F31C436ES0 Frigidaire Dryer - Instructions

Repair to replace motor and blower kit. Disconnected Power Source and turned off breaker. Removed top and front with screwdriver. Removed back plate with screwdriver. Disengaged belt. Removed plastic piece in front top with phillip screwdriver. Removed Drum. Disconected thermostat from blower. Unplugged motor connections. Removed screws holding in blower unit. Removed blower unit and motor as a unit. Removed pully unit (2 Screws). Took off blower unit security nut to be used on new unit. Took old seal out of pully unit. (New Motor has one installed on it). Put pully unit back in. Put in new motor and blower unit. Screwed them in place. Reconnected thermostat. (2 screws).
Connected electrical plugs to motor. Put drum in and plastic piece in front top of dryer. Hooked belt back up from rear. Replaced rear door. (2 screws). Reconnected ground wire on back top of dryer. Put on front making sure all wires to Timer are connected(they can pull off when taking drum out). Close front. Polug dryer in. Reset dryer in place. Turn on Breaker. Done.

Tried to follow the directions of others but ran into a problem with getting the top panel off. This is how I did it.
1 Disconnect power and dryer vent tube. Move away from wall.
2 Remove slotted access panel in back of dryer and take belt off motor and idler pulley. Leave on drum.
3 Unscrew the screws on the back of the top panel brackets( mine are silver) where they screw into the back panel and pull up and to the back to get the top panel off. Someone else said to slide a putty knife in the front to release the top but my machine has no spring clips.
4 With the cover off you can see the two heat sensors and I tested them with a multi meter they registered 0 which meant they were OK.
5 Remove the screws that hold the control board on and the plugs that are wired into it making sure that you draw a diagram to remember the wiring. There was a zip tie that I cut to be able to feed the plugs through the hole in the front panel that the wiring must go when the front panel drops down.
6 Remove the screws on the top of the front panel and the screws on the inside of the side panel that hold the front panel secure.
7 A lot goes on on step 7 because the front panel which is hinged drops from the top down to the floor. Diagram and remove all wires there are two green ground wires on the side, Three wires on the door lock, two wires for the light and wires for a moisture sensor. When disconnected feed the control panel plugs and other wires through the hole in the front panel and lift up and out on the front panel it will pop out. Lower it to the floor and let it rest there.
8 Now you can get the drum out of the way by pulling up then out the front where the front panel is now on the floor. Leave the belt on it.
9 Diagram the wiring on the heating element there are connections for the element and the sensor. They gave me a new sensor screwed onto the new heating element. Then unscrew it from the back panel the screws are on the back of the machine.
10 Install is the reverse of the rip down

In hindsight I would have liked to have had the new part before I started the project because the wiring wasn't so fresh in my head a week later when it arrived even with diagrams. Over all it was very simple and took under two hours to complete. I did clean everything I could inside the machine and reglued a couple of the seals that had fallen loose. Works like new and probably went because of overheating with a clogged vent. Lesson... clean your dryer vent every year or sooner.

First, I liked for a reset switch, because I guess some dryers have one. It seems mine doesn't. So that didn't work.

Next I cleaned out the lent build up everywhere. I would suggest doing this if you have a problem or not. It ended up being very little work for great return.

Heating Element had actually broke in half, so I ended up needing to replace it. Really unhooking the little electric prongs was the worst part. The have little tabs that bend down to hold them in place, and they don't really bend back up. So you have to break them out. The only thing with the coil is to make sure it doesn't touch the pan.

I put a new built on only because I had everything open, and had know idea how old it was. It was not hard really. You just need to pay attention to how the old one wraps through everything before taking it off. If it was shredded, and you didn't get to see it first, well then good luck.

I don't think it would take others as long as it took me.
I had to take the drum out to get to the limiter. And my dryer is in a builtin housing with limited space in front of the dryer - so lots of manuevers to get access.

The limiter was very easy to find, thanks to diagrams on this site. The space between drum and limiter made it impossible to get to the limiter screws without removing drum. Found very helpful drum removal instructions on PartSelect here:

http://www.partselect.com/PS1148434-Frigidaire-134503600-Dryer-Drum-Belt.htm?SourceCode=13&ModelNum=FSE748GFS0

Great site - thank you.

Took off front panel, removed drum and replaced parts listed. A bit tricky to keep small parts in place. However, masking tape helped. Best of all was the online diagram of how the parts were assembled. In addition, taking step by step phone pixs aided in replacing parts since there was some down time between diagnosis and installation.

my motor was making noise i tried to replace the motor but could not get the blower wheel off the motor so i had to buy a blower and housing assy. also... now it works great...

