GFE27GSDBSS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

It was very simple. Removed 4 screws on top of door where panel is located. Unplug 3 three connectors and removed board. reinstalled new one in reverse mode. On the down side this did not solve the problem. I am still working on it.

Replaced door circuit board. Vert simple to do. Problem was not solved! Replaced the main board with advice of ge tech. problem not solved. Currently waiting for the Tech to reappear. Not a happy person

Used a vidieofrom utube that described a similar situation.

https://youtu.be/VhVVK1pnupc

The only difference from this video was that my unit did not have the 2 screws that this video shows to remove.
I used the plastic knife to pry open the cover of the unit from that point everything internally was about the same.

Pulled out out shelf and inserted new one

I asked two strong male neighbors to do the work and told them how to do it. Follow the simple directions on the box. You can Google it, but it will tell you the same directions.

Freezer door removed with two allen screws.

took a little more effort than the video show to remove old module and replace new. Works fine now.

took side bracket off wall of freezer and put new complete side up. I checked for the parts first through GE supply , it was double the price.

It was way to ez to install only a couple of minutes that's it

just removed the old switch and replaced it with the new one

Pulled the two wires out from the access hole in the lower part of the refrigerator. Put them in the spade connectors on the new switch, and pushed the switch into place.

Exposed evap defrosted with heat gun exposed defrost element defrost termination switch ok therminster didn’t check out the thermistor sends the signal to logic panel then run the the freezer ice machine and refer temps it took 24 hours before the system starting to show results freezer compartment 10 below ice compartment 0 degrees refer temp 37 degrees one refrigerant three different temps system is running at optimum performance 450.00 $ service call the thing with GE appliances there is no wiring diagram .thankyou parts select .ill use you on all domestic service calls.

Using plyers Pulled old switch down and out. Put new one in and pushed new switch up into position. The switch plugs into the contacts, no wiring needed. Worked like a charm. You saved me 200 dollars GE repair bill. Thanks

removed the inside fridge electrical panel and swapped switches

1. Removed and tested defrost heater, tests good. 2. Reinstalled defrost heater. 3. Removed and tested defrost over-temperature sensor, tests good. 4. Reinstalled over-temperature sensor using soldering iron, dielectric silicone grease, and heat-shrink tubing. 5. Removed the control printed circuit board and checked for blown fuse's, fuse's are all good. 6. Removed the defrost relay from the printed circuit board using soldering iron, bench tested the relay, it is good. 7. Soldered defrost relay back onto the circuit board, and reinstalled control board. 8. Removed and bench tested evaporator thermistor, the resistance is out of specification, ordered new thermister. 9. Installed new thermistor using soldering iron, dielectric silicone grease, and heat-shrink tubing. 10. Re-assembled refrigerator. 11. Installed temperature monitoring and recording instrumentation for 72 hour test. The defrost cycle is running correctly with a defrost termination temperature of around 90 deg-f. The defrost cycle ran twice while running the 72 hour test. 11. Removed test instrumentation and Put the unit back into service, The thermistor was the culprit. I bought the right part on the first shot, nice.