EMO4000JCC05 General Electric Microwave - Instructions

Handed the part to my son. He unscrewed 5 screws in the base of the microwave, it dropped down. The light mechanism was clearly in view. With the exception of some corrosion on the old piece, it was simple to remove and replace, put back together, screw back up and all worked fine.

Phillips screws on bottom panel allowed me to install new socket and put electric connection back. Secured bottom panel and that was it.

Disconnected power cord from receptacle. Removed 5 screws in bottom panel and allowed it to swing downward on rear hinged edge. Disconnnected power wires to motor. Removed screw to detach motor. Inserted coupler through hole beneath center of turntable. Inserted motor shaft into coupler and re-attached motor. Connected power wires to motor and then closed the bottom panel and re-inserted the 5 screws.

Unscrewed numerous screws holding the "body/shell" to the microwave. Removed body. I then unplugged top door switch, replaced it with new one, and "tested" the new one. I fixed our $400 convection micro with an $18 switch. NICE!

removed electrical wires, unscrewed holder, inserted holder, attached wires, added bulb, and put cover back on.

I removed 4 screw from the under carriage of the microwave then, removed the 2 screws from the motor, replaced the motor and replaced the screws. It was so easy it took only 4 minutes to perform, better than replacing the whole unit (microwave) and less expensive too. i only wish it was made in the US, I wouldn't mind to spend a little more.

I used the internet and your directions to complete the repair. It was easy!

I took the cabinet off and saw where the switch had been burnt. So I remove it and order another one from your company. And I put new clips on it with heat shrinks. We might get another 30 years out it, Although I'm 80 years old.

Followed the online videos to enter the cavity to the switch holder. Noticed right away the dreaded capacitor was in back right corner behind where the touch pad had been removed. I isolated the capacitor with an old computer mouse pad for extra safety. Took some manipulations to get the switch mount out from behind the wire bundles. Once out front, easy to use small flat blade screwdriver to release each switch and replace with matching new switch. Only one switch was bad but replaced all three. Back together and working great.

Removed the outer cover to access the door switches. Turns out there were three switches, but I determined that only two were bad. When the small colored tab on the switch is pushed in it should make a clicking sound. The two bad switches had no resistance and did not make any noise when pressed. Removing the switch is relatively easy, you simply pull it away from a couple small tabs holding them in place. After reconnecting the wire leads, insert back into the holding tabs and install the cover.

Unscrewed bottom panel, then unscrewed light socket, then replaced with new socket and bulb. Reattached socket and panel.

I removed a few (6) screws and disengaged the motor. Removed the parts and installed in reverse order. Replaced the screws. Easy

Cleaning up the grease from cooking for years on the stovetop below took WAY longer. But the repair was simple!!

Two screws to remove upper from vent. Two screws to remove the didgit panel lift ip to remove and put aside remove the two screws that hold the door sensors. Depress the tab to remove the defective sensor disconnect the electrical connector and replace the new sensor snap it back into the holder install the two screws, install the didgital panel and vent panel to complete the job. Please be aware that there is a video of this procedure on Y tube

Had to take to a local glass shop for sizing and to remove sharp edges. Will never order again.

The halogen light bulb took a little skill. The prongs were a little difficult to maneuver into place.