GDSC0KBXARCC General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

I identified the noise was coming from the coils / and the fan. Cleaning the fan helped reduce the noise a bit but it still kept recurring. I ordered the part, which was really easy using the diagram on the website. The instructions and the video were really helpful and was able to remove the old motor and replace it with the new one with relative ease. While there I cleaned the fan blade and vacuumed the surrounding area. This whole repair went quite smoothly and has given me the confidence to take on other repairs before calling out the repairman.

Located temperature sensor on condenser in the freezer section( as per instructional video ). Cut off bad sensor with wire cutter then soldered on the new sensor and sealed with electrical shrink wrap.

as per video- follow all of the videos and u r going to save a lot of money tx partselect im glad I found u guys ps only order from partselect.com they only ship the correct parts remember look at the video select the symptom and buy as per video tx again problemsolved

I was intimidated by this repair(as I am with most repairs), because there were 2 possible problems. But being able to purchase both parts for $30 (including shipping) made it worth a try. Thanks to the instructional videos that were sent, the repair was much easier than I anticipated. For me, the hardest part was fitting my shoulders in the narrow freezer. Now the appliance works like a charm. This would have been a $150-$200 repair had I called a company to do it.

Used small screw driver to pry the top of the switch away from left inside wall of freezer side of side-by-side refrig./freezer; then used pliers to remove the switch; then removed the 3 prong socket and plugged it to new switch and installed it into the inside wall of the freezer.

I have checked the defrost thermostat:During the defrosting cycle the thermostat is still open

There were only 3parts listed to check omed out the defrost heater and thermostat ....thermistor checked bad ordered replacement took less than 2 minutes to replace after I defrosted it again runs fine

replaced the defrost thermostat. The "how to" video was superb. Watched it twice before beginning the job. repair went as described.

Temp. Sensor was under an egg shaped cover on the left side wall in the refrigerator. Remove the cover, cut the two wires to the old sensor and remove it. Connect the new sensor to the two wires using butt connectors. Replace cover and done.

Took set screw and allen wrench and screwed set screw into place.

Unplug the refrigerator and remove frozen food, shelving, light and back panel inside the freezer section to expose the cooling coils. The coils were completely iced over. Using a wet dry vacuum to discharge the air toward the coils quickly melted the ice. The trouble shooting section on your website described my problem and I bought both items which were the most common problem. Using the video(s) e-mailed to me when purchasing the parts provided great information regarding details for the repair. After replacing both parts the refrigerator is working great having spent just under $25.00.

My brother-in-law is a 15 year refrigeration technician who I called and described the problem to. He told me to put an "amp clamp" on the line side of the wires (black) that go to the starting controls on the side of the compressor. The motor has a label that has a number on it (LRA) that he used to determine the max amps it would pull. In this case, if the motor pulled 10 amps, then the motor was bad and I'd have to buy a new refrigerator. It was pulling less then 9 amps so he thought to buy a new overload, since the capacitor checked out (measured by multi-meter). As soon as the part came, I removed the back panel (4 screws removed by nut driver), removed the clip that holds the overload/capacitor assembly, detached the two wires from it, and removed the capacitor from the overload. I swapped in the new overload and repeated the above process in reverse. The only difficulty was that the new part was different in that the plug-in locations for the two wires were in different locations, and not marked. I had to disassemble the old part to figure out how it worked so I could deduce how the new one plugged in. Once that was solved, it was a quick fix. This was not a repair that just anyone could do; it required someone with a lot of experience to help me, and I am an engineer.

With my hands and tools. It was real easy. Now just waiting to see it that was the problem.

My defrost was not working, so from time to time I had to remove the accumulated ice with a hair dryer. I did some research and found out it is typically caused by a failing defrost thermostat, or temperature sensor. I purchase and replaced both for 30 dollars. Really easy. I watched the instruction videos on the site at least 5 times, so when I did it, it was like I was doing for the 5th time. Now the fridge works just fine!!

Removed the panel on the back wall inside the freezer side. To do this I unplugged the appliance, removed the racks, drawer, bulb and two screws holding the panel in place. The defrost cycle was not working so ice buildup on the coil was to the point of blocking air flow to the refrigerator side. I used a hair dryer set on high and stuffed two towels at the base of the coil to collect the melting frost and ice. Once the coil was clear of frost and ice I took the defrost timer off by sliding the clip off the tube, cut the wires and stripped the ends so I could use wire nuts to make the new connections . Placed the new defrost timer in the clip and reattached in the same location the old one was removed from. The sensor was replaced by doing the same steps. I replaced the panel after all the wire nuts were secured and the wires were tucked away where they would not interfere with the fan. Replaced the bulb, drawer, racks and food and plugged The refrigerator back in. 20 minutes from beginning to end.