GLD4160MS General Electric Dishwasher - Instructions

Nut driver and philips screwdriver.

Watched the video, and followed the directions. Although my machine had some slight differences, the repair went pretty much per the video. Got all connections back where they belonged, cleaned up the insides a little while had the door parts separated, then buttoned it all back up, ran a cleaning solution thru empty washer, let it dry then started filling with dishes and ran the wash cycle the next day when full. All is well.

HAHA! The easiest repair we have ever done! Took it out of the box, snapped the old arm loose, put the new arm in and -- the dishwasher works like new! Thank you!

Removed inside of door, slide bottom seal on and put inside door back on. Job done!

Followed instructions on how-to video on website on how to remove and replace lower spray arm.

Pulled old spray arm off and snapped new one on. Less than 3 minutes and works great. Dishes are cleaner now.

Slide it into the arm until you hear it snap

I called your tech and she sent me a awesome video that made it so easy to fix on my own

Removed the dishwasher to get at the defective parts and removed,than replaced the two check valves and reassemble.

Just like the video and replaced it

Repaired the soap dispenser.

Screw on the part.
The one screw was too expensive and o thought when I ordered it the package said 2 screw for $14.99 but only came with one screw.
We found an screw that worked.
I suggest the toe kick to include the 2 screw to make the experience of DIY easier

Water was leaking from under the GE dishwasher, but once we pulled it out, had apparently been going on for a little while. Turning the water off to the dishwasher made it stop, so it was happening even when the unit was not running, potentially indicating somewhere early in the path of the water to and into the machine.

Indeed, inspecting the water inlet vale showed a slow leak. Getting the replacement part was fine, and it fit the electrical, water inlet (existing 90-degree water inlet elbow), and water outlet connections just fine - but the original machine screws that held on the original water inlet valve did not work. It took a little research to figure out the new type of screw required, which was apparently a 10/16 Type AB, which seemed to be a less common type of sheet metal screw (with a point), as opposed to the original flat-ended machine screws. So, after ordering those separately (which were a bit expensive), it went together fine.

A note on the water inlet valve part just indicating the the threading on those parts has changed over time, so potentially ordering the screws to attach it might be worthwhile, would be good information to add about the water inlet valve.

Turned off the power at the main box. Removed the six phillips screws and two bottom hex screws holding the front panel. Removed the two solenoid wires on the old dispenser (Label wire polarity). Removed the eight screws holding the old soap dispensor and took it out. Cleaned the area around the hole. Laid down a bead of silicon caulk around the hole edges. Placed the new dispenser in the hole and replaced the eight screws (do not over tighten). Replaced the two wires on the dispenser solenoid (check polarity). Replaced the front cover (Do not over tighten. Turned on the power and job complete.

You tube
Just mack sure the electric is off - breaker and live wire check pre starting