FDE436RES1 Frigidaire Dryer - Instructions
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Glides and felt worn out. Rust spots on clothing and clothes with strings getting caught.
First, I read the other posts and got a good idea as to how to do it. I needed to replace the upper felt and guides but decided to go ahead and replace the lower felt and the bearing holder as well. If I had been thinking I would have replaced the belt at the same time but, oh well.
Disconnect the electric plug from the wall.
Pop the top using a medium sized flat head screwdriver.
Disconnect the wiring harness at right front of the unit.
Remove the two screws near the top of the front panel and squeez the retaining clips. You may need a pair of pliers for this but be gentle.
Pull straight up on the front panel to remove it.
To get to the bearing holder, remove the drum by first removing the access panel located at the rear of the dryer and removing the belt from the springloaded plastic pulley. With no tension on the belt simply pull up on the drum while also pulling slightly forward. The drum will pop right out but you will have to apply some pressure. There is no need to remove the three screws at the back of the drum on the inside.
Once the drum is out, remove the two screws holding the bearing holder and remove the assembly being careful not to lose the single ball bearing at the rear of the assembly. Pay attention as to how the assembly goes together.
Scrape off the old felt and glue. Like everyone else, I used a chisle and some GOOP. The old felt came right off with little effort and the GOOP cleaned off the old glue with not too much effort.
Apply the glue that comes with the felt glides according to the instructions on the tube. There's plenty to do both upper and lower felt in that tube. I used some spring clamps to firmly set the upper felt. The glue sets in just a few minutes. The lower felt has a bevelled edge that goes toward the door and fits into a groove on the panel. Once the glue is set you you are ready to put it back together. Like everyone else, I took the time to vacuum out the interior of the dryer and collect the coins and buttons that had accumulated. I found it very easy to reinstall the bearing holder assembly by myself by working from the side of the dryer. I put a dab of grease on the single ball bearing to hold it in place while I reinstalled the assembly. Put some grease in the bearing holder and reinstall the drum, then the front panel and belt. Put the belt back on the tensioner and take care of the couple of lose end and you're done.
This is a "no big deal" repair that looks worse than it is. It took me about 2.5 hours to complete and I was taking my time and just enjoying the fact that I was doing it myself.
Disconnect the electric plug from the wall.
Pop the top using a medium sized flat head screwdriver.
Disconnect the wiring harness at right front of the unit.
Remove the two screws near the top of the front panel and squeez the retaining clips. You may need a pair of pliers for this but be gentle.
Pull straight up on the front panel to remove it.
To get to the bearing holder, remove the drum by first removing the access panel located at the rear of the dryer and removing the belt from the springloaded plastic pulley. With no tension on the belt simply pull up on the drum while also pulling slightly forward. The drum will pop right out but you will have to apply some pressure. There is no need to remove the three screws at the back of the drum on the inside.
Once the drum is out, remove the two screws holding the bearing holder and remove the assembly being careful not to lose the single ball bearing at the rear of the assembly. Pay attention as to how the assembly goes together.
Scrape off the old felt and glue. Like everyone else, I used a chisle and some GOOP. The old felt came right off with little effort and the GOOP cleaned off the old glue with not too much effort.
Apply the glue that comes with the felt glides according to the instructions on the tube. There's plenty to do both upper and lower felt in that tube. I used some spring clamps to firmly set the upper felt. The glue sets in just a few minutes. The lower felt has a bevelled edge that goes toward the door and fits into a groove on the panel. Once the glue is set you you are ready to put it back together. Like everyone else, I took the time to vacuum out the interior of the dryer and collect the coins and buttons that had accumulated. I found it very easy to reinstall the bearing holder assembly by myself by working from the side of the dryer. I put a dab of grease on the single ball bearing to hold it in place while I reinstalled the assembly. Put some grease in the bearing holder and reinstall the drum, then the front panel and belt. Put the belt back on the tensioner and take care of the couple of lose end and you're done.
This is a "no big deal" repair that looks worse than it is. It took me about 2.5 hours to complete and I was taking my time and just enjoying the fact that I was doing it myself.
Parts Used:
-
Michael from Snellville, GA
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
-
Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers, Socket set
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Dryer not heating
UNPLUG DRYER (this is key) Removed the top of dryer. used screwdriver and pliers to remove two screws and electrical connections then reinstalled new part stick the magnet behind the part to the back of the dryer to help control the small screws.
Parts Used:
-
Steve from COVINGTON, KY
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
May not have to take out the whole drum to replace the limiter!
After lifting the dryer top and finding the location of the thermal limiter on the back of the dryer, where it is difficult to get at, I carefully cut through the dryer cabinet with the multimaster on three sides to form a 'flap' upon which the limiter was mounted. By prying this flap open from the back, the two wires and two screws are easily accessible to replace the limiter, without having to remove the whole drum. Afterwards, I just bent the flap back into place and taped the seams. If it ever blows again, the fix will take all of about two minutes.
Parts Used:
-
Timothy from CRANBURY, NJ
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Pliers, Screw drivers
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Both knobs were broken
Ordered knobs on Monday early. Received midday Tuesday! Very fast delivery. Knobs fit perfectly, no tools required.
Parts Used:
-
LAURA from MORGAN, TX
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
No problem
-
Terrance from MENOMONIE, WI
-
Difficulty Level:Very Easy
-
Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Door handle broke and came off.
-
Elizabeth from Mentor, OH
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
It got lost...
It was very, very simple... I just had to find two screws ( that were not included)...no problem...
Parts Used:
-
Kevin from Rome, NY
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Lint filter was wearing out.
Just replaced the new lint filter with the old lint filter. The part fit perfectly. I did not have a problem.
