GLD4209N10WW General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

I measured the diameter of the working wheels from the existing ones, and located the parts I needed from the website. I order two packages, each containing the wheels and axles for the rack.
When delivered, I snapped the wheels onto the delivered axles. Then, I snapped the axels unto the bottom rack, at the correct place. I used a large pliers for leverage because the axel was a bit tight to just simply snap on.
The middle wheels are located just behind the front wheels, thereby offering support when the botton rack is pulled forward for loading. Likewise, they offer support when the rack is pushed back in place.

Very easy - remove the screws around the inside of the door. 6 screws and 2 plugs to remove the assembly. Just be careful not the strip the sheetmetal screws when putting it back together. No screwguns...

Checked availability of replacement machine and replacement parts online..in this process, I ran across a similar story by someone who fixed similar problem on a similar machine. Before removing the fill valve, I tried to confirm that it was defective my reading solenoid coil continuity. It looked ok so I could not use that info to confirm a bad fill valve, although that possibility was not eliminated. So I ordered a replacement fill valve, removed existing fill valve and took a long position on paper plates. On delivery of the valve, I found that its mounting bracket (which forms a part of the supply pressure boundary) had been redesigned to conform to a year-2000 redesign of the machine. Valve instructions allowed for this and provide for retention of mounting bracket from old valve for use on new valve. Instructions indicated the o ring from new valve (vs old) should be used in attaching the old bracket. I found that the o ring groove in the new valve was so deep that o-ring compression on reassembly was prevented. I went ahead and put together with new o-ring. When turned on supply pressure, it began leaking immediately, so I shut down, removed valve again. During this (2nd) reassembly, I stacked both o rings in same groove in order to get compression at all. Reinstalled valve w/ both o rings....no leaks and it works. I think valve design should be reviewed and depth of o ring groove reduced so only one o ring is needed.

Ordered and replaced all three spray arms. The upper and middle spray arms were quickly replaced with a net-driver and are now working much better. The lower spray arm required no tool, just turn it CCW and lift it up. After replacement lower spray arm is still not moving at all. Maybe the lower spray arm washer is defective or the pump is just not putting out enough water. Will consider further repairs or replacement of the dish washer, it is 13 years old and used daily.

The most difficult part was removing the old wheels. The plastic coating on the rack had come off, leaving the metal exposed. The wheels had rusted on - that's why they wouldn't roll. Once we got them off with pliers, hammer, screwdriver and basically everything in the tool chest, we were home free. Installing the new wheels and axles was easy.

Just remove the lower basket from the machine and pull the old wheels off. Then snap on the new wheels on the pegs. The old style wheels snap in place without much force. The new wheels take much more force to install and lock onto the basket which keeps them from coming off when the basket is heavily loaded.

Took screws out that hold front panel on, unplugged wiring, changed soap dispenser, and put everything back together. Not a bad repair at all.

Dishwasher was not filling with water so I assumed the Water Inlet Valve was the problem. I replace the valve but still had the same problem. Studying everything I noticed another problem. The Drain Solenoid which I had replaced 9 months earlier was closed. The plunger was in the down position but must be in up position while washer is filling.
Water was pumped out as soon as it came in. I removed the Drain Solenoid and found the plunger securly stuck inside the plastic cylinder. I forcefully removed it. I knew the solenoid was probably OK because it jerked during the drain cycle. I put emery cloth around a dowel rod and sanded inside the plastic cylinder until plunger moved freely. I smoothed inside with wet or dry sandpaper. After re-installing the solenoid the dishwasher works great. My only explanation is the solenoid has a design flaw and that heat from the solinoid must expand the plastic inward over time.

problem solved..thanks

It was an install. My problem is that the drain tube is not standard to other dishwashers,so I could not get it at either of the local home improvement centers. The good news is that it is larger than the standard, and offers better discharge.

Simple as 1,2,3.Parts on time and priced right.

I took the bottom plate off by removing 1 screw on each side. I then pulled the water inlet valve out, disconnected the 2 wires. Because mine was the original inlet valve and GE changed the new one I had to remove the new inlet valve from the face plated and use the old face plate. I then reveresed everything and put it back together and Wah Lah the dishwaher was fixed!!

For those of you that have this problem, please note that there may be three arms to your dishwasher, not just two. I also recommend calling this company to make sure you get the right part...there was no picture for the parts I needed.

Took the old ones off and put the new ones in.

My water has a lot of calcium and the spray arms clog.
Second time in 3 years

First I removed the 8 screws on the interior side of the door that holds the plastic inner-face to the door assembly. This allowed me to easily pry the inner face away from the outer face which exposed the latch assembly.

The broken latch practically fell out making it very easy to work the new one into place.

I replaced the 8 screws, closed the door until I heard it latch and then squeezed the handle and was rewarded with a very satisfying sound and feel as the door popped open without a hitch.

I know a repairman would have cost me a minimum of $75 plus a hefty price for the part.