EFMC627UTT2 Frigidaire Dryer - Instructions

When I described the noise to a YouTube appliance diagnostician, I was directed to check the felt seals front and back of the rotating drum for wear, tears, or foreign objects. As it happens the felt seals looked find and there were foreign objects so, not wanting to disassemble and reassemble the dryer more than I had, I ended up replacing all the replaceable moving parts that I considered possible culprits: The idler tension spring, the idler tension bracket (which includes a nylon pulley wheel), the drum belt, the five rubber-tipped bearings that support the drum and keep it in place, and the foam seal on the blower housing which seemed a little brittle and old, as well as high-temperature adhesive for the latter. The instructional videos here and on YouTube were extremely helpful (I doubt that I would have attempted this job at all, had I not watched these ahead of time). The most time-consuming aspect was waiting for the arrival of the parts as I didn't order them all at the same time or all from the same place (I ordered from whomever could ship me a given part the fastest. Disassembly took less than an hour. Re-assembly with the new parts in place took about the same but was a little more awkward because this appliance sits in a very narrow closet and it's difficult to ensure that the 4" flexible duct stays in place when sliding the appliance back into the closet. No regrets. Now I know the basics if this dryer needs attention in future and I also know all the parts that I can eliminate as suspects in any future maintenance (the parts that I replaced)

I removed the front, top and back panels of the dryer, installed belt around drum and through the pulley system so the belt was snug, replaced all screws and panels, and done.

Watched several videos on unit disassembly/reassembly and fault repair (YouTube is great). Moved the dryer into the garage. Removed the top cover, front loading door assembly and back panel. I used a large piece of cardboard as my screw holder. As I removed a screw, I drilled it into the cardboard and then wrote what they were for and how many there were (some of the notes were very specific). Visual inspection revealed the relay on the main control board (MCB) had failed (burnt up and spewed molten plastic on several of the MCB's wiring harnesses and wiring connectors). The failed relay had melted and pitted the wires and connectors for the heater (they needed to be replaced). Purchased a new MCB (it came with a complete wiring harness). Vacuumed all of the dryer components. Took photos of everything I replaced/touched (the MCB, wiring harness routing, location of the wiring harness clips, assembly screws, wires to each component). Unmounted the old MCB and disconnected the wiring harness clips for the harness going to the front door assembly. Mounted the new MCB and inserted the new wiring harness clips (for the front section). One wire at a time, removed the old wiring harness connector and installed the new wiring harness connector, in its place. Once the front was completed, moved to the wiring harness going to the back and underneath of the dryer. Followed the same steps and methodically replaced the wiring harness. Reattached the back panel, front loading door assembly and the top cover. Re-installed the dryer in the laundry room made the wall connections and tested it. It works!!!

followed the repair video and replaced thermal fuse and thermostat(recommend replacing both due to the problem could of resulted in either part being the cause),Repair went relatively easy.I also recommend to clean and vacuum the dryer while you have it all apart due to a lot of lint buildup and don't forget to unplug before servicing!Stay Safe!!!

Removed the back panel and the exhaust hose.removed the heater element and changed the thermostat wire was melted cut damaged part of wire soldered and rapped with black electrical tap

Remove top lid by pushing tab on either side with a putty knife. Disconnect the 2 wire carriages on right. Remove one
phillips head screw on each side that holds front panel to dryer body. Remove front panel by using flat head screwdriver to pry panel from body. Remove thermostat located on bottom right attached to front of motor on a plastic body by removing two phillips head screws. Disconnect wires and place on new part.

Had to loosen drum and move it forward to get at switch. Didn’t have to remove belt.

Main problem was the bearing, replaced the belt and felt seal as well
The video instruction was very helpful
Was easy with basic mechanical aptitude
Dryer running great now
All parts from Partselect.com
Have ordered from them before and would order from them again

Just remove and replaced no tools required

I researched possible causes on line and watched a PartsSelect video on YouTube on how to test. I ended up misreading test results and ordered the High Limit Thermostat but subsequently realized problem was the Terminal Block. No problem, PartsSelect took back the Thermostat (I hadn't installed it) and shipped me the Terminal Block. My dryer was back up and running in less than 7 days from initial analysis to installation of Terminal Block. Instructions that came in confirmation email for installation were perfect and easy to follow. Total cost with new power cord from Home Depot was less than $50 vs a quoted service call of $175+ parts from local electrician.