EL7ATRRMS01 Whirlpool Refrigerator - Instructions

Removed door. Laid door down on a table. Unscrewed all screws around outside of door. Removed plastic cover back of door underneath cover was filled with heavy ice apparently from condensation. Cleaned and dried back of door really well. Replaced with new seal. Reinstalled door. New seal works perfectly.

I unplugged and defrosted the freezer ( good excuse to give it a good cleaning). I then removed the hex screws from the door under the gasket. Because this attaches the door panel to the freezer, it is helpful to have two people for this task if you have a full size upright freezer. We then removed the panel, cleaned the door, and fitted the new gasket in place. If your gasket has kinks in it, either throw it in the dryer on low for a few minutes or use a hair dryer to smooth them out. We then added a few screws around the center point of each side to hold the gasket in place, secured the corners, and replaced the remainder of the screws. We used a small cordless drill. The gasket will be hard at first, so I duct taped the freezer door shut with a few pieces of tape and turned the unit back on. A repair guy was going to charge me $350.00 for the job, but I did it for free with the cost of the gasket. This site is the least expensive place I found anywhere, and shipped very quickly!

I simply watched the repair video and did it! Super easy, needed start device and capacitor. As easy as unplugging the old and adding the new. The video helped and gave me confidence. Wives can fix fridges too! Saved me $2500. Looks like I'll need a new excuse if I want a new fridge.

I did remove the run capacitor of the starthing kit of compressor and another one new. It work fine.

Simply stick a putty knife between the switch and refrig wall. Pop out old swith, remove both wires by pulling off switch by terminals. Throw switch out. Put wires on new switch and push into slot and all done. Nothing to it! Took me 5 minutes if th

I have never before seen a bulb with the filament intact not light. If the bulb's filament seems intact, screw the bulb into a known working lamp and see if it lights. When screwing it back into the socket in the fridge, it takes a bit of extra effort to fully seat (until it does, it won't light!). For replacing the switch, I unplugged the unit, used a paint scraper and worked it under the switch bezel from the right side. A bit of moxie, and the switch came out. The replacement switch had a different spade contact spacing than the original. I used a pair of scissors to cut the rubber bridge between the two switch wire connectors so I could connect to the new switch. In the end, it turned out to be the bulb. NOTE: The Model TC18KL is _not_ listed! What I finally found that the number "P7803211WL" on the sticker is actually a manufacturing code. Found this out by searching, and Sears' part search came up with matches.

I had ordered some other parts for something entirely different off your website and service was great. So after almost ten years of a dark refrigerator, because of a defective switch, I decided to see if you had the part to fix it... You did and the part got here in 3 days. I had a working light switch and all the light in the world where my husband needed it most (in the fridge). It took me at the most ten minutes to replace the part. All is well now and I have a happy husband who can find the leftovers just fine. Thanks for your great service!

followed the video as instructed. Saved two repairman calls, one to find the problem, one to install. Net savings was about $130.00

We tried repairing with a new switch which was very easy to install but it didn't fix the problem.

I watched the video and thought "I can do this". Made some notes and then proceeded to remove the old switch and replace with the new one. Thank you.