FED300WCW2 Frigidaire Range - Instructions

Broil worked on the stove, however in bake mode, the oven did not make temperature. Turned off the stove, unscrewed and inspected coil. I noted there was a section of the coil that had a "corroded" appearance. (it was evidence of the coil being burned out). Checked with a ($9.00) voltmeter, showed infinite resistance. Found the original envelop for the stove taped to the back of the oven from 1973. It has wiring diagram with schematic and noted the coil was 3000 W, 19 ohms.

Bottom Line found comparable replacement online and tested resistance, measure dimensions of the old coil, matched with Watt rating, replaced, tested installed and works great, Oven has been in use for a couple weeks now. New stove would have been around $500.00. Not to mention some remodel work, as the house is old and stove is a built in.

Coil was $60.00 and should buy the time I need until I remodel the entire kitchen.

Just placed the chrome bowl trays in place and was good to go. They look very nice.

Pulled out the old light on the front of the door house where the door closes and replaced the door light switch

Husband very ill in bed. It's up to me!! Got a new bulb at HomeDepot and figured out how to get that wire 'thing' back in and the new glass cover installed. I DID IT!! WOW! My husband has always done these jobs around the house.......but now it's up to me.......and I'm not so dumb after all! I DID IT!! Now everyone who comes in the house.....I show them what I DID!! :-)

Took out the bad element and replaced it with the new element in less than 5 minutes, worked perfect, thanks

searched on the computer for the name and part number that was damaged, found that it was the bake element so i ordered it with part select.com. when it arriver three days later (as expected) i disconnected the gas and electric to the range and simply removed the old element with a phillips screw driver. installed the new element, hooked the gas and electric back up and began cooking again...

thanks partselect..

I started to smell burning electrical smell from the burner area and heard a "buzzing" sound from the burner control while the burner was on. Pulled the element and noticed that the wire coil end of the left element was burned and pitted from arcing.
Pulled the range top up, used a phillips screwdriver to remove the terminal block clip from the range top. Upon inspecting the burner terminal block, I saw the brass wiper was missing from one side of the left slot, and there was considerable heat damage around the slot opening.
The terminal block being replaced was already replaced earlier for the same problem. The appliance repair folks recommended that we use light cookware on the burner. Instead, ensure both element leads are fully inserted into the terminal block.
I turned the power off at the breaker, used a utility knife to carefully slit the heat shrink tubing on the existing replacement, unscrewed the ceramic wirenuts, removed the old block, straightened out the range wires, slid the new heatshrink over the range wires, then twisted the new terminal block wires to the range wires. Screwed on the ceramic wirenuts, slid the heatshrink tubing over the wirenuts, and used matches to shrink it tight.
The package contains an instruction sheet with simple instructions.
Once the new terminal block was installed and the element terminals were fully seated, the "buzzing" from the burner control disappeared.

Generally straight forward repair with the most difficulty coming from the screws holding the element in place being rusted. Took some wd40 and some snub-nosed pliers to get them out. The wire connections on the back of the element are pretty self explanatory. Lightbulb was an easy change though the bulb connection had also rusted a bit and required some pliers to remove.

Pulled out the range, unplugged it and removed the upper back panel. The switches were held in place with two screws. Removed the old switches, detached the wires and plugged them into the new switches. Mounted the new switches, replaced the back panel, plugged the range back in and pushed it back into position. Appliance repair company wanted $370. I did it in 45 min. for less than $100.

Unplug range, remove top back panel. Remove knob. Replacement part is different, but if you look closely, each metal tab has a number stamped on the plastic housing directly beneth it. Remove old switch (2 screws)and remove and replace wires one at a time. You will need to cut the "one size fits all" metal shaft that the knob attaches to. We had to remove most of it, leaving only 2 "segments". File rough edges and apply vaseline so that the plastic sleeve will slip right on. We used the shorter sleeve (only 2 that are supplied will fit the knob). Replace unit and screw in. Replace knob.

Removed heating elements and replaced drip pans. And by the way, this is the only 'pans' I could find to fit. Thanks.

Removed the wires that I could, then terminal block. Installing the new terminal block was very easy; however the wires that arced were fused to the terminal bock screws and needed to be cut and new connectors had to be put on the wires to allow them to be reattached to the block safely.
Once all was replaced and reinstalled the oven has worked great. The length of the repair was increased because of the melted parts and having to run to the store to get the new wire connectors big enough to fit on the wires. If we were simply replacing the block and had not encountered the melted ends, it would have been a very quick and easy repair.

I just took the old ones out and replaced them with the new ones. It took less than 5 minutes.

2 screws disconnected old one and pulled out the new one in put in opposite way. The representative was so helpful, part came fast. thank you

Just pulled the old cook top burner out and put the new one in .it took about 1 1/2 minutes