GR458LXMQ0 Whirlpool Range - Instructions

Very easy . Just removed four screws and removed the back cover. Then just unplugged two clips from the element . The repeated all of my steps in reverse . Be sure to unplug the oven before you start on the project .

Turned off the power . Removed two screws in front, lifted top, used a piece of wood to hold up,took off wires to bad element removed old element, replaced with the new one, put wires back on ,closed top,screws to front,on with power and cooked dinner!

Moved the stove out from the wall. Took out the screws from the back and then from the top. I pulled the piece through the back to unplug the clips from the elements. But the wires went back through the openings. So I had to take the back off of the stove to get to the wires to put back through the holes in the stove. Once the clips were back together, I put the back back on the stove. Rebolted the part to the stove and moved it back.

removed drawer below oven, reached under stove and unplugged from outlet, pulled stove out from between cabinets, removed the 8 screws with 5/16 nutdriver from back panel and removed the panel, removed knob from switch , measured length of stem on old switch and compared it to the new switch ( my old switch stems was shorter than the new one so using a pair of pliers I shortened stem per instructions that came with new switch, this was very easy to do ), removed the two screws holding switch to stove and removed the old switch, then I transfered one wire at a time from the old switch to the new one until I had all the wires connected to the new one, used same two screws holding old switch to the stove to mount the new switch to the stove and put knob from old switch onto the new one, installed back panel to stove using the same 8 screws, pushed stove back into place between the cabinets and plugged the stove into the outlet, put drawer back in place below oven door, reset clock and tried out the new switch, so far so good only time well tell if I fixed my problem because it only happens once in awhile

I discoverd my switch box locked with my stove electrical port and stove stopped functioning. Pulled my stove back and saw that the "terminal block" was melted on one side; hence, switch box locked in place to avoid a fire, thank goodness. Looked up part on internet, unplugged stove, took off terminal box, ordered part and replaced. BTW - PART SELECT is awesome; I received my part the very next day!!! :-) Very happy with their service.

I removed the two screws that held the element in place . I think pulled out the element and disconnected the two wires. I put the new element in and connected the two wires. I went to put the element back in and something sparked and burned up the wire. Lesson learned - turn the electricity off first. I had to pay a repair man to come out and replace the wire.

I turned off the breaker (I'm a little nervous even unplugging a 220 plug). I first removed the cover from the back of the stove to get to the wiring/socket. Removed the two wires from the leads - they just pull off by hand but use a needlenose pilers if it is stuck. One is larger so no need to try to remember which one goes where. I removed the glass cover and bulb from inside the oven. I read another post on this site that said there were clips that you had to press to get the old socket out which helped. That part was a little tricky as the insulation around the socket makes it hard to see and the opening is really tight. I finally found the clips and pressed one then got that side out enough to hold the clip back then pressed the other clip and I was able to push it right out. I did not have the strength to press both clips with enough pressure but if you do, that would probably be easier. From inside the oven, I pushed the new socket through the hole - there was a little notch in the opening that had to match up with the socket. I had to push pretty firmly until I felt both clips snap in place. Replaced the wires, turned on the power, screwed in the bulb and cover and I had light!

I cut the ends of the cord and went with direct wire (no round eye clip) to the back side of the terminal block and tightened firmly. It took about 20 Minutes.

real easy one to take care of, when the drawer broke I thought it was more than what it really was, after looking at it and seeing the wheel was gone I ordered the part and it came very quick, drawer is now fixed.

After searching on the internet for a very long time, we were almost ready to order the screws "blind" (no picture) from Sears for almost $10.oo per screw. Then I stumbled onto this website and found exactly what I was looking for, with a detailed description AND a picture!! Not to mention a price that was two thirds less than Sears..for TWO screws. Now the oven door is secure and we are no longer on our search for the right screws.

I ordered the part, which only took a very short time.
Then I repaced the part.
Worked like a charm

switched out latch asy,rear

Checked to see that I had all the parts I needed.
Installed bottom door trim then side trim pieces.
Do not tighten screws. Install door handle with top
trim attached over glass. Tighten screws just snug
all around.

Easy repair with Phillips screw driver and needle nose pliers. 1. Turn off Breakers or unplug range, Open oven door and remove the two screws holding the glass top to the oven frame. 2. Slide glass top forward and remove the two electrical connectors at the rear of the glass top, one on each side. 3. Remove the Phillips screw holding the ground wire from the rear top flange of the glass top. 4. Glass top can now be removed and placed glass side down on a padded flat table top. 5. Take a few pictures of the wiring and brackets for reassembly reference. 6. Remove the 4 wires from the defective heating element with needle nose pliers (note locations for reassembly to the new element) 7. Remove the Phillips screw on the rear side of the bracket holding the defective element. Carefully lift off the bracket. 8. Heating element can now be removed. 9. Remove the locating flanges from the defective element and install on the new element in the same locations. Clean glass if necessary and place new element on glass. 10. Carefully locate the flange tangs into the same holes on the bracket, reference photos or other side for locations. Ensure small element bracket was replaced in mounting slot of large bracket and reattach bracket screw. 11. Replace wires to same locations, remove and lightly pinch connectors if they appear loose, then reassemble. 12. Replace glass top on range, reconnect the two electrical connectors and ground wire, slide forward and replace the two mounting screws. 13. Restore power and check new element for function. Extension wires which came with the new element were not needed in this application. Total repair time about 20 min.

Removed oven door and the 3 screws holding the bottom door trim. Attached new trim piece and reinstalled oven door. Entire job took less than 5 minutes.