Your washer uses 4 tub dampening straps. It is recommended to replace all 4 at the same time. They keep the tub in the center of the cabinet and are sold individually.
The main tub seal is located between the transmission and the outer tub. It's the primary water seal in the outer tub for the transmission-shaft. This seal is difficult to replace and should probably ...
This tub bearing goes in your washing machine. You will find it on the bottom of the outer tub, where the transmission goes through the tub. If you hear metal on metal when the washer is spinning, you...
This part is a replacement fabric softener dispenser for your washer. If your washer will not dispense fabric softener or detergent, or will not agitate, you may need to replace the dispenser. When it...
This is a water pressure switch hose, also known as the air dome tube, for your washer. It is made of clear plastic and is sold individually. The hose transports water to your water pressure switch, s...
$18.42
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Questions And Answers for GTAN4250D1WW
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Jason
September 30, 2023
Machine seems to pause on a fill cycle after agitating. I assume it needs fill valve or control board?
For model number GTAN4250D1WW
Hi Jason, thank you for reaching out. Based on the description you have provided, it seems that there is an issue with the water inlet valve, part number PS3652834. You may need to replace it to fix the issue. We hope this information helps!
10 year old washer that do not respond to control panel. It only want to drain but not spin. Does not mater if light indicates wash cycle the discharge pump keep pumping but no spinning.
For model number GTAN4250D1WW
Hello Raymond, thank you for getting in touch. Based on the description that you have provided, we would recommend replacing the control board, part number PS8757105, to fix the issue. We hope this solves your problem!
After removing frt panel which prys off I checked for anything obvious like a loose belt. Then I jiggled the magnet switch located on the inside of the loading cover. I saw the machine start agitating the it stopped again when I stopped touching it. I ordered the new part and spliced it in with the wire crip tool. Now the machine is A ok.
To diagnose, first I unhooked the washer: power, water supply, and drain pipe. I then slid the washer out, laying it on its front. With nutdriver, I unscrewed two screws that held the other end of the drain tube and removed it completely. Then, again with the nutdriver removed 4 screws from the back near the legs, two in between the legs in the middle, and approx. 4 to 6 on the bottom. This let me pull the bottom off partially to access the motor area. (I did did not take the bottom completely off, only about 2/3 off and let it bend over, as it was flexible tin) The belt was broken. After receiving the new belt, I positioned it between the pulley and the motor and between the drum and the big pulley. Then I rotated the big pulley, pulling the belt onto it as I rotated. At the same time, as I rotated, I pulled the other end of the belt on to the little pulley. Once it was on, I would put pressure on it as I turned the pulley, to jump the belt to the appropriate grooves on the little pulley. Note: the replacement belt had been modified, so it had one less groove than the pulley. I would have known this if I had read the insert that came with the belt first! Anyway, this was not a problem, only a design change. Also it was important to start the belt on the inside, so if it slipped, you didnt loose your bite. Total diagnostic, repair, and reassembly time: 30 minutes plus or minus. I had read other online forums that said you had to loosen the motor, etc. And I do know some type of a belt installation tool was offered on line, but I got along fine with my installation method. An extra set of hands would have been helpful, but not necessary.
Simply put hands, one under each side of the agitaror and pulled up. The part snapped off very easily. I then placed the new part in the tub and pressed down. Extremely easy, should have done it sooner!