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FDE216RES0 Frigidaire Dryer - Instructions

All Instructions for the FDE216RES0
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Heating element went
Tried to follow the directions of others but ran into a problem with getting the top panel off. This is how I did it.
1 Disconnect power and dryer vent tube. Move away from wall.
2 Remove slotted access panel in back of dryer and take belt off motor and idler pulley. Leave on drum.
3 Unscrew the screws on the back of the top panel brackets( mine are silver) where they screw into the back panel and pull up and to the back to get the top panel off. Someone else said to slide a putty knife in the front to release the top but my machine has no spring clips.
4 With the cover off you can see the two heat sensors and I tested them with a multi meter they registered 0 which meant they were OK.
5 Remove the screws that hold the control board on and the plugs that are wired into it making sure that you draw a diagram to remember the wiring. There was a zip tie that I cut to be able to feed the plugs through the hole in the front panel that the wiring must go when the front panel drops down.
6 Remove the screws on the top of the front panel and the screws on the inside of the side panel that hold the front panel secure.
7 A lot goes on on step 7 because the front panel which is hinged drops from the top down to the floor. Diagram and remove all wires there are two green ground wires on the side, Three wires on the door lock, two wires for the light and wires for a moisture sensor. When disconnected feed the control panel plugs and other wires through the hole in the front panel and lift up and out on the front panel it will pop out. Lower it to the floor and let it rest there.
8 Now you can get the drum out of the way by pulling up then out the front where the front panel is now on the floor. Leave the belt on it.
9 Diagram the wiring on the heating element there are connections for the element and the sensor. They gave me a new sensor screwed onto the new heating element. Then unscrew it from the back panel the screws are on the back of the machine.
10 Install is the reverse of the rip down

In hindsight I would have liked to have had the new part before I started the project because the wiring wasn't so fresh in my head a week later when it arrived even with diagrams. Over all it was very simple and took under two hours to complete. I did clean everything I could inside the machine and reglued a couple of the seals that had fallen loose. Works like new and probably went because of overheating with a clogged vent. Lesson... clean your dryer vent every year or sooner.
Parts Used:
Heating Element Assembly
  • Jeff from Newfane, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
10 of 15 people found this instruction helpful.
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Dryer was working, but not drying the clothes.
First, I liked for a reset switch, because I guess some dryers have one. It seems mine doesn't. So that didn't work.

Next I cleaned out the lent build up everywhere. I would suggest doing this if you have a problem or not. It ended up being very little work for great return.

Heating Element had actually broke in half, so I ended up needing to replace it. Really unhooking the little electric prongs was the worst part. The have little tabs that bend down to hold them in place, and they don't really bend back up. So you have to break them out. The only thing with the coil is to make sure it doesn't touch the pan.

I put a new built on only because I had everything open, and had know idea how old it was. It was not hard really. You just need to pay attention to how the old one wraps through everything before taking it off. If it was shredded, and you didn't get to see it first, well then good luck.
Parts Used:
Drum Belt Heating Element Restring Coil with 1/4" Terminals
  • Jeff from Oklahoma City, OK
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
9 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
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Takes multiple cycles to dry clothes
I don't think it would take others as long as it took me.
I had to take the drum out to get to the limiter. And my dryer is in a builtin housing with limited space in front of the dryer - so lots of manuevers to get access.

The limiter was very easy to find, thanks to diagrams on this site. The space between drum and limiter made it impossible to get to the limiter screws without removing drum. Found very helpful drum removal instructions on PartSelect here:

http://www.partselect.com/PS1148434-Frigidaire-134503600-Dryer-Drum-Belt.htm?SourceCode=13&ModelNum=FSE748GFS0

Great site - thank you.
Parts Used:
Thermal Limiter - Limit 220
  • Pamela from Portland, OR
  • Difficulty Level:
    Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
8 of 10 people found this instruction helpful.
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noisy
my motor was making noise i tried to replace the motor but could not get the blower wheel off the motor so i had to buy a blower and housing assy. also... now it works great...
Parts Used:
Drive Motor with Pulley
  • mark from clearfield, PA
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Socket set
8 of 12 people found this instruction helpful.
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Squeaks; rusty spots on clothes
1. Released the front latches under the dryer top and flipped it up.
2. Removed two screws holding the dryer front in place and flipped it down.
3. Tore off old drum glide and lower seal.
4. removed most of the remaining fuzz with sandpaper.
5. Glued the new seals in place.
6. Put everything back together.

