GT2428PVCW Maytag Refrigerator - Instructions

Reversed removal steps to assemble the new rail.

The main issue is that my supports are NOT held on by screws -- they are behind the fridge wall and can not be removed. So this is my solution (ignore the 'fix kit' -- it is useless and is just this part plus a metal screw. It cost me $20 to find this out). Here is what I did: 1) Cut off the old support with a knife. 2) Get a small toggle bolt (I used 1/8" x 2", < $2 from Home Depot) and thread into new support. 3) Dig around in insulation to make sure there is space for toggle to flip open. 4) Install!!!! Wish I'd thought of this before :-)

This is an easy fix, simply remove and replace. What I was impressed with is that a how to video was provided along with my part. I wish all manufactures would offer this, the video was easy to understand and you had a good view of the operation. Thanks, a job well done.

We tried repairing with a new switch which was very easy to install but it didn't fix the problem.

removed old mount with allen wrench replaced with new mount

I watched the video and thought "I can do this". Made some notes and then proceeded to remove the old switch and replace with the new one. Thank you.

1)pry out the old/defective light rocker switch with a screw driver (flat head) and pull out the cables 2)unplug two connectors at the end of light rocker switch 3) connect new light rocker into two connectors 4)push the wires inside and put back new light rocker switch

I did exactly as the video showed. I popped out the old switch, disconnected the two terminals, connected the new switch and put it back. The light now works! The refrigerator is over 25 years old and the switch works! What a great website this is. Couldn't of done the job without Partselect's help.

I tried to remove the old light switch using a putty knife and a hammer. It was hard to compress the plastic tabs to pull it back through the hole, but all of a sudden, the lights came on. I guess banging on the switch freed-up the contacts. The new switch is now a spare part in case I need it.

After receiving the new part almost immediately,using two screw drivers, removed the broken switch from the plastic frame. Be careful not to scratch or otherwise tear the plastic...very pliable. Since the original switch was factory installed and the wires were packed in fiberglass insulation, the switch came out but the wires and clips were still in place and could not reach the new switch. It was necessary to pull them down with bent long nose pliers...used a lot of "pull" but the wires held up.Connected the switch, turned the power on and there was light! Reports from other users really took the uncertainty out of the task.

Removed items and defrosted freezer. I then removed metal shelves, ice maker, bottom sliding tray and false bottom, freezer back, and light bulb with wire track. Cut wires to defrost thermostat and spliced in new thermostat. Reassembled shelves, back, etc., in reverse order. Old thermostat tested "open" in hot and cold water with Ohm meter tester.

No instructions with part. Found a picture on line and changed the arm, but it didn't fix the problem. Fairly easy after figured out what needed to be done to get to the part.

Sorry for delay in writing. Part I ordered arrived two days ago and it was exactly what I needed. Knowing that there will be problems even with the smallest job I procrastinated starting. When I did start this morning I foud I had to completely remove the ice maker and disassemble it in order to install the water fill cup bracket. The challenge was reassembling the unit. Not hard for an experienced repairman but a challenge for layman. Everything is thing is back to gether now and power on cooling down the refrigerator. Won't know how successful it was until turn on water and ice is formed. If it works this saved $75 just to get a Sears repairman to come out and tell me what would be needed to fix the refrigerator and $1,000 if I had to buy a new refrigerator. Extremely satisfied with service I received. Thank you.

First I called my friend Robert in Kissimmee, Fl to have an idea regarding the problem because I had never serviced a fridge before. Then he suggested that I check with PartSelect on the Web. Then PartSelect repair videos showed me everything. I followed step-by-step but the problem persisted. I finally realized that the airflow conduit between the freezer and the fridge was clogged with ice. I then proceeded to remove the ice underneath the coil on the aluminum cover and Bingo. The problem was in fact the ice. Well, I only spent $33 dollars for the non-necessary Bimetal Defrost Thermostat. I learned a great deal from that repair.

Pulled up part select video on u-tube. Followed instructions on dissambly of top freezer and found condensor freezing up blocking air from refrigerator. Checked timer to make sure it was good. Next checked continuity on heater to make sure it was good. Last checked bi-metal thermostat for continuity while cold. Found Bi-metal part to be defective (also rubber in top of was popped up which is a sign of a bad part). Simply ordered new part from Part Select, received in 2 days and replaced Bi-metal and melted ice with hair dryer and reassembled freezer. While waiting on part you can still use refrigerator by melting ice so air can get to refrigerator. I put a towel in bottom of freezer to catch water. Greg W. in Ga.