1. Released the front latches under the dryer top and flipped it up.
2. Removed two screws holding the dryer front in place and flipped it down.
3. Tore off old drum glide and lower seal.
4. removed most of the remaining fuzz with sandpaper.
5. Glued the new seals in place.
6. Put everything back together.

All in all, about 30 minutes of effort. I managed to come away with only minor cuts and scrapes.

Much cheaper than a new dryer!

unplug dryer. lift the top of the dryer up and back. Take the screws out holding the front panel on. One on each side. Disconnect wires from door open stop switch and take front panel off. Remove drive belt from around pulleys and lift drum up and forward out the front of the dryer. I had to replace the plastic and metal holder and the grounding ball also. Remove the shaft from the drum and put he new one on. Put the drum back in, wrap the belt around the drum and set drum in plastic holder. Then just reverse your steps. Fairly easy.

Dryer door would not close, part had broke and fallen in. Once part was received it took less than an minute to put the new one in and I was back in business.

thanks for making it easy to find the part needed. and the delivery was fast!

bonnie J.

followed video and replaced part( cleaned and vacuumed dryer while I had it apart),relatively easy repair

Removed the front, door and all. Replaced both upper and lower seals and allowed glue to dry for 24 hours. Removed 3 screws attaching drum to pivot in rear. While drum was out, relubricated pivot seat and ball. Installed new drum which has been re-designed, has strip around entire lip now. Seals are different, so both have to be replaced with ones in kit, supplied tube of glue is not enough to do the job, so used gator glue. Had trouble installing the 3 screws that attach it to the pivot. Finally re-assembled entire front panel and replaced the door. Started the dryer and it worked as new.

Rear plastic drum support bearing got worn making the shaft come in contact with the metal bearing bracket. That contact created a groove overtime and eventually snapped the shaft tip off.

Cut power off. Remove all the screws from the front panel. (where the controls are) working from the bottom to the top. Insert putty knife between the dryer and the control panel and push down to release. Carefully disconnect the wire harness.
You will find 2 screws at the bottom and 4 on top holding the dryer door. Remove and expose the drum.
Remove the drive belt
Remove the drum.
You need a 5/16 nut drive to remove the bearing bracket and an extra set of hands to hold the support from the back.
Re-install the parts. I used bearing grease to make it run smoother
Attach the new shaft to the drum and reinstall the drum (its best done with help)

Re install everything back again. And you are done

removed the old selector knob just pulled it out gently and lined up the new selector knob and gently pushed it into correct alignment. what a breeze.
reasonable prices. saved me $ on a service call, part, and labor. Thank you M



I just feel the postage is way too much for an item that weighs under 1 oz.

The repair went very smoothly. I'm a woman in my mid 20's and was prepared to buy a new dryer but I saw the part online for a very reasonable price and the video instructions were extremely helpful. I was able to fix the dryer quickly and cost effectively AND the part arrived in only 2 days! It all worked out very well.

1. I disconnected power cord
2. I used putty knife to loosen top by pressing into
the front spring clips holding it down and lifted the
front of the lid up against the back hinges and leaned
it back against a wall at the back of the machine.
3. Then I unscrewed the two screws at the top of the
inside of the front panel edges and unclipped the
wires from the door switch and then crimped the
metal clips holding the front panel to the main
body sides and then leaned the top of the front panel
toward the front and lifted it out and put it aside.
4. I then went to the back of the machine and undid the
two screws holding the motor area access panel and
took it off and put it aside. I then released the drum
belt tensioner and moved the belt away from the motor
pulley.
5. Then I removed the drum by lifting up on it so that the
ball axle could be pulled outward and then proceeded to
take the belt off and work the drum out of the front
panel opening and put it aside.
6. Once the drum was removed one could see the heating coil
assembly attached to the inside back of the dryer. One
needs to take off the two wires attached to the coil
spade connectors that are located at the ceramic
insulator. I decided to take out the whole assembly by
undoing the four screws at the outside back of the dryer.
7. Once the assembly is out of the dryer, then it becomes
necessary to remove the spade terminals from the
ceramic insulator, One must unbend the metal flanges
that have been bent at the base of the spade coneetors
at the surface of the insulator and then pull out the
spade connectors. Once this is done, then one can
unconnect the coil from the ceramic insulators holding it
to the assembly. Once the coil is disconnected one can
put in the new coil into the ceramic insulators, insert
the spade connedtors into the insulator, bend the
flanges to retain it and then reverse the disassembly
sequence for the assembly to complete the job.
Outcome,(I saved the old coil in case I need it in the
future.)
Outcome