FFLG2022MW2 Frigidaire Washer Dryer Combo - Instructions

I read the others repair story and it was a easy repair, my wife had a repairman come out and check it already, he stated to her that it was a major repair and that he needed to take it to the shop for repair, well he was full of sh##!!! The unit is a stackable washer dryer,if the screws inside the drum backout, the belt comes off and caused mine to brake the belt,my wife found the 2 small screws in the bottom of the tub,theres a small cover on the back that you remove and you can see belt drive pully! Follow the directions that have been explained on others listed it"s easy!!! Mike

First I took sides off the washer. I then took screws out of the Drain pump holder. Unclamped the two pipes from it. Undid the wires to then drain pump. Screw in the new pump hardware. Plugged in the wires on side of the pump. Reclamped the pipes. Put sides back on washer and it worked. That easy and took less then 30 minutes. I am no handy man so thats how easty it was.

I've always been a "do it yourselfer". If I can fix it, I save money. I took the dryer apart by lifting the top up like car hood. Then I removed the front panel. The front drum glide snapped into place easily where the other one had broken off. The felt strip that you sent was much shorter than the one on the dryer, so once I used the wire wheel to remove the old glue, I cut off the section of the felt that was bad and replaced it with the new felt. The turns much quieter and clothing doesnt get caught behind the drum anymore.

Make Sure Dryer is off and disconnected from power! Also, beware of sharp edges on dryer parts and cabinet.
1) Popped-off top lid with flat-blade screw driver (Insert screw driver in joint between top and front of dryer above door) Spring clips are all that's holding top on in front
2) Unplugged plastic electrical connector located just along the top-right side of dryer
3) Removed one sheet metal screw located about 8" down from top on either side of dryer - total of two screws
4) Pull front of dryer back and pull up at bottom of dryer (Remember that when you replace front you will have to make sure plastic bearing surfaces on dryer tub are centered back in cut-out on front panel. Plastic tabs fit inside the cut-out or else you'll ge a swishing noise when tub rotates)
5) Set front panel to side
6) Flame sensor is located on the left side of the burn chamber sheet metal cover. It has a red and white wire with flat connectors that must be pulled off. Note which color goes to what terminal
7) Unscrew fastener. Note: this screw/fastener needs a non-standard driver to get it out. I have a variety of other drivers beyond phillips/flat types and non of them worked.
8) I ended up using a pair of pliers to just work it out from under the screw. I bent it, as it has a tab that slips in along left bottom edge of burn chamber cover.
9) Finish taking screw out by hand
10) Put new flame sensor in by inserting tab on bottom first. Then, screw in fastener to top of sensor bracket and reconnect wires. White on top and red on bottom terminal.
11) Replace front panel with door by placing in tabs on bottom front of dryer. Again, make sure plastic bearing surfaces are inside of circular flange on front panel
12) Make sure to reconnect plastic cable connector. Note: I added a tie-wrap because it looked like the connector might rub against drum. There are some holes through which you can run the tie-wrap
13) Replace the two sheet-metal screws
14) Push top down so spring clips re-engage with dryer body

unplugged the dryer, discontected the sensor and unscrewed the bracket, replaced the new one and put the connectors back on, screwed the bracket back on and that was it. Very easy fix for a female who does not do much of these sort of repairs but learning.

I opened the top of the dryer to gain access to the outside of the drum. Then I removed the screws holding the old drum veins in using the electric drill with the nut driver attachment. Then I positioned the new veins in place on the inside of the drum and replaced the screws from the outside of the drum to hold the veins in place. Then I replaced the top and was ready to go.

This is the third repair that I have done using parts from parts select. the other two repairs involved replacing electrical parts. Specifically thermostatic controls or swicthes. I am very happy with the parts and the diagrams provided on your web site without wich I would have had to replace my dryer a long time ago.

Unplugged the dryer from electrical socket. Vacuumed lint from dryer and exit hose. Removed top from dryer. Used pliers to remove the 2 wires from the thermal limiter. Used screwdriver to remove 2 screws that held the limiter in place.
Installed the new limiter, connected the 2 wires, plugged in the dryer's electrical connection, turned on dryer, and resumed my "washday chores".

