GSD2000J20CC General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

I Just Open Door And Put Fill Cap In And Turn That It

A no brainer, replaced old fill cap with new fill cap. Delighted I was able to order the part, website is user friendly.

Replace both micro switches.

Nut driver and philips screwdriver.

after I let the unit rest on its side to expose the bottom part, I took a picture just in case for reference; I marked all electrical connections, so it would go to right place into the new unit; removed the old pump unit by loosening the rubber clamps, for the inlet and outlet; detached the support sling for the motor unit; installed the new pump unit; it fits like a charm and it was wonderful; I had some bad experiences of replacement parts from other suppliers, on many things that I fix , that won't really fit like the original, but this one fits like a charm; I made my first test run with just water with out the detergent and after one cycle I used the necessary dishwasher detergent and it works just like brand new; Thank you, PartSelect, I will be ordering any of my part needs from you. - G.V.

Checked availability of replacement machine and replacement parts online..in this process, I ran across a similar story by someone who fixed similar problem on a similar machine. Before removing the fill valve, I tried to confirm that it was defective my reading solenoid coil continuity. It looked ok so I could not use that info to confirm a bad fill valve, although that possibility was not eliminated. So I ordered a replacement fill valve, removed existing fill valve and took a long position on paper plates. On delivery of the valve, I found that its mounting bracket (which forms a part of the supply pressure boundary) had been redesigned to conform to a year-2000 redesign of the machine. Valve instructions allowed for this and provide for retention of mounting bracket from old valve for use on new valve. Instructions indicated the o ring from new valve (vs old) should be used in attaching the old bracket. I found that the o ring groove in the new valve was so deep that o-ring compression on reassembly was prevented. I went ahead and put together with new o-ring. When turned on supply pressure, it began leaking immediately, so I shut down, removed valve again. During this (2nd) reassembly, I stacked both o rings in same groove in order to get compression at all. Reinstalled valve w/ both o rings....no leaks and it works. I think valve design should be reviewed and depth of o ring groove reduced so only one o ring is needed.

Not really difficult to do. First remove the washer from the counter and flip it over. Carefully determine the correct drawing in the instructions which matches your machine. Follow insructions and double check everything. Took about an hour - and I saved about $350.00 by fixing it myself rather than buying a new one!

Just remove the lower basket from the machine and pull the old wheels off. Then snap on the new wheels on the pegs. The old style wheels snap in place without much force. The new wheels take much more force to install and lock onto the basket which keeps them from coming off when the basket is heavily loaded.

I measured the diameter of the working wheels from the existing ones, and located the parts I needed from the website. I order two packages, each containing the wheels and axles for the rack.
When delivered, I snapped the wheels onto the delivered axles. Then, I snapped the axels unto the bottom rack, at the correct place. I used a large pliers for leverage because the axel was a bit tight to just simply snap on.
The middle wheels are located just behind the front wheels, thereby offering support when the botton rack is pulled forward for loading. Likewise, they offer support when the rack is pushed back in place.

Opened package, removed cap and screwed it in place.

Identified solinoid responsible for the operation of the drain flapper valve had become damaged, possibly due to its coil shorting and overheating, the inside plastic insulation then melted and came up through the solinoid pin hole. I removed the tension spring holding the flapper drain valve shut, removed the eclip holding the white phenelic arm connected to the tension spring, removed the two screws mounting the solinoid assy. I threw out the bad solinoid. I then proceeded to install the replacement solinoid in reverse order of removal. The end. Works like a champ ! Thank you for your quick shipping response time. My wife is now once again happy. As you know, if my wife isnt happy, I sure wont be happy. :)

Basically, I told my girlfriend, hey, if you are board, this box has the parts to fix the dishwasher in it. When I got home from work, I had to connect one wire, and tighten a couple of screws. The kit has great, easy to follow directions. Thanks!!

The most difficult part was removing the old wheels. The plastic coating on the rack had come off, leaving the metal exposed. The wheels had rusted on - that's why they wouldn't roll. Once we got them off with pliers, hammer, screwdriver and basically everything in the tool chest, we were home free. Installing the new wheels and axles was easy.

Turn water off and unplug unit first. I remove the 2 retaining screws under counter, pulled out dishwasher. I laid it on it's side to get to pump, loosen up Hose clamps on inlet and outlet ports on pump. You may need a towel or rags to soak up a small amount of water from hoses and old pump. Removed the two hoses on the side, note the lowest one is the drain hose. Un plug all wire connections and loosen support bracket. Removed old pump and installed new one in reverse order. I had to use the 90* adapter hose and the white adapter for my drain hose.The kit contains all adapters and it all fits perfect. Reinstalled and tested unit worked great!!!

I could not pull it out to get the new one in so I used a dremmel. Then pressed in the new one.

Thanks for your help.