I unscrewed the fan mount from the back wall of the freezer , then pulled the fan and mount out far enough to snap the wire connector loose, then I removed the two screws that hold the motor to the mount , the new fan motor comes without the blade so the blade is removed by pulling fairly had on the center off the shaft , the old motor is taken out of the mount , the new one replaces it perfectly , then the screws are replaced and tightenen , then the blade is pushed back on the shaft , the motor and mount are placed back on the back wall of the freezer department and screwed in place , the wires connected , then the housing is snapped back in place and the screws tightened , turn the dial to cool or number 2 or 3 and " bingo " it,s just like new , I can thank part select for speedy service and delivery

While the switch did last for 9 years, the design is poor due to the failure mode. The failure should be to fail off or not able to turn on the lights which would be inconvenient but would not warm the refrigerator contents. Arcing at the contacts eventually caused the switch to "weld" closed. It is not obvious that this is occurring so it took some time to recognize why the temp inside the ref was high while the freezer was OK. Replacing the switch was easy once it was recognized as the problem. All that was required to replace the switch was to remove the screws holding a fiber cover and then pulling off the aluminum cap which covered the switches. Unplug the switch an squeeze the keeper on the switch to release it and pull down. Pop the replacement switch in place and plug the wires harness back in. All in all it took much less time to replace than it has to write this up. T Pope

It has been my experience that these motors sometimes die when the refrigerator is overfilled and motor strains to keep refrigerator cold. And this motor is used in several models of refrigerators. That said, sometimes the hook-up is slightly different between other units. The available video is good, but like I said, circumstances will be slightly different between various models.

After cleaning out freezer (plug disconnected first), start to remove outer plastic covers. If you want to keep track of the different steps, you can take pictures with your cellphone. And if there are any connecting wire attachments you think you might not remember, again, you can take a picture, or label with tape (colored tape, or by writing on the tape). And for keeping track of the different-size screws, I place them in a muffin tin, keeping an order of left to right and top to bottom in the tin. When removing Styrofoam blocks in bottom center, make sure you remove any remaining ice underneath in the hole so refrigerator can "breathe". Freezer air is moved below to refrigerator compartment, so a blocked vent hole will strain refrigerator as it tries to maintain its temperature setting and can be the cause of your failed motor.

After replacing motor onto bracket with grommets and blade, don't completely tighten. Position plastic cover with hole opening over motor and blade assembly. Twirl motor blade to see if there is any interference with cover. If not, take away cover and tighten motor on bracket. If there is any rubbing, adjust motor/blade assembly accordingly before tightening in place. Putting everything back together is in reverse order.

My husband did the repair, and even though our refrigerator is roughly 20+ years old, he was able to adapt it to work in all the right spots and we now have ice cubes! I'm very happy we did not have to spend $2000 on a comparable refrigerator.

Unplugged the appliance for safety. Removed two 1/4" screws that held the assembly in place. Carefully removed the wire guard that retains the glass shield. Unscrewed old light bulb and replaced with new part. Reversed the steps after cleaning glass cover.

The existing light switch was very hard to remove. I ended up having to grab it with a pair of pliers and pull it out. Once it was out, it was very easy to put in the replacement and it seems to be working fine.

Not only was finding the part rediculously easy for a person who has never done this type of thing...the repair was a sinch!! I will always return to this company for help with home equipment repairs. I saved so much money doing it this way. :) thanks guys!

First I replaced the double valve because the ice maker was not filling with water. It still did not work. Then I replaced the ice maker itself. This worked and was relatively easy to replace. I had to use the water fill "slide" from the old ice maker. The new one was too narrow and it leaked water into the freezer.

1. Disconnected 120 VAC power supply from refrigerator. 2. Removed 2 philip screws from horizonal panel containing the thermostat. (Panel is in refrigerator section). 3. Removed plug module from panel which freed the panel which allowed me to remove panel to do repair. 4. Removed wires from thermostat (cold control), and mechanically removed thermostat from panel and installed new cold control (thermostat). Replaced wires on control. 5. Replaced panel and reinstalled 2 philips screws. 6. time to repair about 15 minutes.

I typed replacement fridge parts in google. Parts select.com came up. I found my fridge model # on the fridge and typed it in. A similar model # came up and I looked at the parts diagram. I determined what the piece was. I checked a couple other similar fridge model #'s to see if the part was the same. It was. Parts select made it so easy! I ordered the part on Monday in the afternoon... used regular shipping and had it in my hands by 9 am on Wednesday. I opened my fridge took out the collapsed bottom shelf (courtesy of my forever climbing 3 year old!) Installed the old glass and drawers in the new tray and Voila! as good as new! This couldn't of been a better experience from beginning to end,

easy as 1.2.3 remove and replace before even thinking. just to let you know i also do this for a living but it is one of the most difficult thing when you have to stop and fix your own

Turned off power, removed cover from Ice maker, checked resistance across thermostat for zero (read open), all other switches read proper value (when activated). Ordered and received thermostat. Removed Ice Maker from freezer, removed two screws holding ice tray to Control Assembly. Removed Thermostat and replaced with new one. Applied Silicone Sealant to face of Thermostat for adhesion to ice tray when assembled. Remounted Ice Tray to Control Assembly and remounted in freezer. Works Great...