FED300WCW2 Frigidaire Range - Instructions

I could not find the larger size universal drip bowl to fit the 8" burners on my stove. This product replacement is perfect.

unplugged the elements, removed drip pans, replaced with new drip pans. plugged back in elements. took no skills or effort. the parts were ordered on-line one afternoon and were on my doorstep the next morning. I had been unable to find drip pans that fit my stove and was thrilled that they fit and came so quickly and were reasonably priced.

First I want to thank Part Select for having the video online or I would not have attempted the repair. Also I saved over $75 on the parts!!!!!! It would have cost me $105 for parts and $125 for service tech to replace the burned off terminal blocks with new ones. Parts cost me $35 with shippiing, I did the repair saving me $195 !!!!!!!!! I replaced the parts as describied in the video and all is well. By the way, I got the parts in less than 24hours after ordering, cheaper than driving 30 miles to pick up overpriced parts !!!!

Reviewed the online repair video a few times then got started. Although only two were bad, I replaced all four terminal blocks. I removed the range top instead of using the built in kick stands. this left me much more room to work and I was able to clean the top of the range really well before getting started. Wires for the back terminals where short and a little difficult to use after cutting off the old terminal blocks. The terminal block mounting option for my style range included with the repair kit would not allow me to utilize the screw for the third wire on the left rear burner. I used a drill to carefully widen the hole in the mount to make the original screw fit as there are no screws included with the kit. This added the extra time to complete the repair. Over all the repair was simple to complete but having to modify the terminal block mount was dissapointing considering the web site selected parts for my specific model number. Still a bargain compared to what a service call or new purchase costs. I will be reparing my ranges from now on.

I previously replaced terminal blocks and elements so the infinite switch was the last stop before new purchase. I reviewed the online repair video. Unplugged the range and removed the three screws from the rear of the control panel. I Removed the knobs then removed two screws to release the front plate behind the knobs. I removed the two screws securing switch #1 and compaired to the new parts before removing wires. Wire locations were labled the same but in different sequence. I located the knob adapter for my knobs and set them asside. At first I thought the rod coming out of the new switch was too long and then figured out that the indentions allong the rod were to be broken off to the correct length. ( re-reading the included instructions was nearly useless - - not in plain language ) I used a pair of vice-grips clamped just below the length of rod I wanted to break off and it snapped off easily and cleanly for the most part. ( A word to the wise, this is some really soft metal at the breaks along the rod. I attempted a second break on one switch after mounting in the control panel and the thing broke off at the short end - - scary ) luckily I was still able to use it with my knobs and adapters. I relocated the switch wires to the new switch one at a time matching label to label ( L1, L2, H1, H2, P) then mounted the new switch into the control panel. I re-assembled the range and it is heating better than ever. Well worth the effort and minimal expense compared to a service call or replacement range.

repair was pretty simple. i pulled stove out from cabinet and unplugged it. Then i removed the screws that hold the face panel in place and gently slid out panel as far as i could without damaging wires. i had to remove the small switches that control the two two size burners as well as one thermostat on the right side so i can access the nuts holding the plastic end caps in place. i diagramed the color coded wires so i didnt mix them up.took off the old end caps replaced with new caps and put back together.. took about a half hour as this was my first time inside the guts of this stove.. stove is baack in place and as good as new again.

Very easy to remove the old drip bowl and replace with new ones.

This repair was easy, but I would not have even tried if I hadn't read the tips from other DIYers - thanks! The website questions and schematic along with some common sense testing isolated the problem with the oven only heating up to 250 degrees. Since the broiler (upper element) worked ok, that made it likely that the temperature sensor was not the problem. That made almost certain that the bake (cooking) element was the problem. So, I ordered the part, which was delivered quickly. Early on the morning of the scheduled delivery date, I turned off the oven power at the fuse box and pulled the oven away from the wall. There were only 4 screws to remove in order to take off the rear panel. The bake element was attached to two slide-on connectors, one of which looked charred and partially disconnected. I cleaned the charred connector, reattached it to the bake element, turned the power back on, and then turned the oven on. The charred connection glowed, so I immediately turned off the oven and the power. I disconnected the bad connector, cut it off from the wire, and stripped the wire to prepare for a new connector, which cost 30 cents at the hardware store. The bake element connection was cleaned, and then the new connector was attached. The power was turned back on, and then the oven was turned on, and it heated perfectly. After confirming several heatings over several hours, the rear panel was reattached, and the oven was pushed back to the wall. This expensive 40" dual fuel oven had been purchased new and used for 3 years by the prior owners of our home. The oven's computer brain died when the oven was 7 years old - the repair cost us $500 for professional labor, parts, and materials. I don't know if I could have done that repair, but I had no intention of shelling that much again, which is why I tried this bake element repair myself. The oven is now 11 years old, and the most likely part to fail is the original bake element. So, we may keep the new part as insurance with the hope of making a fast, easy, inexpensive repair when the original bake element eventually fails.

watched a U-Tube video on this subject.....worked like aa charm!!

We removed the screws holding the old element. Pulled the old element out of the back of the oven and disconnected the connecters (they just pull off). Slipped the connecters to the new element and pushed the element back in the oven wall and installed the screws. The only hard thing was removing the screws, because they had been in the oven for 15 years and were a little corroded.

Very simply following the online video instructions.

After two failed attempts to get the 'correct' drip pans for my range from two other supply outlets, Part Select had the proper drip pans for this model. They fit perfectly! Simple installation and threw away those cheap, poorly fitting replacement pans I've put up with for three years! Thanks Part Select for having the correct parts!!

The parts came quickly. I removed old drip pans and snapped the new ones into place. A child could do this. Now my cooktop looks new and I am not ashamed for anyone to see it.

was very easy to replace the element, just pulled the old element out and eased the replacement in. was happy to find partselect.com to order what i needed. the order was filled correctly & delivered in a few day. it was good to be able to review how other problems could be solved & what parts to order

I did the repair in less then 5 minutes. I took out old element and put in new one and turned it on and I had heat. Works great Thanks the part came in 2 days what a wonderful suprise that was.