All in all, about 30 minutes of effort. I managed to come away with only minor cuts and scrapes.

Much cheaper than a new dryer!
Parts Used:
Upper Drum Glide Front Lower Drum Seal
  • Karen from Springfield, VA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
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dryer squeeking while in use
unplug dryer. lift the top of the dryer up and back. Take the screws out holding the front panel on. One on each side. Disconnect wires from door open stop switch and take front panel off. Remove drive belt from around pulleys and lift drum up and forward out the front of the dryer. I had to replace the plastic and metal holder and the grounding ball also. Remove the shaft from the drum and put he new one on. Put the drum back in, wrap the belt around the drum and set drum in plastic holder. Then just reverse your steps. Fairly easy.
Parts Used:
Drum Belt Rear Drum Bearing Kit
  • Paul from Fort Edward, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
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dryer door part broke
Dryer door would not close, part had broke and fallen in. Once part was received it took less than an minute to put the new one in and I was back in business.

thanks for making it easy to find the part needed. and the delivery was fast!

bonnie J.
Parts Used:
Door Catch
  • Bonnie from Saint Augustine, FL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
7 of 9 people found this instruction helpful.
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dryer stopped in middle of cycle and wouldn't restart
followed video and replaced part( cleaned and vacuumed dryer while I had it apart),relatively easy repair
Parts Used:
Thermal Limiter - Limit 220
  • Michael from HUDSON, NY
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
6 of 6 people found this instruction helpful.
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Rim On Old Drum Broke Off.
Removed the front, door and all. Replaced both upper and lower seals and allowed glue to dry for 24 hours. Removed 3 screws attaching drum to pivot in rear. While drum was out, relubricated pivot seat and ball. Installed new drum which has been re-designed, has strip around entire lip now. Seals are different, so both have to be replaced with ones in kit, supplied tube of glue is not enough to do the job, so used gator glue. Had trouble installing the 3 screws that attach it to the pivot. Finally re-assembled entire front panel and replaced the door. Started the dryer and it worked as new.
Parts Used:
Drum Kit
  • Harry from Greenwood, SC
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    More than 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
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Screeching noise when drying
Rear plastic drum support bearing got worn making the shaft come in contact with the metal bearing bracket. That contact created a groove overtime and eventually snapped the shaft tip off.

Cut power off. Remove all the screws from the front panel. (where the controls are) working from the bottom to the top. Insert putty knife between the dryer and the control panel and push down to release. Carefully disconnect the wire harness.
You will find 2 screws at the bottom and 4 on top holding the dryer door. Remove and expose the drum.
Remove the drive belt
Remove the drum.
You need a 5/16 nut drive to remove the bearing bracket and an extra set of hands to hold the support from the back.
Re-install the parts. I used bearing grease to make it run smoother
Attach the new shaft to the drum and reinstall the drum (its best done with help)