Parts Used:
-
Barbara J. from Lancaster, CA
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Water temperature knob broke
-
Michael from Weston, FL
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
3 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Dryer came on but did not heat.
Replaced the heating element assembly. Problem was still there. Checked the electrical schematic to try to resolve. Everything checked out except the contacts on the motor M-1 to M-2 had no continuity. Removed the switch from the motor and exercised it. Works fine now.
Parts Used:
-
Dale from FALMOUTH, MA
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
-
Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Drum would not spin
After unplugging the dryer, disconnecting it from the vent, and moving into an open work area, I popped the top open with the blade of a screwdriver, disconnected the two wires that connect to the door switch, then lifted the front panel (with the door) up and away from the drum. Next, I lifted the drum out of the worn rear bearing assembly and lowered it into the dryer in order to release tension on the belt. I then removed the entire drum by carrying it forward and out of the way. I then removed the old bearing assembly, which was loose and covered with metal dust. After cleaning the area with a dry cloth to remove the old grease and metal dust, and vacuuming all the lint off *everything*, I installed the new bearing assembly with a 5/16" nut driver, being careful to position the provided ball-bearing between the plastic bearing assembly and the outer clip. The little ball-bearing is very important, as it is the drum's only path to ground, and prevents the build up of static electricity as the drums spins. I then filled the new bearing assembly with the provided grease. Everything is easy up to this point, but the difficult part for me was removing the old hub from the drum and re-attaching the new one. It is held on by three screws and they become seated very tightly. After loosening them and removing the old hub from the drum, attaching the new one prvoed difficult as well, as the screw-holes in the new hub are not threaded to fit the screws. The screws muct be forced to cut a thread as you install them, which requires a great deal of force. After installing the new hub and putting the new belt (pruchased separately) around the drum, the next step is to reinstall the drum by lifting it in through the front of the dryer and positioning the new hub over the new bearing assembly and pressing it down into place. It will gently "snap" into place as it seats. Then, on the back side of the dryer, I removed the vent panel by removing the two screws that hold it in place and positioned the new drive belt (loosely dangling around the drum) over the motor's drive wheel and behind the sring-tensioned idle arm. Then it is a simply matter to reinstall the front panel by genly lifting the drum and sliding the door opening inside it, then reseating all the little clips that hold the front panel in place. I then pressed the top back into place, reconnected the vent hose, plugged it back in and checked for operation. My fifteen year-old dryer now works like new!
Parts Used:
-
garland from Morganton, NC
-
Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
-
Total Repair Time:30 - 60 mins
-
Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers
3 of 5 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
dryer drum quit turning
followed the instructions video on the site had no problems just took about 2 hrs to complete
Parts Used:
-
FRANK from VERO BEACH, FL
-
Difficulty Level:A Bit Difficult
-
Total Repair Time:More than 2 hours
-
Tools:Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Socket set, Wrench set
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
dryer heat did not work
The how to video was great. I had a little problem with getting the belt back on the pulleys. Not enough room for my hands. I did manage to get it back on ,and runs great
Parts Used:
-
Mark from HGHLNDS RANCH, CO
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:1- 2 hours
-
Tools:Screw drivers
2 of 2 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
loud squeeling noise
After changing the drum support bearing, and the front felt ring, the noise continued. It turned out to be the tensioner pully. The harmonic vibration travels throughout the dryer box like an instrument so you can't tell where the sound is comming from. Before you do anything, spray a little wd40 between the bushing and the shaft on the belt tenioner pully. If the squeel goes away, you have found your smoking gun.
Parts Used:
-
Lewis from Thornton, CO
-
Difficulty Level:Really Easy
-
Total Repair Time:Less than 15 mins
-
Tools:Nutdriver, Pliers, Screw drivers
2 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!
Dryer stopped Heating
Ordered in new Element. (took apart dryer first and verified the coil on the old element was broken).
-Disconnected power
-Used flat blade screw driver and popped the top of the dryer off (two clips at front of the dryer on the door piece). Pull lid back and it will rest on its own.
-Removed two screws on the inside of the front door panel then used flat blade to pop four clips off. Lift up then out to removed door panel, drum will fall down.
-Removed small white plastic rest from front frame.
-Removed back silver vent to access motor. Pull the belt tensor away from assembly and pull belt out.
-Remove drum by grabbing belt and front of drum and forcing it up until it releases from the ball housing. Slide drum out of the front of frame/dryer.
-From here you can see the heating element. disconnect the coil wires (pull them). These are in series so it doesn't matter how they go back on. Disconnect the thermostat wires (X is negative lead).
-Removed the four screws from the back of the dryer to disengaged the element. Removed.
-Reassemble backwards.
-Disconnected power
-Used flat blade screw driver and popped the top of the dryer off (two clips at front of the dryer on the door piece). Pull lid back and it will rest on its own.
-Removed two screws on the inside of the front door panel then used flat blade to pop four clips off. Lift up then out to removed door panel, drum will fall down.
-Removed small white plastic rest from front frame.
-Removed back silver vent to access motor. Pull the belt tensor away from assembly and pull belt out.
-Remove drum by grabbing belt and front of drum and forcing it up until it releases from the ball housing. Slide drum out of the front of frame/dryer.
-From here you can see the heating element. disconnect the coil wires (pull them). These are in series so it doesn't matter how they go back on. Disconnect the thermostat wires (X is negative lead).
-Removed the four screws from the back of the dryer to disengaged the element. Removed.
-Reassemble backwards.
Parts Used:
-
Ted from Mountain Home, ID
-
Difficulty Level:Easy
-
Total Repair Time:15 - 30 mins
-
Tools:Screw drivers
2 of 3 people
found this instruction helpful.
Was this instruction helpful to you?
Thank you for voting!