GDS18SBPALSS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

Barry G was right on with instructions and expectations of the process to trouble shoot parts and how to replace. Barry also provide the right part numbers for replacement items. Thanks again Barry.

Condenser fan motor was running slow. This was not a problem included in your list of possible problems. I thought that maybe the capacitor was bad but have no way to check it. So I ordered one. when I received it, I installed it. That was not the problem. So I ordered a fan motor and installed it. That was not the problem. So finally I ordered a control board and installed it. That solved the problem. So maybe you should put "cond.fan motor runs slow" in your list of possible faults and what causes that problem. Capacitor was easy to install, simply remove the cover plate, flip off retaining wire, unplug the capacitor and replace. Fan motor was a bit more difficult. It must be removed from mount after fan scroll is removed. Remove one screw that holds scroll, bend the top down and remove. Then pull hard on fan blade to remove it. It must be installed on new motor. Two screws in frame mount can be removed with some effort if you have a 1/4" drive ratchet with a Phillips screwdriver bit. Then pull frame open and install new motor. Push fan blade on new motor shaft hard. Replacing control board was easy. I used a pair of long nose pliers with 90 degree bend to get mounting pins closed to pull board off.

Water was leaking on the floor from under the fridge and I noticed that the cubes were very small and the ice maker was taking much too long to make ice. After pulling the fridge out from the wall, I removed the bottom back plate (about 7 screws) and checked the ice maker refill tube that goes from the inlet valve at the bottom of the fridge (left side) into the ice maker at the top right side of the fridge. The 1/4" tube had split 2 " from the inlet valve where it makes a sharp "U" turn on its' way up to the ice maker. I turned off the ice maker by raising the handle on the ice maker and turning off the 1/2" supply tube from the house supply pipe. I then tried splicing the tube by cutting it at the split and installing a 1/4" barbed splice on the two ends, but could not get a water tight connection. I then decided to order a new refill tube from Parts Select. The part arrived in 1 day (FANTASTIC SERVICE) and I installed it in about 10 minutes with no problem. (GE was out of stock on this part.) To begin, I disconnected the old tube at the water inlet valve (just push in the quick connect and then pull out) and proceeded to disconnect the other end at the top of the fridge where the ice maker is located. The molded end is adhered to the back with a sticky adhesive and must be scraped off with a putty knife before it can be pulled out. Once this is done, the new refill tube goes in the exact same way. One caution- just be sure to test and adjust the length of the white supply tube (I had to lengthen it by 1 ") before peeling the protective paper off the adhesive. It must be long enough to reach the white plastic cup that fills the ice maker. The inlet valve end of the 1/4" tube at the bottom just pushed into the quick connect connection. I then turned the ice maker back on inside the fridge by lowering the handle and also turned the house supply valve back on. I waited for the ice maker to call for water and then checked for leaks. NO LEAKS- job done!

I replaced the thermostat, temperature sensor, and the run capacitor. . . Refrigerator still not cooling. I checked the start relay and measured the input terminals on the compressor for the correct resistance. . . Everything measured correctly. In a last ditch effort before calling for service, I pulled the main board, inspected it and saw the problem right away. One leg on the compression capacitor had desoldered itself. Got out my soldering iron and applied a good amount of solder to that point. Put everything back together and turn it on. . . Problem fixed. The compressor kicked on right away and started cooling the refrigerator.

repalaced the old one with the new one. easy

Removed rer cover, unplugged starter assembly from side of compressor and replaced unit with a new one. Plugged fridge in and it works good.

Defrost timer is hidden in the control panel in the refrigerator top middle. Turn to off and remove two screws which are hidden behind white tabs. I had to pry the old timer from the plug with a screw driver because it was tight. Try not to short across the terminals. Plug in the new timer. Replace it in the clip where you got old one and reinstall the controls. The freezer was still all frosted up so I had to remove the cover and defrost it with a hair dryer to get it to work. Then I turned it on and it works great.

Had to get behind the refrigerator and clean the drain out first and that took at least and hour. Just unplug the old motor. Took the old parts of the old motor, put them on the new one and plugged it back in.

easily popped the new one in.

Checked the defroster coil which is located behind the rear panel in the freezer compartment, it was still working. Followed the schematics down to the defrost timer, which is located in the lower front of the refrigerator and tried that. Plugged in the new part and the problem is solved.