Re install everything back again. And you are done
Parts Used:
Rear Drum Bearing Kit Drum Support Bearing Dryer Drum Bearing Bracket
  • David from Rockville, MD
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
6 of 7 people found this instruction helpful.
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Difficulty starting up
Motor replacement requires removing/releasing the top and front of the dryer, then removing the drum through the front of the dryer. The top is hinged at the rear and the front can be pried up. The front is held by two sheet metal screws that are accessible once the top is lifted up. Three screws hold the drum to the bearing at the rear of the drum. A small access door on the rear panel allows removal of the idler arm and its spring. You will need a socket drive with a short extension to remove the fan assembly from the motor at the front of the dryer, and it has a LEFT-HAND thread. The most difficult part of the replacement, once you figure out how to access everything, is getting the drum re-attached to the bearing at the rear of the drum. It can be hard to align the three screws, and once you have that done they need to be carefully tightened a few times after rotating the drum a few cycles, to get all the play out. Once the motor was replaced the dryer works like new.
Parts Used:
Drive Motor with Pulley
  • Samuel M from Jamaica Plain, MA
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    1- 2 hours
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers, Socket set
7 of 11 people found this instruction helpful.
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knowing how to open the top
I unpluged the machine. Pried out the old switch with the tip of a screw driver. Pried off the connectors, there was not enough extra wire for me to connect the new switch through the front of the machine. I pushed the new switch in place. Using the screw driver I carefully pried open the top front of the machine { there were 2 plastic spring clips securing the top}. I placed a wash bucket on the drum to hold the top open , connected the 2 connectors to the switch and snapped top back in place.
Parts Used:
SWITCH-DOOR
  • Gary from Arlington Heights, IL
  • Difficulty Level:
    Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Screw drivers
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
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The rear drum hitch was sheared off
I noticed for sometime that my dryer had been sqeeking...but I had thought nothing of it. It got alot louder as time went on and then one day the drum stopped spinning. Not to mention I had my son's 5th birthday party in 3 days. So I went online and found parts select. They sent me the whole assembly and I got it the day before the birthday, and it only took me 30 mins to replace it. Thank you, Parts Select for the prompt response and saving me for the embarrasment of having clothes all over the floor.
Parts Used:
Rear Drum Bearing Kit
  • Nathan from Clarence, IA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    15 - 30 mins
  • Tools:
    Nutdriver, Screw drivers, Wrench set
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
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timer knob was broken
only needed to attach knob with one hand.
Parts Used:
Timer Knob
  • Margaret from Millmont, PA
  • Difficulty Level:
    Really Easy
  • Total Repair Time:
    Less than 15 mins
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Auto Dry would not cut off and took long time to dry.
1. I disconnected power cord
2. I used putty knife to loosen top by pressing into
the front spring clips holding it down and lifted the
front of the lid up against the back hinges and leaned
it back against a wall at the back of the machine.
3. Then I unscrewed the two screws at the top of the
inside of the front panel edges and unclipped the
wires from the door switch and then crimped the
metal clips holding the front panel to the main
body sides and then leaned the top of the front panel
toward the front and lifted it out and put it aside.
4. I then went to the back of the machine and undid the
two screws holding the motor area access panel and
took it off and put it aside. I then released the drum
belt tensioner and moved the belt away from the motor
pulley.
5. Then I removed the drum by lifting up on it so that the
ball axle could be pulled outward and then proceeded to
take the belt off and work the drum out of the front
panel opening and put it aside.
6. Once the drum was removed one could see the heating coil
assembly attached to the inside back of the dryer. One
needs to take off the two wires attached to the coil
spade connectors that are located at the ceramic
insulator. I decided to take out the whole assembly by
undoing the four screws at the outside back of the dryer.
7. Once the assembly is out of the dryer, then it becomes
necessary to remove the spade terminals from the
ceramic insulator, One must unbend the metal flanges
that have been bent at the base of the spade coneetors
at the surface of the insulator and then pull out the
spade connectors. Once this is done, then one can
unconnect the coil from the ceramic insulators holding it
to the assembly. Once the coil is disconnected one can
put in the new coil into the ceramic insulators, insert
the spade connedtors into the insulator, bend the
flanges to retain it and then reverse the disassembly
sequence for the assembly to complete the job.
Outcome,(I saved the old coil in case I need it in the
future.)
Outcome
Parts Used:
Heating Element Restring Coil with 1/4" Terminals
  • Peter from Harrngton, DE
  • Difficulty Level:
    A Bit Difficult
  • Total Repair Time:
    30 - 60 mins
  • Tools:
    Pliers, Screw drivers
5 of 5 people found this instruction helpful.
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All Instructions for the FDE216RES0
46 - 60 of 502