GSA20IBPDFWW General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

take the metal cover off the defrost thermostat is on top of the coil take the thermostat off from the coil cut the two wires take the wire and strip the ends off take the new thermostat the wires are color coded wire them together put the thermostat back on coil your done real easy

WE (WIFE) took out the old parts an replaced with new one ..Be careful to get the placement of the Grommet or they "POP" out on you. fast ship on the parts too.

Per vidios

This was generally an easy fix. The work was in such a confined area of our side by side and my husbands shoulders are broad so that was a little more challenging but overall a quick, easy and cheap repair doing it ourselves without having to call a appliance repairman.

Took out freezer rack took off the back panel also light bulb found the DEFROST THERMOSTAT cut the 2 wires remove the thermostat strip the wires on the new thermostat splice the to wires together with wire nut wrapped wire nuts with electrical tape put new thermostat back were the old came off of put panels back in place also the racks and bulb plunged in the power and guess what it works like a Champ with in 1 hour making ice and going through defrost cycle nice Thank You Guys for your video and the how to do Thanks Ken

I followed your video and completely dismantled the refrigerator evaporator motor, fan, brackets, and grommet, I completely cleaned the refrigerator including the cooling coils. I then ordered the evaporator motor ,fan, grommets, lid bumper, and brackets. The order would take a week to arrive. In the meantime I cleaned and reassembled all the old parts, waiting for the new ones to come. Guess what! The refrigerator was quiet as a mouse. I really did not need the new parts, but I kept them anyway just for good luck. Not bad for a refrigerator that's twenty four years old.

After turning off power and unthawing back cover so I could remove it. Then I had remove all of the ice from the coils with a hair dryer. After everything was unthawed I removed the temperature sensor from the coil tubing and cut the wires. I skinned the wires on the new sensor and crimped a butt splice on each wire. I skinned each wire in the freezer then crimped butt splices to each wire. After taping the connections with black tape I reinstalled the back cover and turned on the power. So far it has been two weeks and there Is no frost and the refridgerator is working fine.

Removed ice bucket, and unplugged ice maker. Removed light cover. Removed ice maker. Pulled fan blades straight up and removed. Pushed new blades on to motor shaft. Fairly easy .

remove screws holding old handles and replace with new

As per the video , I unplugged the appliance and defrosted the freezer . Then removed the shelves and back from the freezer. Located and removed the old parts and installed the new ones which took about 20 minutes. Reassembled the appliance, plugged it in and it was cold within a few hours. Thanks for all the help

Remove one nut top of ice box cut wire and replace temperature sensor in freezer part remove two nuts on back panel and cut wire and add temperature sensor then remove defrost thermostat cut orange and pink wire and twist together new sensor and tape up and one more temperature sensor add bottom of freezer cut and replace and tape up all wire and replace back cover simple easy job

Extremely easy repair, the hardest part was getting the old switch out. I used a pair of needle nose pliers to squeeze the tabs in and it came right out.

put the gratefruit knife behind the old switch pooped it out pluged the new one in piece of cake 5min.even vacumed the dust off the coil

Remove the top cover above the door by lifting it slightly and pulling forward. I used a mirror to make sure that there was nothing in the way of accessing the switch from above. I used a blade screwdriver to press against the switch retainer on the topside, while GENTLY prying from below with another blade screwdriver to get the switch dislodged. Once the retainer was past the opening, I wiggled the switch downward and then rotated it to the left when the rounded top right edge of the switch was visible. This allowed the wiring to the connector to pass thru the hole. I pushed the wiring from the top and pulled from below to get the connector below the opening for the switch. I then unplugged the switch, plugged in the new switch and reversed the removal process feeding the connector thru first then rotating the switch to the right to get the rounded edge of the switch thru the opening, then pressed the switch up into the opening until it snapped into place. Total time less than 10 minutes.

with a jewelry screwdriver I pried the lock tab in and pulled switch down carefully, the hardest part was that the power wire connector was stuck on good but the pliers and the jewelry screwdriver was its match for a bout 5 minute for one connection a simple pull off prong connection. After the wire connected back to switch it popped back in SNAPP