1) Unplug the unit.
2) Remove all screws from top of the unit except for the one in the center front that does not go through the outer casing.
3) Find the Thermal Limiter which is on the back wall near the top on the left side when looking from the front.
4) Disconnect the two wires
5) Remove the two screws that mount the limiter to the back wall.
6) Use an ohmeter to test if a current flows through the unit. If no current flows through (an open switch), then the unit will need to be replaced.
7) Clean any lint that you can at this point.
8) Use two screws to mount new Thermal Limiter
9) Reconnect the two wires to the Limiter.
10) Attach the top of the dryer case.

All the symptoms indicated the thermister (located in the exhaust air stream of the dryer) was the problem. Pulled the lower panel off the dryer. Took out the two lower screws holding the door panel on so I could pull the front panel out just enough to get a screwdriver on the screws holding the thermister on. Unhooked the two wires connected to it and hooked them to the new thermister(no need to observe polarity). Put the new thermister in, screwed the door panel back down, put the lower panel on and started drying clothes.

This unit is a stackable washer&dryer,so first pull unit away from wall atleast 4 foot. Unplug power cord,then take10 dagree front panel off then the control panel off and unplug the 5 connetors if your unit has that many,then lay panel asside. Take dryer door off,makes it easier when putting it all back together. Now take front panel off and the dryer lent tube,now just take the 3 center phillips head screws out and slide drum out. Pull upward on what they call the shaft which held drum on. Now these are the parts you should order. Belt,grounding ball clip,grounding ball,drum support bearing,bearing bracket,and most important part is the shaft. The shaft is ur insurance for the whole job. Use a good grease like white lithium grease and coat the shaft end and the drum support bearing. The grease will cut down on friction for a while,and re assemble the way you took apart. Reminder grounding ball goes behind drum support bearing not in front. Good luck and please vaccum.

After reading about similar problems people have had with this make of dryer, I focused attention on the thermal limiter. I determined that it was the culprit by "jumping" it with a 6" piece of wire. Then I simply went on the site, ordered the part. It arrived a few days later and I pulled out the old one, screwed in the new one, and the dryer is good as new.

First I removed the two screws that hold the pump in place. I then pulled the pump out and replaced it with the new pump.

White Westinghouse WDG547PB Dryer. Removed access panel (lower left front of dryer) by removing phillips head screw below access panel. Removed two phillips head screws holding bracket that holds coil in place. Removed coil, disconnected electrical connector. Connected electrical connector to new coil and set in place. Repeat for second coil. Reinstall bracket and access panel. Job complete. Dryer back in service with no problems.

i removed the front panel, then removed the old pump by taking off the clamps and disconnected the wiring. The new pump had to be reversed before connecting, but it was so easy.

1. Removed face of dryer (drum 'holder')
2. Disconnected door switch wires
3. Tore off existing felt

NOTE: The length of the felt that I recieved from PartSelect was incorrect (too short). Since the existing felt was worn and torn at the top, I replaced only a length that matched the length of the new felt.

4. Used a razor blade-type gasket remover/scraper to remove the exisitng glue
5. Applied new glue (which comes with the felt) onto the felt and let it set up

NOTE: In hindsite, I would apply the glue to the drum holder instead, as the glue otherwise soaks into the felt. If applied to the drum holder instead, the glue will spread out and provide more surface area for adherence.

6. Installed the new felt, starting at one end and working my way around to the other end, being careful not to stretch it
7. Trimmed the remainder of the existing felt (see first NOTE)
8. Scraped the drum holder below the pulled away ends of the exisitng felt
9. Applied glue to the existing felt, including the trrimmed ends so that the ends do not pull away from the ends of the new felt
10. Re-attached the existing felt
11. Let the glue set-up overnight
12. Reinstalled the face of the dryer, turning the drum so that the felt will not get pushed away
13. Reconnected the door switch wires
14. Turned dryer on, with lid still raised, to check for any drifting of the felt
15. Once assured that the felt would stay in place, put the dryer in service

NOTE: I replaced the felt becasue of the gap that opened due to compression of the felt. The gap, as well as a torn piece of the felt that entered the interior of the drum, was catching clothes and tearing them as they were rotated between the drum and the drum holder. The new felt eliminated this problem.