ETS22SBMBRBS General Electric Refrigerator - Instructions

After reading this forum and other searches, I assumed replacing the board may solve my problem. Unscrewed the back plate, used pliers to pull out the connectors, squeezed in the sides of the 4 plastic white board holders to release the board, and then replaced old board with the new one and reconnected connectors. (My model was not one of the mentioned models for cutting the 2nd pin of the J1 connector, so I left it in.) Upon plugging my frig back in, it began working perfectly again. So thankful to have found this forum!

Removed the board cover from the back, removed old board, installed new board, installed cover.

Removed back cover from unit. unpluged wirring harness installed new control board and refigerator runs lik new

Part arrived 2 days before anticipated. I was able to keep my fridge running long enough to get the new part in, which took no time at all. The Main Board relay would start clicking and the compressor would shut down. By unplugging the top right plug for a minute and plugging it back in I was able to keep it running for a few hours at a time. Good enough to keep my food from going bad. Thr part was an easy plug in replacement, was a good price, and works great.

Removed main control board cover on back of refrigerator (3 screws). Unplugged power to refrigerator and removed electrical connections to control board using a screwdriver. Using a screwdriver disconnected (4) plastic self -locking prongs holding the board. Matched new replacement board with old board. Plugged in electrical connections to new board. Snapped main control board onto (4) self- locking prongs. Reinstalled cover (3) screws. Plugged in refrigerator and tested refrigerator operation.

Replaced evaporator fan motor, and this solved the whistling noise that had developed. Reviewed and followed the removal and installation instruction video as closely as possible. This was very helpful, with a few additions. For the model PS123NGPBBB GE refrigerator/freezer, there were a few differences from the video. There a was an additional cover panel that was positioned vertically at the back of the freezer compartment below the auger motor assembly. It was necessary to remove this cover (4 screws) to gain access to the auger motor cover screws. The unit also has a different light configuration with 2 lights. I found it helpful to remove these light bulbs and the corresponding light fixtures in order to remove the evaporator motor assembly. As mentioned in the video, it was necessary to cut the 4 wires from the wire harness of the new motor, and use butt end connectors to reattach these wires to the corresponding wires in the unit. Total job took between 1 and 2 hours, and the motor change solved the noise problem.

Remove back panel to expose the control board. Simply unplug cables from old board and pull the board out, no tools required. Put new board in place and replace the cables. Very easy.

I watched the video online and it said there were three sensors in the refrigerator, two in the freezer and one in the refrigerator. I only ordered one sensor and was going to try the one in the refrigerator first. He said the upper one in the freezer is the most difficult, but is usually the problem. So, I replaced the upper sensor and tried restarting the unit. Everything went well and it fixed the problem.

0. As a safety precaution, unplug the range or hit the relevant fuse breaker before you start. You might also want to grab a flashlight. Definitely do not try to do this while the oven is hot.
1. Pinch the wire over the light bulb cap to remove it. This is inside the oven at the back.
2. Pop off the hemispherical glass cap.
3. Unscrew the old light bulb, and screw the new light bulb in its place.
4. Put the cap back.
5. Secure the cap by putting the wire back in its slots on the cap.

No tools needed, the cap is just held in place with pressure from the wire.

Had friend assist in pulling fridge out from it's area so that I could access back. Unplugged unit. For the bottom freezer units (mine) the compartment containing the main control board is middle of the fridge and on the left. Took off the protective metal plate and then followed the video demonstrating the repair. One other discrepancy between the video and the instructions that came with the new main control board, is that the instructions suggested locating and cutting some other green wire to the compressor unit. I chose not to do that, as the unit was otherwise working fine as is prior to my main control board going south.

First I removed the ice tray rack lifting it out of the way to reach the back cover of the fan. Then, the whole back inside panel had to be removed. Two screws removed the fan and bracket from the freezer unit. The missing bumper lid just snapped into place. Replaced everything in reverse order. Pretty easy job.

1. Pulled refrigerator out
2. Unpluged the refrigerator
3. Removed the three screws holding the cover on.
4. Removed Board ASM Main Control.
5. Unpluged Connector's.
6. Pluged Connector's in to new Board ASM Main Control.
7. Put cover back on.
8. Pluged refrigerator back in.
9. Pushed refrigerator back into place.

Turned off the breaker to the fridge because I couldn't reach the power plug to unplug it . Use small flat head screwdriver to pop out the piece, disconnected the rubber prong connectors, inserted the new piece into the rubber prongs snapped it back into place. Flipped the breaker back on and prayed it worked. It did and I saved myself $120 service call.

Removed 2 screws and removed the old slide. Installed new slide and 2 screws . Done.

replaced main board.