This 40-Watt light bulb is sold individually and is a genuine OEM replacement option for your home appliances. It is specially designed to withstand extreme temperatures, so this bulb is compatible wi...
This rear drawer support comes with the installation screw. This part has been redesigned. The new support inserts towards the rear of the drawer as opposed to the side.
This part is a replacement lens for your oven or range. The lens is red in color, and when the elements are turned on, the light behind the lens will turn on to inform the user that the element is, in...
This is a large dual haliant element with a limiter or sensor for glass cooktops and freestanding ranges. It is a 2500-watt part. The inner diameter measures 9 inches, while the outer diameter measure...
This part is the replacement light socket for your oven. The oven light socket provides power to the light, and at the same time holds the light bulb in place.
Turned off circuit breaker to range. Removed the 2 oven racks. Removed two screws in back of oven compartment. Pulled element forward and the terminal connections get exposed. The right terminal clip disconnected by itself and the wire went back into the stove and could not be retrieved. Removed range draw under the oven and pulled entire range out from wall about 4 feet.. Removed metal backing with a socket wrench and exposed the oven element wires and terminals. Reinstalled new element and metal backing. Since range was out from wall, cleaned and vacuumed before pushing stove back in place. Since range draw was out re-leveled by setting adjustable feet. Reinstalled drawer and racks. Turned on circuit breaker. Tested element by setting bake cycle on.
After the element cooled down, I pulled the racks out of the oven, turned off the oven at the breaker box, then, using a nut driver, loosened the screws that held the baking assembly in the back of the oven, and pulled the connecting wires off. I bent the wires to make sure they would stay out, because if they get back in the insulation, they are hard to find. I would recommend getting a pair of locking pliers and putting them on the ends of the wires just to keep them from getting back into the insulation. Then I attached the left connection wire and then the right one, pushed them back into the insulation, tightened the baking assembly to the back wall of the oven, turned it back on at the breaker box, then tested the oven to see if it heated up. It did. Total repair time 15 -20 minutes. Would have been less if I didn't have to chase one of the wires back in the insulation. Shamless plug for the company ...By paying extra for 2-day shipping to receive the part, I saved just over $20 from buying it at Sears, which would have had to order the part anyway.
Removed six 1/4" hex nuts on rear of oven. Then through front/inside removed a single 1/4" hex nut to actually remove sensor. Unplug sensor connector, remove. Reversed steps, push oven back in place and plugged in. Tested oven function.
