GER442AS2 Gibson Dryer - Instructions

After unplugging the dryer, disconnecting it from the vent, and moving into an open work area, I popped the top open with the blade of a screwdriver, disconnected the two wires that connect to the door switch, then lifted the front panel (with the door) up and away from the drum. Next, I lifted the drum out of the worn rear bearing assembly and lowered it into the dryer in order to release tension on the belt. I then removed the entire drum by carrying it forward and out of the way. I then removed the old bearing assembly, which was loose and covered with metal dust. After cleaning the area with a dry cloth to remove the old grease and metal dust, and vacuuming all the lint off *everything*, I installed the new bearing assembly with a 5/16" nut driver, being careful to position the provided ball-bearing between the plastic bearing assembly and the outer clip. The little ball-bearing is very important, as it is the drum's only path to ground, and prevents the build up of static electricity as the drums spins. I then filled the new bearing assembly with the provided grease. Everything is easy up to this point, but the difficult part for me was removing the old hub from the drum and re-attaching the new one. It is held on by three screws and they become seated very tightly. After loosening them and removing the old hub from the drum, attaching the new one prvoed difficult as well, as the screw-holes in the new hub are not threaded to fit the screws. The screws muct be forced to cut a thread as you install them, which requires a great deal of force. After installing the new hub and putting the new belt (pruchased separately) around the drum, the next step is to reinstall the drum by lifting it in through the front of the dryer and positioning the new hub over the new bearing assembly and pressing it down into place. It will gently "snap" into place as it seats. Then, on the back side of the dryer, I removed the vent panel by removing the two screws that hold it in place and positioned the new drive belt (loosely dangling around the drum) over the motor's drive wheel and behind the sring-tensioned idle arm. Then it is a simply matter to reinstall the front panel by genly lifting the drum and sliding the door opening inside it, then reseating all the little clips that hold the front panel in place. I then pressed the top back into place, reconnected the vent hose, plugged it back in and checked for operation. My fifteen year-old dryer now works like new!

The how to video was great. I had a little problem with getting the belt back on the pulleys. Not enough room for my hands. I did manage to get it back on ,and runs great

Replaced the heating element assembly. Problem was still there. Checked the electrical schematic to try to resolve. Everything checked out except the contacts on the motor M-1 to M-2 had no continuity. Removed the switch from the motor and exercised it. Works fine now.

Main problem was the bearing, replaced the belt and felt seal as well
The video instruction was very helpful
Was easy with basic mechanical aptitude
Dryer running great now
All parts from Partselect.com
Have ordered from them before and would order from them again

After changing the drum support bearing, and the front felt ring, the noise continued. It turned out to be the tensioner pully. The harmonic vibration travels throughout the dryer box like an instrument so you can't tell where the sound is comming from. Before you do anything, spray a little wd40 between the bushing and the shaft on the belt tenioner pully. If the squeel goes away, you have found your smoking gun.

pulled appliance away from wall and unplugged the electrical cord and then used putty knife to pop up the top. Then removed the screws that held the front in place. Disconnected the wire to the switch on the door and then front on a rug and used acetone and scraper to remove the old glue and felt. Cleaned the area thoroughly and apply the glue that come with the kit an give it a couple of seconds to get tacky and then applied the felt and used clothes pins to hold in place for about an hour and then put back together and let it set over night before using. Had good success and it solved my problem.

I replaced the rear bearing assy. Thanks to all that sent in there stories. very helpful. But my problem was the breaker in breaker box. needless to say "check your outlet for proper voltage.First,before anything else." i had a bad breaker, had it replaced,with proper 30amp fuses.Dryer works fantastic..Thanks to all again for your input. Great Website...

I am a "do-it-yourselfer" despite my husbands opposition. I followed instructions from one of the posts on the site and took apart the dryer. I found the location of the rear bearing and took it out and replaced it with the new one. Easy as that. Made sure the parts looked the same. Made sure I saw how everything went together. I used a magnet to hold the ball bearing in place on the rear mount and taped the metal bracket on the outside of the dryer. Screwed it right in. Reassembled in reverse and works like a charm. To all the women out there who don't think they can do this. It's easy. Give it a try.

So easy! I ordered the part on the website. Received it 24 hours later. And popped it in place. Good as new.

I took the new door catch out of the packaging and just snapped it in place it was easy peasy and took less time than opening the package

popped the catch in existing hole and replaced the screws

Remove rear control panel cover and remove drum belt from pulleys. remove top cover by pushing in on the 2 hold down fasteners on the front with flat head srewdriver. remove front panel by removing the 2 screws and then pop it out by lifting up. disconnect the wires at the quick connect plugs and set the front aside. lift the drum up to pop it out of the bearing housing and move forward slightly to give youself good access to the wires for the heating element and disconnect the 2 wires. remove drum the reset of the way out and do your work. Replacing the heating pan and drum bearing is pretty obvious what to do. (just a few screws). remove thermal cutoff switch from old pan and install on new pan. reinstall in reverse. no need to label wires because it doesn't matter where the wires go an a switch (justs makes and breaks a circuit) and the heater doesn't matter as long as both wires are hooked up to complete the circuit. You can't mess up the quick connectors on the door. Only my heater failed but I also replaced the drum bearing as long as I had it all apart (only another ~$20). Take the time to clean out the dust from inside the dryer, it will help the blower motor run cleaner and cooler and last longer. I bought a belt also to have on hand for replacement. I didn't replace it since my old one was good and it is real quick to replace at a later time.

Followed instructions for removal and installation.

Opened top, removed front cover, removed belt, took out drum, replaced bearing on drum and bearing guide on back of dryer. Reinstalled drum and belt, then replaced drum glides and upper felt,let glue set with clamps over night.

replaced bearing and shaft new belt and everything works just fine