GC2328PED5 Maytag Refrigerator - Instructions

Great service. Unpluged old switch and pluged in new one. Works great

I noticed that the refrigerator was having trouble maintaining temperature. Thought it might be time for new one until I found out that a new frig was $5k to $7K. Just happened to notice that the light switch didn't look quite right (was not sitting sqaure to the door). Once I pressed it it came loose. I then realized the the lights were staying on (50 watts of heating). Replaced the switch and the frig started working like new.

A very cold and brittle switch in a 17 year old fridge. Used screwdrivers to pry out with some resistance Had to cut the molded plug in half and split wires, because replacement contacts were farther apart than the original. End result, works great.

Pry old switch and pull out. Disconect two wires. Put two wires on new switch, must be inserted right and connections not loose. Put switch in, making shure wies do not come off and snap in place

Unplug appliance. Socket wrench to unscrew two screws. Module drops down. disconnected two press-on wires by prying off with screwdriver. Removed old switch. Press-fit new switch. Reconnected two wires (color coded). Screwed module back in place. Plug in appliance.

Went to PartsSelect. Put in Dishwasher model number. Chose the screws for that model number. Ordered the screws. Can't get any easier than that!

It was a shelf, all we had to do is clean up the mess and replace it.

removed the 2 screws that held the panel in place, had to reach up and push on locking tabs to lower trhe front of the panel. was able to then push on the locking tab of the switch to release it. removed the wires, replaced them onto the new switch, and snapped the switch into place. the rest was reverse of the uninstall process.

Removed the food out of the fresh food door. Removed the top hinge cover, removed the 3 nut screws on top. Lifted the door off of the bottom pin. Set the door to one side. Removed the lower hinge pin with a screw driver and replaced with new product. Lifted door back onto lower hinge pin, secured the top pin hinge with the 3 nut screws, replaced the top hinge cover and placed food back into the door. Done in less than 15 minutes.

I simply removed the old brackets and replaced with the new ones. Can't get any easier than that!

Most of the time was sent to removing and replacing door shelves. Pry off upper hinge cover. Easy, it's only plastic. Remove 3 fastener from top hinge and remove hinge. Lift door off lower hinge. Lay door down on table let handle hang over edge. Remove door closer attach fastener. Remove and replace door closer. Pry lower hinge up and out. Tap new lower hing pin into place. Replace door, upper hinge and hinge cover. Had to replace Door Closer and Hing Pin together; both were worn and needed replacing.

This was easy. Removed the plastic cover at the top hinge. Removed the 3 screws at the top hinge. Lifted the door off of the bottom hinge and laid it on it's side. The part that was worn out is the "natural door closer". It looks like this part will need to be replaced every few years, it is made of plastic and was ground down to nubs. Remove the screws holding it down and replace it with the new one. Lubed it up with some WD40 to get rid of squeaks. I also replaced the lower hinge pin, but I don't think that was necessary.

Place two 2x4s, stacked on each other on floor parallel and close to refrigerator, leaving room for socket handle and extensions to three lower hinge bolts. Placed 3 foot 2x4 at right angles on top of the parallel stack of 2x4s, with one end under right hand refrigerator door. Placed 20-30 lb bucket of rice on other end of 2x4 to exert upward pressure on door, raising door bottom off of hinge pin. Removed three hinge screws. Replaced Natural Door Closer and Lower Hinge pin. Screwed three hinge pin screws back in. Removed fulcrum.

replaced the broken basket stop with new one. took a whole minute to do so!!!!!

Repair requires the removal of the bottom hinges on the doors. No problem for the refrigerator side, but the freezer side has wiring in the freezer door for the water/ice dispenser, so have some wood blocks handy to prop it up. Biggest challenge is that in the center of the kickplate there is a mounting screw (Torx head) that is behind the kickplate and runs vertically. I removed the old kickplate without removing this screw, just broke the kickplate off. The screw is very difficult to access with any tool. Removal wasn't too terrible because the old kickplate was gone; but insertion with the new kickplate in place was a challenge. I used a Torx socket, but because there isn't enough clearance for the ratchet, I held the socket into place by wedging a large flat blade screwdriver between the bottom of the socket and the floor. I was just able to get my index finger under the new kickplate to slowly turn the socket to fasten the screw. Unfortunately I didn't feel as though I could skip the screw - without it the kickplate sags in the center.