GFE27GSDDSS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

On the internet forum I read that if the control board needs to be changed , do the same for the Run Capacitor/relay.
The Ge profile refrigerator was 15 years old. First I disconnect the power cord,
I removed the control board at the back of the fridge, replaced it with a new one and did the same for the run capacitor.
Plugged the power cord back and it works fine. GE repair service did not want to come to do it. DIY is fine.

It snapped in place.

I asked two strong male neighbors to do the work and told them how to do it. Follow the simple directions on the box. You can Google it, but it will tell you the same directions.

It was very simple. Removed 4 screws on top of door where panel is located. Unplug 3 three connectors and removed board. reinstalled new one in reverse mode. On the down side this did not solve the problem. I am still working on it.

Replaced door circuit board. Vert simple to do. Problem was not solved! Replaced the main board with advice of ge tech. problem not solved. Currently waiting for the Tech to reappear. Not a happy person

Used a vidieofrom utube that described a similar situation.

https://youtu.be/VhVVK1pnupc

The only difference from this video was that my unit did not have the 2 screws that this video shows to remove.
I used the plastic knife to pry open the cover of the unit from that point everything internally was about the same.

Pulled out out shelf and inserted new one

Extremely easy repair, the hardest part was getting the old switch out. I used a pair of needle nose pliers to squeeze the tabs in and it came right out.

Replaced Temperature Sensor and now it is getting cold.

Popped it up and popped new one on

Remove the top cover above the door by lifting it slightly and pulling forward. I used a mirror to make sure that there was nothing in the way of accessing the switch from above. I used a blade screwdriver to press against the switch retainer on the topside, while GENTLY prying from below with another blade screwdriver to get the switch dislodged. Once the retainer was past the opening, I wiggled the switch downward and then rotated it to the left when the rounded top right edge of the switch was visible. This allowed the wiring to the connector to pass thru the hole. I pushed the wiring from the top and pulled from below to get the connector below the opening for the switch. I then unplugged the switch, plugged in the new switch and reversed the removal process feeding the connector thru first then rotating the switch to the right to get the rounded edge of the switch thru the opening, then pressed the switch up into the opening until it snapped into place. Total time less than 10 minutes.

Totally followed the instructions of the video that came with the sensor. Unplugged the the fridge, defrosted the freezer. Cut off the main sensor that usually is the one that goes out. Installed the the new sensor with new wire terminals, crimped them and covered with electrical tape. Fridge works like a charm. Partsselect is excellent. Saved me a few hundred dollars versus having a GE Tech come and do it.

took a little more effort than the video show to remove old module and replace new. Works fine now.

Freezer door removed with two allen screws.

took side bracket off wall of freezer and put new complete side up. I checked for the parts first through GE supply , it was double the price.