GS2726CEDB Maytag Refrigerator - Instructions

Popped the old one out with a kitchen knife and popped the new one back in. It tool less than 15 seconds!!

I pried the old one out with a screw driver and pushed the new one in. I expected instructions in the box it came in but there were none.

To replace the broken drive coupling on the motor end of the auger requires sliding the ice bin out of the freezer section of the refrigerator. Remove the ice cubes and let it thaw out for a few minutes. Remove five screws holding the front face on the ice bin to remove the ice auger. slip the new drive coupling over the end of the auger. reassemble and replace the face plate with the five screws. Slide the ice bin back in the freezer. Less than fifteen minutes it was finished.

Please bear in mind I am 65 years old & it was harder to get up & down off the floor then to change the switch. Was very easy - watched video, unplugged unit. I used the putty knife at the right front corner to work loose, when it came loose had to loose the left side a little. The unit pulled out easily. detached the wired that had a single plug with 2 prongs on it. Attached the plug, pushed new switch into place. There was no way you could place wires on wrong prong. When done, plugged refrigerator back in & checked if working. I CAN SEE THE LIGHT and the food in the freezer now. Thank you for making an easy repair.

Had to remove the ice-maker (also easier than trying to work inside the freezer letting all the cold air out). A few mounting screws and an electrical connection in the back. After it was out you will need to remove the cover (not the superficial cover that just pries off) where the gear is behind it, just far enough so you can get the mounting tabs on the ice-stripper in. In order to to move this cover out, after removing the screws (the obvious), you'll need needle nose pliers to ever so slightly squeeze the plastic clips together that hold the plastic movable bracket and the metal ice level arm/switch, so it will pop out. Once you have room to put the ice stripper in, it should just all snap back together, then proceed in reverse to put it all back together.

Called a serviceman. The Air return cover is NOT the cover we replaced. Ours is 3/4 of the way down on the freezer side of fridge. Put a thermometer inside, to monitor it.

I had several times tried to get the old switch out but with no success. Ordered the "repair kit" and followed directions for removing old switch (there is a plastic spring clip on one side). Easy to unplug the old switch, plug the leads into the new one, snap the new one into place. Took about 5 minutes total--piece of cake. I wish I'd thought to try this years ago when the old switch began to fail.

Easy disassemble removing screws to separate front of ice bin.Be sure to note how metal rod is attached to rear of ice bin. Installed drive ring and reattached face (front) of ice bin in about 15 minutes.

Problem caused by ice cubes falling out of ice bin and collecting at rear and interfering with ice dispenser drive. Broke plactic drive ring. Pull down 2 clips at front bottom of ice bin. Pull ice bin out. Dump ice cubes. Remove 8 star drive screws to allow case to move far enough to clear broken drive ring. Replace drive ring. Reinstall and tighten 8 screws. Install ice bin. Correct loose right side ice cube retainer board to prevent cubes from falling out of ice bin.

I have never before seen a bulb with the filament intact not light. If the bulb's filament seems intact, screw the bulb into a known working lamp and see if it lights. When screwing it back into the socket in the fridge, it takes a bit of extra effort to fully seat (until it does, it won't light!). For replacing the switch, I unplugged the unit, used a paint scraper and worked it under the switch bezel from the right side. A bit of moxie, and the switch came out. The replacement switch had a different spade contact spacing than the original. I used a pair of scissors to cut the rubber bridge between the two switch wire connectors so I could connect to the new switch. In the end, it turned out to be the bulb. NOTE: The Model TC18KL is _not_ listed! What I finally found that the number "P7803211WL" on the sticker is actually a manufacturing code. Found this out by searching, and Sears' part search came up with matches.

I had ordered some other parts for something entirely different off your website and service was great. So after almost ten years of a dark refrigerator, because of a defective switch, I decided to see if you had the part to fix it... You did and the part got here in 3 days. I had a working light switch and all the light in the world where my husband needed it most (in the fridge). It took me at the most ten minutes to replace the part. All is well now and I have a happy husband who can find the leftovers just fine. Thanks for your great service!

Simply stick a putty knife between the switch and refrig wall. Pop out old swith, remove both wires by pulling off switch by terminals. Throw switch out. Put wires on new switch and push into slot and all done. Nothing to it! Took me 5 minutes if th

After years of using a flash light to check the contents of my refrigerator, I decided to try to fix the problem myself. Replacing the light switch was very easy. The directions were straight forward and I'm sorry I waited so long to tackle the problem.

with a mirror to see the small hole on the front side of the icemaker.... very simple, took 1 minute

Pried out the old switch with small screwdriver, popped in the new one and tah-dah!! ..the light came on. While I was at it, I cleaned out the freezer :). I cannot begin to imagine what a repairman would have charged for this.