GS2727EED1 Maytag Refrigerator - Instructions

Located the filter, removed the filter, installed the new one, reset the filter light on the front of the water discharge, and all is good.

All work was done by hand. I removed the cover plate, unscrewed the existing water filter and screwed in the new one. I returned the cover plate to its original position and bled the air out of the line by running the water dispenser for a few minutes. It could no have been easier.

Popped out broken switch with blunt flat edged instrument. Disconnected switch from unit . Plugged new piece in and reinserted into side panel of refrigerator. Very easy.

I did not do the repair yet, there is no schematic on how to route the hose; also no description of how to do the routing/connections.

Just plugged it in

Removed 6 screws to get at broken part. Had to remember the disassembly sequence to properly reassemble. The whole process was relatively simple. I saved about $125 which would have been the cost of a repairman coming to the house.

Removed old ejector arm and installed new part.

Followed included instructions. Thank you.

Removed all screws on back and 4 on front. That part is easy IF you have a Torx of the right size. Slip out the ice bin a bit and replace the drive ring. Reassembly is a bit harder since some internal shift can occur -- rotate or tilt the whole assembly to get two -- I think -- screws started. No need to over tighten screws; snug is good enough.

The switch fix but did not fix the problem. I assumed the wires go on the same way as on the old switch. Is it possible if one light Burns out, the other will not work either?

I switched the ring and still had the same problem. What caused the Drive ring to crack was the Ice maker drive was cracked also, when it filled with water it would tip. The ice was not freezing completely and would cause the ice to build up and the auger was froze with ice or a big piece of ice would jam it. So I replaced the Ice Tray, it is working like new. I have to buy another ice tray as inventory, although I know inventory is bad but I never agreed with that theory.

Everything went as planned except the cold temperature (freezer door switch located inside freezer) made deflection of the switch locking tab difficult to remove. Letting the switch warm up was not an option.

Very easy to install. Just snap in and done.

Removed the screws that held the main ice bin and slid back the bin to leave space behind the auger to remove the broken ring. Replaced with new ring and replaced screws to hold ice bin back in place.

The plastic fill cup part is also used to hold one end of the wire “one/off” switch that is manually activated or activated when the ice tray is full. This wire piece fell out because one end, that is part of the plastic fill cup, broke off. The wire switch was fine.

The video demos show you exactly what to do. The repair man showed me a trick to speed up the testing process. The trick is to insert a wire jumper cable to actuate the ice maker and make it rotate. But this isn’t necessary.

Hardest part of this fix is emptying the freezer (bottom with a slide out door) and removing the door.

Why this part is so expensive is beyond me. But I’m happy it was available for a 24yo fridge that still works!!