GFDS150GD0WW General Electric Dryer - Instructions

Replaced it as one would. I took off the front facing and replaced the belt. It took a bit of searching to find the proper way to route the belt around the pulley.

It took a while since it was my first time and I wasn't sure what to take apart and what to leave intact.

If I were to do it again, it would take 30 minutes or less.

My son is an engineer and repairs washers and dryers for a large commercial laundry company on a daily basis. He installed my part easily and had me up and running in no time.

Open dryer door, reach in at the 12 o'clock postion
on the inside is the bulb.

remove the old one and put the new one...!!! Easy

Used a flash light to see, reached in and installed new bulb above the door

Inspected door switch operation and was working properly and simply looked for bulb in the dryer drum housing and located it immediately above the door opening,unscrewed it and noticed the broken elements inside. The bulb is a 10w/120V. Installed bulb problem solved.

Open the door and removed the part. Installed the new part and started the dryer.

TOOK OFF TOP AND FRONT PANEL REACHED IN UNDER TUBE AND REMOVED FROM BELT TENSIONER HARDEST PART IS PUTTING BACK ON TENSIONER TAKES TWO HANDS LAYING ON YOUR BELLY

Removed control bezel, removed top, removed p.c. bracket screws and laid control bezel and p.c. bracket back to expose entire drum. Remove front with old bearing assembly. Pressed out old bearing assembly.
New bearing assembly was slightly different in size, taller locks and about a quarter inch shorter on the right insert. This required two small pry bars to insert into place. Once done revered installation. Did use a dry lube on sliders before assembly for break in.

Unscrewed the old bulb using the lefty loosey method. Installed the new bulb by turning it clockwise or righty tighty.

Un plug the dryer. Gather phillip, flat head and torix screw drivers. Remove the rear of the dryer to get the spec sheet with the appropriate part number. Next called for part. Belt installation requires removal of front and top of dryer in order to slide belt over the drum. Getting to all the fastners requires tilting the dryer on its back. Clean out excess lint from dryer interior and duct work. Slide drive belt over drum and use some masking tape to hold it in position. Reassemble dyer. Return dryer to upright position and put the belt on the pully and tensioner from rear access port. Remove tape. Replace access panel. Reattach vent duct work. Plug in. There are 5-6 different size screws holding everything together...you may want to use masking tape to label where each type of screw goes. All totaled it took about an hour and cost less that $25. Well worth the effort.

Screwed the light bulb into the socket (duh)

Well, the intall would have been great except for the fact that I needed another part. If your belt breaks there is a reason for it. Make sure you check all the parts that work with the belt. Their was a pully the was defective and also need to be replaces. I think it would be a good idea to put a little note on the page for the Belt Drive to let people know that if you are replaceing the belt you might want to check the Idler Pully for it too might need to be replaces. I'm not an expert and if that was on the page for the Belt Drive I might have look at the pully before I ordered and I would have ordered the part along with the Belt Drive. As it was had to wait another 4 day to get my dryer fixed. I'm very happy the Parts Select has all my parts and they pretty good at getting them out to me in a good amount of time when I need them.

loosened two hose clamps and four screws to replace the anti siphon valve.

Pulled the drum an found spade clip burned on wire. Hi limit Thermostat crumbled/ broke while pulling spade clip so I trimmed back the wire, cleaned the spade clip and soldered the wire back on. Isolated the other thermostats in the system and tested for resistance. Reassembled dryer.