GC2227SDFB Maytag Refrigerator - Instructions

A very cold and brittle switch in a 17 year old fridge. Used screwdrivers to pry out with some resistance Had to cut the molded plug in half and split wires, because replacement contacts were farther apart than the original. End result, works great.

Used a screwdriver to pry loose the old switch, swapped wires to the new switch and pushed it into the opening. Took about 2 minutes.

Great service. Unpluged old switch and pluged in new one. Works great

Took out lower shelf. Unscrewed screws holding two broken shelf supports and removed broken supports. Replaced with new supports and screwed in the screws. Nothing to it.

Place two 2x4s, stacked on each other on floor parallel and close to refrigerator, leaving room for socket handle and extensions to three lower hinge bolts. Placed 3 foot 2x4 at right angles on top of the parallel stack of 2x4s, with one end under right hand refrigerator door. Placed 20-30 lb bucket of rice on other end of 2x4 to exert upward pressure on door, raising door bottom off of hinge pin. Removed three hinge screws. Replaced Natural Door Closer and Lower Hinge pin. Screwed three hinge pin screws back in. Removed fulcrum.

Most of the time was sent to removing and replacing door shelves. Pry off upper hinge cover. Easy, it's only plastic. Remove 3 fastener from top hinge and remove hinge. Lift door off lower hinge. Lay door down on table let handle hang over edge. Remove door closer attach fastener. Remove and replace door closer. Pry lower hinge up and out. Tap new lower hing pin into place. Replace door, upper hinge and hinge cover. Had to replace Door Closer and Hing Pin together; both were worn and needed replacing.

It was a shelf, all we had to do is clean up the mess and replace it.

This was easy. Removed the plastic cover at the top hinge. Removed the 3 screws at the top hinge. Lifted the door off of the bottom hinge and laid it on it's side. The part that was worn out is the "natural door closer". It looks like this part will need to be replaced every few years, it is made of plastic and was ground down to nubs. Remove the screws holding it down and replace it with the new one. Lubed it up with some WD40 to get rid of squeaks. I also replaced the lower hinge pin, but I don't think that was necessary.

I used a knife blade to slip under the edge of old switch to pray it out of the hole it was inserted into, switched the wires and replaced the new switch into the same hole. It took about five minutes!

replaced electric control board, defrost for six hours. next day (24 hours) same problem, dusterhoff2928@charter.net

Poped ou the old switch, connected new switch and pushed back into socket.

Repair requires the removal of the bottom hinges on the doors. No problem for the refrigerator side, but the freezer side has wiring in the freezer door for the water/ice dispenser, so have some wood blocks handy to prop it up. Biggest challenge is that in the center of the kickplate there is a mounting screw (Torx head) that is behind the kickplate and runs vertically. I removed the old kickplate without removing this screw, just broke the kickplate off. The screw is very difficult to access with any tool. Removal wasn't too terrible because the old kickplate was gone; but insertion with the new kickplate in place was a challenge. I used a Torx socket, but because there isn't enough clearance for the ratchet, I held the socket into place by wedging a large flat blade screwdriver between the bottom of the socket and the floor. I was just able to get my index finger under the new kickplate to slowly turn the socket to fasten the screw. Unfortunately I didn't feel as though I could skip the screw - without it the kickplate sags in the center.

Removed the food out of the fresh food door. Removed the top hinge cover, removed the 3 nut screws on top. Lifted the door off of the bottom pin. Set the door to one side. Removed the lower hinge pin with a screw driver and replaced with new product. Lifted door back onto lower hinge pin, secured the top pin hinge with the 3 nut screws, replaced the top hinge cover and placed food back into the door. Done in less than 15 minutes.

removed the 2 screws that held the panel in place, had to reach up and push on locking tabs to lower trhe front of the panel. was able to then push on the locking tab of the switch to release it. removed the wires, replaced them onto the new switch, and snapped the switch into place. the rest was reverse of the uninstall process.

Since the old one kept falling off the disassembly was very easy. I lined up the five prongs on the new cover with the holes on the unit and snapped it into place. Job done,