FRS6LF7JS3 Frigidaire Refrigerator - Instructions

swap filter

In my specific appliance the water valve is located in the bottom right hand corner looking at it from the back. To get to it I remove the thin layer of cardboard the covers the back of the fridge. I then proceeded to disconnect the 1/4" copper tubing which is the water feed coming out of the wall. Then I removed the screws that hold the valve assembly in place. I took the water valve out and removed the electrical connections as well as the plastic tubing which feed the water dispenser and the ice maker. To install the new water valve it was just a matter of reversing steps.

Replaced bottom door bin being careful not to put stress on the tabs to fit into molded area in door.

Easy slide it back in place

We live in rural SW Missouri, so I am very dependent on the internet. I found PartSelect on a Google search and simply inputted the modle number and serial number for the refrigerator and there it was. I was able to order the right part the first time and repair the refrigerator myself! No serviceman needed here!

Used pliers to remove the residual broken stud that was still attached to the wall of the refrigerator, and then just pushed the new part in place. The longest time was spent in removing the food and crisper drawers.

Even though my wife said that our icemaker broke, there was actually nothing wrong with it. It was the valve that let water flow in during the 'harvest' cycle.
A real easy way to test the icemaker without voltage and current measurements, is to fill the tray by hand with a little cup of water; wait till the water freezes and see if the maker dumped the ice into the bin.

The website was easy to navigate. Loved the schematic drawings of the appliance, it made it easy to find the part you are looking for without the guesswork (part names are sometimes not intuitive). My parts arrived promptly, the price was competitive, everything fit beautifly as expected. Would recommend this merchant, will shop there again. THANKS !

Unplugged the refrigerator. Removed the 4 hex head screws on the lower back panel at the back of the freezer. Used a blow dryer to defrost the pipes and area surrounding the thermostat. Unplug the connection from the back of the freezer, unplug the 2 wires, one that goes to the heater, one that comes from power. Unclip the thermostat from the pipe and note which pipe you unclipped it from. Cut the wires on the old thermostat midway between the plugs and the sensor. Using the supplied butt connectors, strip the wire ends on color matched wires (should be a dark blue or black) and crimp them together. Repeat with the other wire. Discard the white shrink wrapping. I wasn't able to get it small enough with a hair dryer or lighter. Plug the thermostat back into it's respective plugs. Clip the thermostat back onto the pipe you removed it from. Replace the back panel with the four screws. Ensure the bottom of the panel is set inside of the drip tray. Replace any shelving you removed. Plug the refrigerator back into the wall. Your done!

Unscrewd the top hinge cove and removed two bolts from the hinge, lifted door off of the bottom hinge and laid the whole door on the floor using a beach towel to protect it from scratches. Unbolted the bottom hinge plate, replaced it with the new one. Then pulled out the old hinge bearing and replaced with a new one. Installed the door back on the bottom hinge while the magnet on the door strip held it place and rebolted the the upper hinge and reinstalled the hinge cover. All done in less than 10 minutes. No more popping sounds when I open and close the door!

Unplugged faulty ice maker, removed two screws holding it to the refrigerator and took it out. Reversed the operation with the new ice maker and after a few minutes presto, we have ice.

I removed the fan housing in the freezer section by removing all the screws. (7) There are two screws behind the vents. I did not have an ice maker to contend with so this was very easy. There is only two wires to disconnect....the ground wire and the electricity supply. Then you remove the unit from the back of the housing cover by removing two screws. Then the motor is removed from it's housing by removing 2 more screws. 1...2...3 and you're ready to reverse the procedure. I am not mechanically inclined and this was easy. Saved myself perhaps $120.00. Repair folks wanted mininum of $60.00 just to come out. Part and shipping cost me 33 bucks.OH, DON'T FORGET TO UNPLUG THE FRIDGE. :>)

First I replaced the Defrost Thermostat on the coil and this did not fix the problem. So I ordered this new ADC (Adaptive Defrost Control)board.
It is not identical to the first ADC board and at least one feature the old ADC did was deleted from the function of the Fridge. Not sure why?
Because the board were different a new wiring harness was provided.
Step 1. Unplug the unit and remove the water filter.
Step 2. Remove the covers off of the unit on the top of the fridge using the 1/4" nut driver and a 1/4" deep well socket with extension for the deeper inset fasteners. This exposes the wiring harness and the ADC board as well as the temperature controls.
step 3. Remove the screws for the ADC on the cover and remove the wiring harness from it. No need to note the wire's positions as the new ADC uses a different connector.
step 4. As you remove each connection of the wire harness from the unit replace that connection with then new harness connector to eliminate any confusion. Do each one. One by one until the old harness is completely loose and the new harness is completely installed.
step 5. Install new ADC which in my case was now enclosed in an orange case. Unlike the one I removed that was and open pcb.
Step 6. Replace covers using the 1/4" nut driver and 1/4" wrench.
Step 7. Replace filter and plug in unit.

Apparently there have been 4 versions of this ADC board through the years. My fridge was built in 2003 not long before I bought it.

No tools needed. Just had to slide the bin into place. HOWEVER, the bin has a jig-jagged style plastic groves on each side that need to be slide carefully into place. I couldn't get the orginal bin out in order to wash it. It looked easy - just slide it up and out of place, but when I did that the back, inter-locking pieces cracked off. I believe this is a terrible design and the bin should be replaced at the manufactures cost! The other bin slide in there with some elbow-grease. Good Luck!

If you think you probably can't do this, you're like me... but you just had to try because you needed the part anyway right? This really was quite simple, a lot easier than it sounds from the description and saved me probably $75 I'd have had to pay a tech to do it. Just unplug fridge, yank that water spill tray out, yes yank, it's a bit hard to do that if you've not done it before. After that remove the 3 phillips head screws you just gained access to. Lift panel frame up then out. Disconnect wire harness plug and set that frame aside. Take out next screws exposed to free the unit. Tilt unit out and remove the two little screws and shims holding actuator in place. Remove broken one. Put new one in. Reverse all actions taken thus far. Plug fridge back in and have a drink of water like nothing ever happened. : ) You can do this!