GAK26TC Amana Range - Instructions

i read other stories and found after checking rotating heat switch with ohm meter found the igniter was the problem, pulled up on door and it came off, found bottom of oven pulled up and out, removed wing nut from deflector and two bolts and one wiring connector, just reversed removal to install new igniter and all complete, took about 20 minutes,

I took out the oven racks. There are 2 cross head screws and 1 screw with a hex head holding the igniter. Pulling out the igniter carefully and the wire nuts also came out. Replaced the wires using the existing wirenuts and slid the igniter into place. Replaced the 3 screws and DONE. Wish the igniters were a little cheaper as this is the third one to go weak. The new one draws about 3.2 amps while the old one only drew 2.85Amps, not enough to open the gas valve. Oven works Fine now. Thanks parts select for the rapid delivery.

I just ordered a new wire oven rack from you. When it came all I had to do was to remove it from the carton it came in and place it in the oven. It fit perfectly. Thanks

Removed oven door. Removed three screws on ignitor holding bracket. Pulled out the range from the wall and reached underneath to access the wire nuts on the wires. Removed old ignitor and replaced with new one. Reconnected wires and then and replaced bracket and that's it. Works great now.

I called the local appliance parts store and they said it would cost $60-80 and take a week to order. I paid $16 and received my rack in 2 days!

Removed the ice brucket,
Removed the light shield by releasing one screw using a nutdriver.
Replacing the bulb and reinstalled the light shield.

Your web site is one of the best and most helpfull service sites I ever used. Just wish that in the future you will ship parts overseas.

Replaced the existing ignitor by removing the bottom drip pan/gas line/ignitor (apprimately 18 screws), unscrewing the wire nuts, removing the old ignitor, connecting the wires to the new ignitor, and reinstalling the drip pan/gas line/ignitor (18 screws).

My husband took the oven door off then the bottom piece below the shelf took the old ignigter out put the new on in and now I have an oven again.

Un plug elect. Cord. Remove door by pulling upward removed back stove panel, un did 2 wire nuts leading to igniter. Un screw igniter inside oven at top next to burner pad. Interchanged old ignitor with new plug stove back in. Thats it.

I slid out the oven burner disconected the old igniter and replaced it with the new one & slid back in place and connected the two wires and I was back in business. The job was relativly an easy one.

For the third time in less than a year I had to replace the broiler igniter. The range is 27 years old and has given us excellent service. When the igniter failed it's replacement lasted 3 months. The next replacement lasted about 6 months. This last replacement has been in service about 1 week. We shall see. The last one had an open wire within the ceramic mould. There was continuity from one wire, through the black portion, but not to the second wire. It seems like it was a fault in manufacturing.

Although this was not a repair I wanted to let you know your service was outstanding and the price quite reasonable. I am very happy to finally have a much needed second rack in my oven that was not there when I purchased my home. Thank You

Disconnected dryer from vent and power receptacle, placed dryer on its back and remove the front panel by removing screws along the bottom of the panel and pulling down on the panel. Below the drum the element mounting plate was visible so I removed the sensor and element wires, removed the element mounting screws and pulled the element down and out of its "duct". I installed the new element and replaced the wires and front panel. That's all folks!

Disconnect power and pulled the lower front panel off unit (2 screws).
I used a ohm meter and found heater coil open. Ordered correct part online (easy to find it on the web site).
Three days later, new part in hand I unplugged the failed unit's wiring and removed the heating unit (2 screws). Installed the new part, connected wires and reinstalled the four screws.
Engaged power and turned the dryer on. Vent pie had heat, so placed wet clothes in unit and ran a dryer cycle. Works like new. Cost was about $65.00 versus the $500.00 for a new dryer.

Daughter and family came to visit Gramps for the weekend; Saturday morning, arose and opened a couple of cans of grand buscuits. Set aside to let rise then turned oven on to preheat. Came back later and oven did not work. Stove top worked, broiler worked, but no oven. What to do, didn't want to waste dough; perhaps salvage for dumplings, no; make poorboy doughnuts, no; Aha, lets use the outside gas grill, never done it, worth the try, remember old camping days except using gas. Worked like a charm, crisis over. Now back to oven. Since everything worked except the oven burner problem could be in the igniter, or oven control. Removed covers to burner assembly, pulled igniter, checked for continuity across the two leads. No go. Wait, need to check oven control, placed voltmeter across incomming leads, turned oven controls on and had voltage. Conclusion, igniter bad. Also noticed a small rust hole in the burner tube next to igniter, not good. Went on-line to PartsSelect, entered make and model number. No model but gave choice close to model. Viewed pictures, found one that came close. Placed order. Parts came in a very short time. Matched new parts to old. perfect. Removed burner tube and installed new one, one screw, simple. Wire nut the incomming leads to igniter and install, three screws, simple. Turned oven on, igniter glows bright, gas comes on, good blue flame, no need to adjust air inlet vents on burner tube. Turned off oven, replaced covers, then turned on oven, baked cornbread and enjoyed. Thanks, back in business. Dave