GFMS355GL0MS General Electric Dryer - Instructions

Repair was VERY easy - 4 screws total! Used google to find a video online that showed the steps.

I followed the great tips from the other repairs and that part was easy. Turned out not to be the exact problem. The problem was the rear bearing shaft which in another 20 min I had the drum out and repaired. Now the dryer is like new and will hopefully last another 5 yrs.
Thanks Parts Select for your help!

Open up the unit's lid first and then removed the front panel. Then I removed the broken belt and then routed the new belt around drum, through the belt tensioner, and onto to the motor pulley. I checked to make sure the belt was securely in place and if it would rotate the drum. Once I was positive it was in place I put the dryer panels back together, plug in the dryer, and tested operation. The only thing that was difficult was trying to figure out the routing of the belt through the tensioner because the old belt wasn't in place anymore. In all it was a 45 minute job.

As I pulled each of the 3 bolts, I put a alignment rod into each of the holes. After I pulled the old deflector off, I had basically 3 pins/rods to slip the new deflector on and keep everything in basic alignment. Pulled one rod, reinstalled the bolt, so on and so on. Ran motor for noises or misalignment and had neither. Pretty simple repair.

Your instructions were execellent
Problem is solve
Thank you

took off top of dryer, took out 2 screws so front of dryer could be removed, replaced bearing,slides and felt seal

remove move 2 screws holding top of dryer down.then remove two top screw holding front panel on so i could get to were my slide bearing where at poped them out and slide in new ones then put it all back together that was it

todd e line eaton ohio usa

snap in snap out

I removed the two screws inside the door and popped the top loose. I took the top off to see and have access to the interior. I leaned the front out and inserted the belt around the drum (with my wife's help), replaced the screws and laid the dryer on it's face on a rolled up blanket and proceeded to run the belt around the pulleys (two). The drive pulley was easy but the idler pulley, not so easy. I had to figure out how the pulley arm was supposed to provide tension on the belt. I figured it out by looking at the diagram. It was then I found the idler pulley was broken and fell apart in my hand. I advise that a new pulley be installed at the same time as the belt. Everything I read on your web site helped.

First I got the front bearing, found out I needed the slides too. It was binding at first, so I undid an earlier misadjustment I made (on the back drum mount). and it works!

Removed top cover by removing 2 screws in front door opening. Then removed front door removing 2 screws, one on each inner side of the front door.
Removed 2 screws on side doors located about 9 inches from bottom of dryer to permit taking off drum. Slip off belt and remove drum.
Thinking I had a bad bearing, I decided to turn the dryer on and found out I had a bad motor-still functional but noisy. I had difficulty installing the new belt since there was not access panel (which was mentioned in the service manual), so I decided to take off the left side panel-about 8 screws. With the left side panel off, it was a lot easier to install a new belt and install the new front bearings. I actually did not fix the noise, since I need to replace the motor ($$$). When it goes really bad, I can order it then, and it should not take me long to replace it.

Removed the 3 star screws, putting in a piece if wire as I removed them. Wire was not stiff enough and let the drum slip thus binding making it hard to remove. Started over. Finally called a friend for help. I bought 3 tension pins the same size as the screws. When removing the diffuser screws, insert a tension pin in the hole as you remove each of the screws. The tension pins are hard metal and do not have a head. The diffuser will slip over them. After the diffuser was in place, we turned on the dryer to make sure it was running ok. I noticed what looked like lint toward the front. It was part of the felt gasket on the front of the drum and front of the dryer. We removed the screws on the dryer front and pulled it forward. The felt was rethreaded into its slot, put the front back in place,and replaced the screws that hold everything in place. If you turn the part of the dryer that spins by hand, make sure you are turning it in the correct direction. Turning it the wrong way is probably what caused the felt gasket to come loose causing more work.

Took off the top and front of the dryer---really easy, just two screws for each. Put new drum slides (4) on the front/sides of the drum. Then things got a little bit more difficult. Removed the drum entirely, vaccuumed everything out and had to replace the rear bearings. My husband did this part so I can't tell you exactly how he did it. Not too difficult though. The written directions from here were hard to read---need to make a new copy from the original as it's so copied that it's all smudged. Anyway, once we got the new bearings on, we put everything back together. Dryer works like a charm, at a fraction of the cost it would have been to get someone out to do it. Thanks a bunch for the fast service!

I ordered and replaced the front and rear bearings, including the slides that go on the front bearing. Most of this was un-necessary; replacing the slides would have been sufficient, and much easier to do. Two of the old slides were worn completely away.

We removed the top of the the dryer and then removed the front part. Then put the traps in place, put the other parts of the dryer back on, and turned the dryer back on. Just as simple as that. No extra fees.