This center crisper drawer rail supports the edges of refrigerator crisper drawers, ensuring smooth sliding and proper alignment. At 13.5 inches long, it fits between the drawers on the shelf frame. Q...
$76.21
In Stock
Order within the next 7 hrs and your part ships today!
This shelf frame is an essential component for maintaining the organization and functionality of your refrigerator’s crisper or pantry area. It serves as the sturdy base for the glass shelf above the ...
$144.12
In Stock
Order within the next 7 hrs and your part ships today!
This modular ice maker assembly replaces worn-out units to restore ice production in refrigerators. It includes the ice mold and control device but excludes the cover, ice level arm, wire harness, and...
$146.43
In Stock
Order within the next 7 hrs and your part ships today!
This 18 ml bottle of white appliance touch-up paint is used to cover scratches or marks on your appliance. The white touch-up paint can be used on refrigerators, microwaves, ranges, clothes dryers, an...
$17.95
In Stock
Order within the next 7 hrs and your part ships today!
This electronic control board is a critical component in refrigerator systems, responsible for regulating temperature settings and managing cooling and defrost cycles. If your appliance is experiencin...
$217.62
In Stock
Order within the next 7 hrs and your part ships today!
Sold individually. Crisper drawer is an original equipment manufacturer (OEM) part that fits some bottom-freezer Kenmore, Amana, Crosley, Jenn-Air, KitchenAid, Maytag and Whirlpool refrigerators.
T...
$171.53
In Stock
Order within the next 7 hrs and your part ships today!
This light switch may also be known as a refrigerator door switch or a light switch kit, and is compatible with your refrigerator. The function of the refrigerator door switch is to turn on the light ...
$38.96
In Stock
Order within the next 7 hrs and your part ships today!
Questions And Answers for EB2SHKXVD01
Ask our experts a question about this model and we'll get back to you as soon as possible!
1 question answered by our experts.
< Prev
1
Next >
Sort by:
Search filter:
Clear Filter
Your search term must have 3 or more characters.
Keep searches simple. Use keywords, e.g. "leaking", "pump", "broken" or "fit".
Sorry, we couldn't find any existing answers that matched.Try using some different or simpler keywords, or submit your new question by using the "Ask a Question" button above!
Eddie
December 28, 2019
The control board display has a slash on freezer and frig. Side and the frig is not running
For model number EB2SHKXVD01
Hello Eddie and thank you for writing.
Many refrigerators come with a control lock that prevents children from changing the settings and temperatures and, in some cases, restricts the use of the water fountain or ice dispenser. Unlocking your refrigerator enables you to use the controls and adjust the setup of your refrigerator. For your convenience, we have attached the link to your manual with repair instruction. We hope this helps. Good luck with your repair. https://partselectcom.azureedge.net/assets/manuals/AD0E29564FD15C9527FA10576E6E2FA3720D5A99.pdf
Was this helpful?
Thank you for voting!
< Prev
1
Next >
✖
Ask a Question
Ask our experts a question on this model and we'll respond as soon as we can.
Interior surface of ice tray felt rough & flaky (coating deteriorated) so cubes would not release. Unplug appliance. Remove timer cover by hand pressure @ edge. Remove single attachment screw & bracket at lower front of icemaker. Disconnect wiring harness from socket @ rear of compartment. Tricky part was determining what type of connection held the other two attachment points along the long edge of the icemaker. I did not have repair manual or useful drawing but looked @ PartsDirect pic of side brackets & used a small mirror to confirm that mine were also some sort of "snap in" attachment. Remove icemaker unit by pushing upward and outward on the unit. I takes a good bit of pressure and will pop loose, but be careful not to break attachment bracket from freezer wall. Scavenge shut off bar and wiring harness from old icemaker once you have it out & attach to new one before installing it back in freezer. Again, you might find a mirror useful to align those pesky snap-in brackets with the new unit. Since you probably kept your freezer running while waiting for the part, the plastic snap-ins will be cold and brittle. I warmed them up first by applying a dampened cloth heated in the microwave to make them a little more pliable. A good push of the new unit towards the snap-ins along with some upward force will get it stable. Reattach the metal screw in bracket & connect the wiring harness to rear plug... and don't forget to plug the whole thing back in. It will take awhile for the first batch of cubes dump as the timer may need to cycle completely around to get to the fill cycle... be patient. Dump the first couple of batches of cubes just to make sure you're free of any residue.
I knew the chances of all the freon leaking out was unlikely so I looked at the wiring to the compressor and there was a capacitor and a starter/overload so i figured I would start there. I went on line and found the parts at this site and they were less than the minimum service call charge for a service tech so I figured what the heck let's give her a shot so I did give it a shot. I ordered the parts and they were there in less time than a service tech could come out and i installed the parts and guess what for 90.00 in parts and 15 minutes in time I repaired my refrigerator. Thanks guys, It took less time to order the parts than it did to make the repair so thanks, your website rocks and is very well designed so my hat is off to you guys!
Having seen this problem before in other equipment so I had an idea where to look. Problem: the automatic defrost function was not operating. Looking through openings in the back panel of the freezer compartment, you could see the evaporator coils and fins were a solid chuck of ice. There are three logical components to check. Heater element, thermostat (located just above the evaporator) and a relay on the control board (located in the fridge control panel). Checked the heater with an ohm meter -- OK. The thermostat closes the circuit at around 20 degrees and opens at around 32 degrees. Pulled out the thermostat, wiring, fan unit. Everything unplugs, unscrews, and unclips, don't cut wires. Put the whole assembly in a friends freezer for an hour or so to see if the thermostat closes -- OK. Problem had to be with the control board. Replaced control board, reprogrammed it per included instruction. Everything is working again.