GLM25KESBGS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

First tried just replacing flap/spring and mounting. Still did not work so then order a new solenoid with piston that attaches to mounting. That solved problem completely. Corrosion around piston prevented fluid movement of flap. Easy fix after watching video. Saved a bundle I'm sure. Thanks !!!

Removed face plate, which holds the circuit board. Removed the next section be removing the 4 screws that hold it in place. Then removed the old solenoid, and replaced it with the new one.

We had problems with the ice dispenser chute building up frost from condensation freezing due to the flap not closing properly. It would clog up completely and often. I had already replaced the flap and spring years ago but it didn't help much. I Googled this problem for my model and found a video detailing how to check and change the solenoid. Sure enough, the solenoid was completely corroded and crumbled in my hands as I removed it. I ordered the replacement part and made the repair myself. The video was perfect in describing. If your refrigerator is well used as ours is, you'll be shocked by the buildup and cleaning that will be necessary as you make this repair. I ended up taking much more of the dispensing assembly apart so I could clean it with warm soapy bleach water. Be mindful as you disassemble or take photos / videos with your smartphone to help put it back together. It took longer to clean than replace the solenoid. Also, be careful if you have an island or other cabinetry close by. If you have to pull the refrigerator out to unplug it, the handles can chip granite edges or the top corners can scratch wood work. We have cherry cabinets that surround ours. I chipped the edge of the granite when I pulled it out and I scratched the wood as I pushed it back in place. Minor repairs but can save you some frustration. Good luck!

Unplugged the freezer. Then I gained access to the fan: remove the top freezer rack, remove the ice tray, remove the air flow manifold(needed to unscrew some screws), remove the manifold over the fan and cooling element. I unscrewed the fan mounting bracket. The fan motor's wires are plumbed through some plastic that i would have had to remove, so I decided instead to cut the wires and splice in the new fan motor. Then I put everything back together - the new motor works fine and doesn't make the whining noise.

I read instructions in all of the other repair stories everything went smooth no problems. Went and examined freezer door too see which type of door I had front or rear access. Popped off front LED panel, unpluged wires, removed 4 screws holding ice chute, removed 3 screws holding solenoid, slipped off solenoid pin, replaced all items in reverse order. This is one great site.

no instructions came with the part so I wrote for help from your techs. They were able to tell me how to access the solenoid. From there I was able to figure the rest out. I had to remove the trim, electrical board, flap, springs and arm to reach the screws necessary to remove the solenoid. I removed some of the corrosion with a baking soda paste so I could remove the screws. I carefully noted each step and position of the parts I removed and reversed the process to put things back after replacing the solenoid.

We followed the instructions we found on this site.

First we unplugged the refrigerator.

Then we removed the control panel that has the ice type selection on it by releasing the three spring latches. These are accessible from the bottom of the panel looking up toward the ice dispenser. There are three holes. Press a narrow screwdriver or punch in each of these holes and then pull out the control panel. (Be careful not to disconnect the wires, but observe how the wires are routed.)

Then we removed the ice tube cover that covers the solenoid assembly. There were four screws. One was very rusty and it required some WD40 to loosen it. Once the cover was removed the solenoid was visible on the right. (It has a floating component that attaches to the "arm" of the flap. This is how the solenoid opens and closes the flap. The flap needs to close properly so ice does not build up in the door.)

There were three screws that had to be removed to get the solenoid out. (The top one you may just need to loosen once the bottom two are removed.) When the solenoid was removed we also removed the old floating component from the flap are and replace it with the new one. We slid this into the solenoid hole and then screw it in with the three screws.

Before we attached everything, we plugged in the refrigerator to test the solenoid. We dispensed some ice and waited to hear the flap close. (The flap close is slightly delayed so be patient.)

We attached the cover that was over the solenoid being careful to route the wires as they were when we started. We test the solenoid again. Then we snapped the control panel back into place and tested again.

We found that having the right size screwdriver made a difference especially dealing with rusty screws. It was also handy to have a good flashlight. Having extra hands was helpful to hold the control panel and cover while working on the solenoid and routing the wires.

