GBD307PRB00 Whirlpool Wall Oven - Instructions

first you have to remove door, so open door all the way, pull back the lever on each hinge, then close door all the way, it will be able to be pulled straight out then, but be careful, its a heavy sucker. I layed a blanket out on table and layed door on blanket, start by taking out screws around the edges of door, keep these in separate container.(don't lose any). now you need to separate the door in half, this can be a lil difficult, mine had grease build up on one end that I had to be scraped . pay special attention to how the brackets go and how the door comes apart, this info will be needed later, now that door is in half, you will need to start taking the 2 other layers of glass out, please pay attention how you take apart, it has to be replaced exactly right. take pics if needed. when you get to the broken glass, take out carefully, and place glass over opening, centered well. now you have to start replacing the other layers, the replaced broken glass is kept in place by pressure, once you get the other glass layers in do not lift up door, you will need to put in the screws under the door, one of which tightens the hinge base to the door, these are the screws that tighten the replaced glass, I found this out the hard way and had to undo the whole thing again to recenter the glass, once tight, just keep going backwards replacing the other half of door. once you do this you will either say, wow that stunk, or wow that was easier than I thought. if you don't have patience, then take the door and glass to a repair shop, because you are dealing with 3 pieces of glass costing 50.00 each. be smart.

I watched a video on line about how to do the baking element. I did not want to take the door off so it made it more difficult to get to the back where the connections are located. The broiler element has screws holding it up where the over element is resting on the bottom. The video said that you should test the conductivity but I did not have the object needed to do that. It was supposed to solve 99% of the problem to just replace it. When it was removed, I could see that it had a hole blown out on the coil. Problem solved without a repairman needed which would have cost alot more and I still would have needed this part.

just popped the bottom trim on the oven , was an exact fit so install was very easy.

screwed in the new oven light

I did some research on blogs and identified the thermal fuse as likely culprit. Ordered part from PartSelect.com, but had to call the 800 number because the parts diagram doesn't show this fuse, just the thermostat. The fuse is located on the back of the oven, so it must be removed from the cabinet, but that wasn't a huge project. There are a bunch of sheet metal screws holding the top and back covers that must be removed. The fuse is held on by two screws and has two wire connections. Getting the stove out and disassembling is the hard part, but not really difficult if you take your time. I used a foot stool that was about the same height as the bottom of the oven and just slid the oven out on a piece of cardboard. Make sure you turn the power off before starting.

I was able to convince a local mechanic that he could do this after watching it done four times. The most difficult part was unscrewing and taking out the oven to get to the back. He suggested since this has happened everytime I used the self-cleaning feature, that I cut a hole in the wall for easier access (tongue-in-cheek). The most difficult part was dealing with the extended warranty service plan - this is covered, but they could not find a technician to do this. Then I found out they don't pay mileage so who would want to come out to a rural ND ranch to repair an oven?

Removed wall oven from wall. Removed back cover. Unscrewed thermastat and removed old thermastat. Screwed in new thermastat and put back together.

I turned off the power from the circuit breaker. I then removed the doors and the trim package from around the oven. I slid out the oven and had my husband help me lower it to the floor. I removed the back covering and then removed the wires connected to the old thermostat. I unscrewed the old thermostat and replaced it with the new thermostat. Did everything in reverse and it seems to be working very well. It took about 30 minutes total. Some sites suggested that a fuse needed to be adjusted/replaced. In this kitchen-aid double oven and I'm assuming whirlpools as well, the thermostat/fuse is one piece located on the back of the unit. It was very simple. The piece cost $47. Such a great investment of time and money. I had the piece in 2 days, without paying extra postage.

replace thermal safety switch on back of oven

This site helped me diagnois the problem rating the suggested problem as a 99% chance cause of the problem. Ordered the thermal overload safety thermostat and it arrived in just two days. Repair was quick and easy once getting the oven removed from the cabinet. (It's very heavy so have some assistance or a sturdy stand to set it out on.)#2 Phillips scredriver and needle nose pliers were only tools needed. Overall, an easy repair for anyone.

Visited PartSelect.com and ordered the element. Talked to a really sweet lady who assisted me at the company by ordering the part. Received the part and my husband cut off the electricity to the stove, took off the old element, got the sockets and after pushing on the new element, and he screwed the screws back on, cut on the electricity and we cut the stove on and it was ready to go. VERY, VERY SIMPLE TO REPAIR.

After reading other repair reports and talking to a representative, I ordered the thermal overload safety thermostat. Relatively easy to install after removing the oven from the cabinet, only it did not work. After going over the wiring with a voltage meter, we discovered there was no power to the upper oven, only the lower oven was working. Took the panel off the top of the oven and found a wire which was not attached to anything. Never needed this part at all. This oven was purchased from a second-hand store and was used in a remodeling. $52 for part and $100 for serviceman to make the oven operational.

I followed the step-by-step instructions from Steve on the part select videos posted on Youtube.

Took out the 2 screws and removed 2 wires connected to old element, put on new one. Did this all in about 5-10 minutes. Hubby didn't even have to help!

I found several posts about Whirlpool/KitchenAid ovens having this problem and most of the time this required a replacement of the thermal fuse. Other than the large number of screws to remove the oven and the sheet metal coverings, replacing the fuse was mostly about waiting to get the part. If I had a local dealer with the fuse, I probably could have been baking Deep Dark Chocolate Cheesecake that same evening. Even so, this particular repair should be left to those familiar with doing moderate-level handyman type repairs. You have to make sure the breaker is off and beware of the sharp edges on sheet metal. Fortunately, the fuse was easy to find using online documentation for my model. Part Select was very helpful when my original order did not arrive. Their customer service was great!