F1560E - Instructions

took out plastic piece under plate (that was broken) and placed new one in the hole. No tools req'd. Works like new.

Problem was due to a faulty door switch. Replaced with a new switch and the microwave now works fine! Only thing that was tricky was that LG uses the hex screws with a peg in the middle to keep the microwave cover on. Had to use a small screwdriver and pliers (on the screwdriver) to unscrew the screws.

Initial failure of over range microwave Aug 3rd. Control Panel worked but no heat. Took to local LG authoriaed local repair place. They fixed it quickly and we re-installed it. Worked fine for 2 months then had similar failure again. Agaim took to same authorized repairer. They kept unit for 3 months but finally concluded theu could not fix it and suggested we contact LG for a partial refund. When they tested the unit during re-assembly in my presence, there was a blue flash and the fuse blew. Since we had built a custom tile mural back splash around this unit, I brought it home, ordered a number of time delay fuses new capacitor and two new high voltage diodes. However, using my Fluke DMM, I checked the existing capacitor and high voltage diode and they checked OK so I just replaced the time delay fuse. The high voltage transformer leads had 2 possible ways to connect to capacitor and diode. Tried one way, plugged unit in and turned it on, and immediatly blew the fuse. Replaced the fuse and reversed the high voltage transformer connections,amd turned unit pn, and it worked perfectly. Since we had experienced several power failures during the time of the original failure, the repairer concluded that power spikes might be at fault, so I also purchased a TrippLite ISOBAR4ULTRA 3300 Joule surge protector between wall outlet and microwave, and re-installed over range. It has worked perfectly since.

unplug the unit then pull down , lot of screws are on top. open the cover . you could see the parts that need to replace on the right hand side (heavy side). disconnect wires then test the parts that need to replace by a tester to make sure that it's really broke .then unscrew part and replace .

I UNPLUGGED the microwave and removed the cover, using a phillips and a Torx screwdriver for the machine screws. I set these screws aside, so as not to confuse them with the later encountered screws. I photographed the magnetron to assure proper placement of the 6 phillips machine screws involved in reassembly (marking the the locations on the old magnetron would do as well. I marked the old magnetron "old", to avoid later confusion. I removed the two screws holding the shields to the magnetron. I removed 3 of the 4 screws holding the magnetron to the microwave, leaving one of the top screws. I held the magnetron securely and removed the last screw, pulling out a the part of the magnetron that penetrated the microwave. I installed the new magnetron in reverse order. One problem I encountered was locating one of the six screws, which had been pulled into the old magnetron by magnetism.

Ice covered the top back of the freezer compartment. This did not allow the cold air to move up to the fridge. Complete defrosting (36hrs) fixed the problem. There was a lot of water, from ice inside, that was not visible. We realized the freezer drawer must have been left cracked open. Thanks so much.

"PIECE OF CAKE" Removed cover,removrd bulb, replaced bulb, replaced cover. "PIECE OF CAKE" P.S. Wife is happy.

hardest part was taking the microwave down off of the wall to gain access to the diode. Thought if was the transformer but ended up being just a blown diode. remove and replace and bench test. that part took 15 minutes . moral of the story don't boil water under the side of the microwave that holds the electric components.

The built-in microwave was removed by taking off the front plate that was secured by 3 screws at the bottom. The unit was moved to the side slightly so that the power cord could be disconnected. Then the entire unit was withdrawn. The outer shell of the unit was taken off by removing the six screws holding it in place. The shell may need to be shifted slightly to separate it from the unit. Once removed, the bracket latch and opening mechanism for the door was revealed. The latch is inserted simply by aligning the two nipples with the correponding holes in the opening mechanism and gently pushing it into place. The latch is plastic and appears to be vulnerable to breakage over time through constant use, so I have ordered a spare should the problem reoccur.

I called to make sure I was replacing the correct part. I paid over the phone and it came the next day. Very very easy process.

Since others reported similar problems and it was just the fuse we tried that first. That wasn't the problem so we ordered the Door Interlock Switch Kit. Shipping was very fast! Our microwave had 3 switches. My husband asked how to know which one to switch. I read that one person just did process of elimination. Luckily ours worked on the first change out! So happy to have stumbled across this site and not have to buy a whole new microwave.

You have to remove the cover which in my case was a little more difficult because the unit is wall mounted and has a frame around it. That was the hard part. Once the mounting frame was removed, you can remove the cover and the light bulb is on the top right side of the unit. One screw removes it and the new one pops right in. Put the case back on reinstall it in the wall and voila...piece of cake.

you will a security socket T20. this unit was installed over oven, remove trim cover,remove screws holding unit in place,I used a helper to get the unit out, once out you have to remove all the screws holding the cover on,on two of the corners they use a security hex screw so you need a special socket for that. remove the door latch switch,take your time or you will break tab holding switch in. ask me how I know.but super glued broke piece in place and plugged wire back in.the new latch may have a second pin but look at old one and plug wires in the same way.the light bulb does not screw out so I had to purchase the entire unit.total cost under a $100.00 to do repair.

I started by calling a reputable service company to diagnose my problem. The repair tech told me it was the magnetron and it was a "very difficult" repair that required two people because the over-the-range unit needed to be taken down. I asked for a detailed estimate. He quoted $550 including parts and labor. After he left, I researched the part costs on this site and realized his costs were very inflated. I purchased the magnetron for $220. It arrived at my door two days later. Installation was very easy. First, I unplugged the unit. Then, while my wife was making sure it did not fall off the wall bracket, I unscrewed the two mounting screws from the top of the cabinet. I lifted the unit down from the wall and set it on the kitchen counter. The shell needed removed from the microwave which involved about 20 screws. This provided access to the magnetron on top. The magnetron is secured by five screws and a plug. I unplugged it, unscrewed it, and removed the old part. Then, I installed the new magnetron, and tested the microwave to make sure this did the trick. It worked. I put the outer shell back on the microwave and cleaned the microwave. (This is a great opportunity to clean the areas you do not typically see!). I then remounted the unit and plugged it back in. Saved myself a bit of money so I took the family out to dinner and a movie to celebrate. Microwave was in working order for heating up left overs the next day! Thank you!!!

Information provided on the web site by Part Select, were helpful and encouraging to select and buy the part needed to repair the appliance. No doubt, a skilled person having background in the repair of appliances should attend such repair job.