First i removed two screws that holds the ice maker in, unplug the plug to the ice maker. I was able to remove the old one. Place the new one in screwed in the two screws and pluged in the plug and in just a little while i had ice again. I am a women, if i can do it any one can. I had a repair man tell me it was going to be $250.00 dollars to replace it. I got on line ordered the ice maker and had it in 4 days. Very fast shipping and easy to install. Tina Kearns Beaumont, Calif

had to remove ice maker and several panels to get to the fan. wires for fan encapsulated so had to cut old and new wires then solder them together while working inside the small freezer area. not too bad all in all took about an hour to get it done. no more wind thru the trees noise and is working fine

Look at various pertenant DYI articles and videos on the internet. Replaced water filter with bypass plug. Checked water flow to icemaker water solenoid. Ran icemaker diagnostic test which failed. Ordered replacement. On receipt of replacement, began replacement work. To wit: Pulled fiidge from wall and unplugged. (Not necessary to shut water off.) Removed small freezer basket. Unloaded main freezer basket, removed it then removed the freezer door. (A screw on each side bolts the door rail of the chassis slide to the freezer chassis slide.) Loosened screws on rear, top of partition between icemaker and small freezer basket. Pushed up on partition front and popped out U-bar supporting partition bottom being carefull not to bend it. Removed same. Removed screws from partition and set aside. Removed grilled "thingy" between rear of icemaker and partition. Now have access to icemaker screws. Loosened the screws, pushed up and out and carefully let it hang by it's connector. Fiddled with the connector locking tabs and finally got it loose. Compared old and new icemaker. Have to keep the old water funnel. The new wiring harness was stiff and the connector had a different orientation. Twisted both the wiring harness and connector to align connector while the icemaker hung by it's cable being careful not to let the icemaer slip and fall to the bottom. After much fiddling, got the connector inserted and locked. Set icemaker over the two screws, pulled it down and tightend the screws. Put the old funnel into the new unit being very careful to get it right the first time. Put grilled "thingy and the partition and U-bar back in, put door back on, put the ice cube bin back, freezer drawers bac and reloaded the frozen food, plugged fridge in. Done! Time to replace icemaker was about 20 minutes and another 2 hours to do the rest ofthe work. Still required only a nutdriver and phillips.

The model we have, the front panel snaps into place. It was removed for access and the electrical connectors unplugged. Four screws and the chute assembly was removed. Removing three screws and opening the chute door allowed the solenoid assembly to be removed without removing the door assembly. All parts and area were cleaned and the assemmbly was the process in reverse.
Guideline to prolong recurrance: always put ice into glass first to reduce splashing of ice falling into liquids causing the solenoid armature to rust and stick.

First remove trim surrounding ice/water dispenser assembly. Use a flat spackle knife to obtain space between door and trim. Be careful not t scratch refrigerator door. Then pry trim off. This was the most difficult part of repair. The front plate of the dispenser is held to the back of the dispenser by two friction fastners and in the case of my refrigerator a phillips screw (some don't have screw in middle). Use a small round tool like an allen wrench to push up on the 2 fastners to release them. Next push the front assembley aside and remove the 4 screws holding the back part of the dispenser. Push that assembly aside. Remove the defective solenoid assembly by removing the 3 mounting screws. The solenoid base can be worked out by slipping it out of the solenoid assembly plunger still attached to the dispenser door assembly. Next slide the plunger off of the dispenser door assembly. Install new solenoid assembly by reversing this procedure.
Hint - I found the ice door assembly (wr17x11653) also needed replacement and it is well worth the effort to replace both at the same time.

I followed the instructions posted by previous custmers and they were accurate and simple

Video is a great but still need to read the instuctions because there are parts you may need on the old ice maker. Saved myself a bit of money by not having to call a repairman. The process was very simple. I am glad I did it myself. Thank you Parts Select!

Followed the on line video. Clear, concise & easy. Thanks.