If your dryer drum has stopped spinning and your clothes are coming out damp, it might be time to replace the belt. This essential part helps the drum rotate, allowing warm air to circulate and dry yo...
This high limit thermostat has a limit of 260 degrees Fahrenheit. Meaning that it will cut out when the internal dryer temperature reaches 260. This thermostat cuts back in when the temperature drops ...
This is a replacement screw for your washer or dryer. The screw is approximately half an inch in length and is a Phillips-head screw. It screws in from the outside of the drum, into the vane/baffle. T...
Need a way to keep your dryer safe and protected from overheating? Then the Frigidaire Thermal Limiter is your perfect go-to solution. This genuine part acts as a guard, automatically shutting off you...
This is a genuine replacement drum roller for a dryer. This part includes a roller which has an axle and two tri-rings. The dryer drum roller holds the drum in place while it rotates on the dryer supp...
This dryer thermal fuse is a critical safety component designed to protect the appliance from overheating. It automatically shuts off power to the motor or heating system if excessive temperatures are...
This element is strung with a coiled wire made of a nickel and a chrome alloy. This wire receives, but resists, a controlled electric current and as a result, the wire heats up. The heat produced is u...
Are you tired of your dryer wobbling every time you use it? Our LEVELING LEG, an original equipment manufacturer (OEM) part, could be the solution you need. It's designed specially to make your dryer ...
When I described the noise to a YouTube appliance diagnostician, I was directed to check the felt seals front and back of the rotating drum for wear, tears, or foreign objects. As it happens the felt seals looked find and there were foreign objects so, not wanting to disassemble and reassemble the dryer more than I had, I ended up replacing all the replaceable moving parts that I considered possible culprits: The idler tension spring, the idler tension bracket (which includes a nylon pulley wheel), the drum belt, the five rubber-tipped bearings that support the drum and keep it in place, and the foam seal on the blower housing which seemed a little brittle and old, as well as high-temperature adhesive for the latter. The instructional videos here and on YouTube were extremely helpful (I doubt that I would have attempted this job at all, had I not watched these ahead of time). The most time-consuming aspect was waiting for the arrival of the parts as I didn't order them all at the same time or all from the same place (I ordered from whomever could ship me a given part the fastest. Disassembly took less than an hour. Re-assembly with the new parts in place took about the same but was a little more awkward because this appliance sits in a very narrow closet and it's difficult to ensure that the 4" flexible duct stays in place when sliding the appliance back into the closet. No regrets. Now I know the basics if this dryer needs attention in future and I also know all the parts that I can eliminate as suspects in any future maintenance (the parts that I replaced)
I removed the front, top and back panels of the dryer, installed belt around drum and through the pulley system so the belt was snug, replaced all screws and panels, and done.
Watched several videos on unit disassembly/reassembly and fault repair (YouTube is great). Moved the dryer into the garage. Removed the top cover, front loading door assembly and back panel. I used a large piece of cardboard as my screw holder. As I removed a screw, I drilled it into the cardboard and then wrote what they were for and how many there were (some of the notes were very specific). Visual inspection revealed the relay on the main control board (MCB) had failed (burnt up and spewed molten plastic on several of the MCB's wiring harnesses and wiring connectors). The failed relay had melted and pitted the wires and connectors for the heater (they needed to be replaced). Purchased a new MCB (it came with a complete wiring harness). Vacuumed all of the dryer components. Took photos of everything I replaced/touched (the MCB, wiring harness routing, location of the wiring harness clips, assembly screws, wires to each component). Unmounted the old MCB and disconnected the wiring harness clips for the harness going to the front door assembly. Mounted the new MCB and inserted the new wiring harness clips (for the front section). One wire at a time, removed the old wiring harness connector and installed the new wiring harness connector, in its place. Once the front was completed, moved to the wiring harness going to the back and underneath of the dryer. Followed the same steps and methodically replaced the wiring harness. Reattached the back panel, front loading door assembly and the top cover. Re-installed the dryer in the laundry room made the wall connections and tested it. It works!!!
