GS24C8C3EV Maytag Refrigerator - Instructions

1)pry out the old/defective light rocker switch with a screw driver (flat head) and pull out the cables 2)unplug two connectors at the end of light rocker switch 3) connect new light rocker into two connectors 4)push the wires inside and put back new light rocker switch

I did exactly as the video showed. I popped out the old switch, disconnected the two terminals, connected the new switch and put it back. The light now works! The refrigerator is over 25 years old and the switch works! What a great website this is. Couldn't of done the job without Partselect's help.

Simply stick a putty knife between the switch and refrig wall. Pop out old swith, remove both wires by pulling off switch by terminals. Throw switch out. Put wires on new switch and push into slot and all done. Nothing to it! Took me 5 minutes if th

I had ordered some other parts for something entirely different off your website and service was great. So after almost ten years of a dark refrigerator, because of a defective switch, I decided to see if you had the part to fix it... You did and the part got here in 3 days. I had a working light switch and all the light in the world where my husband needed it most (in the fridge). It took me at the most ten minutes to replace the part. All is well now and I have a happy husband who can find the leftovers just fine. Thanks for your great service!

with a mirror to see the small hole on the front side of the icemaker.... very simple, took 1 minute

I have never before seen a bulb with the filament intact not light. If the bulb's filament seems intact, screw the bulb into a known working lamp and see if it lights. When screwing it back into the socket in the fridge, it takes a bit of extra effort to fully seat (until it does, it won't light!). For replacing the switch, I unplugged the unit, used a paint scraper and worked it under the switch bezel from the right side. A bit of moxie, and the switch came out. The replacement switch had a different spade contact spacing than the original. I used a pair of scissors to cut the rubber bridge between the two switch wire connectors so I could connect to the new switch. In the end, it turned out to be the bulb. NOTE: The Model TC18KL is _not_ listed! What I finally found that the number "P7803211WL" on the sticker is actually a manufacturing code. Found this out by searching, and Sears' part search came up with matches.

Unloading the freezer and removing the back panel were the most time consuming aspect of this repair. Many models only have 4 screws, but this one has 9, and being a side by side it was a tight fit to reach them. Once defrosted we tested the thermostat, found it "dead", and ordered a new one. The part came within 3 business days. Installing it took minutes, since we had not permanently screwed in the back panel again. We didn't want to reload everything until we knew things worked properly, so we didn't put everything back right away. We thought we had further problems as the freezer got really cold but the frig still didn't get down to temp. Turns out we just needed to reinstall the fan shield which we'd taken off along with other parts to access and check the vents. The fan shield must be in place to direct the cold air into the vent to the refrigerator. Duh! It was an oversight that once caught made total sense! Now all works fine on this 20 year old Maytag side by side!

Used a center punch to remove the rivet and then simply re-engaged the shelf hook with a new rivet using a hammer to press the rivet in place (flush with the edge). Re-installed shelf on the refrigerator door. Entire operation took less than 15 minutes.

removed old mount with allen wrench replaced with new mount

I watched the video and thought "I can do this". Made some notes and then proceeded to remove the old switch and replace with the new one. Thank you.

snapped it in

We tried repairing with a new switch which was very easy to install but it didn't fix the problem.

This is an easy fix, simply remove and replace. What I was impressed with is that a how to video was provided along with my part. I wish all manufactures would offer this, the video was easy to understand and you had a good view of the operation. Thanks, a job well done.

The main issue is that my supports are NOT held on by screws -- they are behind the fridge wall and can not be removed. So this is my solution (ignore the 'fix kit' -- it is useless and is just this part plus a metal screw. It cost me $20 to find this out). Here is what I did: 1) Cut off the old support with a knife. 2) Get a small toggle bolt (I used 1/8" x 2", < $2 from Home Depot) and thread into new support. 3) Dig around in insulation to make sure there is space for toggle to flip open. 4) Install!!!! Wish I'd thought of this before :-)

Checked the ice tray and could only find the drive ring had some breaks in the plastic. Actually did not see why this would stop the auger from turning and dispensing ice. However this was the only thing I could find wrong with the unit. I pulled the tray, removed 6 screws (star tip heads) pulled the auger forward and replaced the drive wheel, put the unit back together and its been working fine ever since.