GSS23GGKKCWW General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

The repair did not go exactly the way it was described in the YouTube video, but basically it was similar. After unplugging the power cord, emptying the freezer, removing the shelves and the ice reservoir, I removed the ice maker assembly by unscrewing a Philips head screw and unplugging the power connector. The connector had little retaining tabs on each side that I pried open with a straight blade screwdriver. Then the ice maker lifted right out. Next I removed one screw holding the auger motor assembly, unplugged the power connector, and lifted out the assembly. This where things got difficult. After flailing around a bit, I removed the panel on the back wall of the freezer below the evaporator fan assembly, exposing the evaporator coil. I saw that the fan assembly was attached with two screws at the top and two screws at the bottom. The top screws were easily removed, but when I removed the bottom screws, which were situated in very tight quarters, I DROPPED BOTH SCREWS DOWN BEHIND THE EVAPORATOR COIL. Be prepared with a magnetic nutdriver so this doesn't happen to you. I could not retrieve the lost screws, but fortunately it appears that the top screws hold the assembly securely enough. The assembly was loose, but it was still attached by a power cord that I could not disconnect. I removed the tracks on the side walls for the ice bucket, and then I could maneuver the fan motor assembly just enough that I could reach over the top of it, grab and pull off the old fan blade, and slide the new fan blade onto the shaft. Reassembly was straightforward, replacing each part (except two lost screws) in reverse order to disassembly. After getting everything put back in and plugging in the power cord, I was amazed at how quiet it ran.

Very easy novice could do

1. Emptied the crisper pan,
2. Removed it from the refrigerator,
3. Flipped it upside down,
4. Removed the old one by pulling it off,
5. Replaced it with the new OEM part. and
6. Reversed the process.

Great Service! Received the part the NEXT DAY!

We originally called a service technician. He came the next day and said the mother board was no good. He order a new one and replaced it a week later. Total part & labor cost: $185.00 (Remember we're without a working refrigerator the whole time the part is on order)
Two days later the freezer is doing the same thing. We call the tech again and he seems confused and says it could be the heating element, he'll order one at no charge and replace it for us free. He never comes back with the part and does not answer our 2 dozen phone calls. I checked the element myself and saw that the tube had been scorched, like a burnt out light bulb. Searched for parts on internet and found this great site. "Partselect.com"
REPAIR:
Refrigerator had been unplugged for a few days to defrost ice build up in freezer. First, I removed the shelves from freezer compartment, removed the back panel and removed screws holding heater element in place, I unplugged the two electrical leads and plugged in new part. AS EASY AS THAT !!!!! I reinstalled the screws to hold the element, installed the back panel and replaced the freezer shelves. I plugged the refrigerator back in and within hours the freezer started making ice again. It's been about 3 weeks and we have not had a problem since.
Fantastic Service and instructions and Inexpensive !!!! I will use this site again, if needed, and will recommemd to anyone who needs parts.

removed 2 - 1/4" screws and 2 phillip screws to take off the evap cover, then 2 phillip srews to take out the defrost heater assembly, replaced and put everything back together. no problem.
I GOT THE PART SO FAST THAT I WAS SURPRISED TO SEE IT THERE!

I was able to snap the new piece right in

Removed broken switch with plastic scraper (press tension latch on bottom), moved two wire terminals to the new switch and pressed the new switch into the hole.

Opened package and just snapped in front insert. Took longer to open package than it took to replace broken insert.

1 opened door 2. pryed cover off from cieling 3.cut and stripped wires on 4. sodered wires from old wires to new sensor. 5 insulated conection.6 put cover back on. This did not fix the problem it was the control moduel.

Super easy. Hardest part was popping the plastic covers off without breaking them. I had to use a butter knife to get under it & lift it just enough
to grab it & pull easy until it turned loose.

Very easy repair, 3 screws to remove motor assembly and 3 screws/1 nut to remove motor from housing. Reverse order to replace. VERY EASY repair!

I bought the GE Refrigerator about 4 years ago for about $1500. The defrost Heater failed about one year ago. Then I called local repair guy, he replaced the Defrost Heater and charged me about $250. Now it happened again. I think we should try it to fix it by myself. I found the parts from partselect.com, it costs me $50 with 2-3 days shipping. After it replaced, it works fine again.

Note: Symtom: cannot make cool air, Frozen area with frost on the wall. Regeriator "leaking water" on floor since iced food started to melt...

Solution: open the cover of the wall inside of frozen zone, use hot water to defrost it gradually. removed the failed Defrost Heater and replaced it with new one.

Note: after you defrost the area inside of the wall, your refrigerator will work normally without the Defrost heater without any issue about week while you are waiting for the parts coming.

ordered replacement part with the understanding that tubing to the water valve could be easily removed. The tubes were carefully removed with some difficulty, and when the new tubes were inserted one leaked. The tube seat was not snug. Therefore a new water valve was purchased. The installation was successful within about 20 minutes. If I were to do the job again, both the water resevoir and valve would be ordered together.

Simply take off the back panel. Remove the old run capacitor which is attached to the compressor by a white part. It pulls right off. You will have to unplug two wires. I took a pic to ensure I plugged the wires back up the correct way. Then I attached the new capacitor to the white part and put on the sleeve that was included, plugged it back into the compressor and zip tied the excess part of the sleeve. Once done plug fridge back up (always unplug electric devices when doing maintenance) to check before replacing back panel. It may take a few minutes before it kicks on.

Removed the lower 2 drawers, lower front grill, rear lower compressor cover. Removed the 2 water lines from the quick connects and screws from the water tank. Pulled lines through the hole in the right rear of the refrigerator and removed tank. Then reversed steps to install new tank. The upper plastic tank cover has 2 buttons on top that are really screws with a plastic cap, these are easily removed with pliers.