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$27.52
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Questions And Answers for EW23CS65GS1
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Irene
February 6, 2020
The fridge alarm will not turn off. The display is reading power failure and the code reads ce for both fridge and freezer temperature. It doesn’tseem like the fridge is working at all. How do i turn the alarm off? What does this code mean?
For model number EW23CS65GS1
Hello, Thank you for your question. Looking at this model: The CE error code stands for "Communication Error. It means that there is a loss of communications between the UI (user interface) and Main PCB. The problem could be either of the control boards, or a wiring problem. You should first unplug the refrigerator and check the wiring and connections to the circuit boards. This is also the cause of the alarm. We hope this helps.
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Dave
December 23, 2021
Fridge stopped dispensing water. Ice maker still works. I disconnected the hose on the bottom of the freezer door and water comes out there when I activate the dispenser so I know water is flowing there. When I connect it back up and hit the dispenser I can hear the pump or valve opening but nothing comes out. What part would I need to order to fix the problem? Regards, Dave
For model number EW23CS65GS1
Hello Dave, Thank you for the question. We suggest checking the water filter first. If it is over 6 months old it should be changed. An old filter can cause the water pressure to drop and not be strong enough to be sent to the dispenser. If the Filter is good, you can test the Valve, PartSelect Number: PS7784018. Set your multitester to the R X 1 ohms setting to test for continuity. Place each of the multitester's leads on a terminal. Your multitester should display a reading between 200 and 500 ohms. Closely examine your water inlet valve. The exact ohm resistance rating you should test for may be marked on the valve. We hope this helps!
In my specific appliance the water valve is located in the bottom right hand corner looking at it from the back. To get to it I remove the thin layer of cardboard the covers the back of the fridge. I then proceeded to disconnect the 1/4" copper tubing which is the water feed coming out of the wall. Then I removed the screws that hold the valve assembly in place. I took the water valve out and removed the electrical connections as well as the plastic tubing which feed the water dispenser and the ice maker. To install the new water valve it was just a matter of reversing steps.
Even though my wife said that our icemaker broke, there was actually nothing wrong with it. It was the valve that let water flow in during the 'harvest' cycle. A real easy way to test the icemaker without voltage and current measurements, is to fill the tray by hand with a little cup of water; wait till the water freezes and see if the maker dumped the ice into the bin.
Unplugged the refrigerator. Removed the 4 hex head screws on the lower back panel at the back of the freezer. Used a blow dryer to defrost the pipes and area surrounding the thermostat. Unplug the connection from the back of the freezer, unplug the 2 wires, one that goes to the heater, one that comes from power. Unclip the thermostat from the pipe and note which pipe you unclipped it from. Cut the wires on the old thermostat midway between the plugs and the sensor. Using the supplied butt connectors, strip the wire ends on color matched wires (should be a dark blue or black) and crimp them together. Repeat with the other wire. Discard the white shrink wrapping. I wasn't able to get it small enough with a hair dryer or lighter. Plug the thermostat back into it's respective plugs. Clip the thermostat back onto the pipe you removed it from. Replace the back panel with the four screws. Ensure the bottom of the panel is set inside of the drip tray. Replace any shelving you removed. Plug the refrigerator back into the wall. Your done!
