DVM7195SK4SS General Electric Microwave - Instructions

Phillips screws on bottom panel allowed me to install new socket and put electric connection back. Secured bottom panel and that was it.

Parts arrived on the morning of the second day (Saturday) to my pleasant surprise. I opened the nite light access door with a screw driver. Inserted the 2 bulbs without touching the outside of the halogen bulbs. Checked that the bulbs did work and closed the access door. The entire process went quickly and posed very little difficulty.

Unscrewed numerous screws holding the "body/shell" to the microwave. Removed body. I then unplugged top door switch, replaced it with new one, and "tested" the new one. I fixed our $400 convection micro with an $18 switch. NICE!

I took the cabinet off and saw where the switch had been burnt. So I remove it and order another one from your company. And I put new clips on it with heat shrinks. We might get another 30 years out it, Although I'm 80 years old.

Followed the online videos to enter the cavity to the switch holder. Noticed right away the dreaded capacitor was in back right corner behind where the touch pad had been removed. I isolated the capacitor with an old computer mouse pad for extra safety. Took some manipulations to get the switch mount out from behind the wire bundles. Once out front, easy to use small flat blade screwdriver to release each switch and replace with matching new switch. Only one switch was bad but replaced all three. Back together and working great.

Removed the outer cover to access the door switches. Turns out there were three switches, but I determined that only two were bad. When the small colored tab on the switch is pushed in it should make a clicking sound. The two bad switches had no resistance and did not make any noise when pressed. Removing the switch is relatively easy, you simply pull it away from a couple small tabs holding them in place. After reconnecting the wire leads, insert back into the holding tabs and install the cover.

Unscrewed bottom panel, then unscrewed light socket, then replaced with new socket and bulb. Reattached socket and panel.

If confused just go to YouTube. They can show you how to fix anything. Very simple replacement for both charcoal and regular filter. A snap.

GE slate microwave approximately 2 years old. Completely dead. Power to outlet was good, no gfci was tripped. Started checking fuses, 250v ceramic fuse good, two fuses at the bottom behind the control panel. One on the left labeled 12 on the diagram tested no continuity. One on the right labeled 13 tested good with continuity. So i figured number 12 was bad. Got the part and turns out to be the wrong fuse. Part number was the same but the terminals were the wrong size. Im pretty sure GE has the diagram labeled wrong because i ordered number 13 and it was the right size. Just an FYI if you are ordering those fuses for your microwave that 12 and 13 on the diagram may be reversed. Anyway received the right fuse and tested the new fuse and it tests open continuity and did not fix my issue. Microwave is still dead. There are two other fuses in the back that i need to check so hopefully i find the issue. Hope this helps someone, remember one fuse behind the control panel tests open and the other tests closed and thats how it is suppose to function.

removed electrical wires, unscrewed holder, inserted holder, attached wires, added bulb, and put cover back on.

I used the internet and your directions to complete the repair. It was easy!

Odered replacement

Just unscrewed the screw holding the cover in place, removed the broken glass wearing gloves and then removed both of the burned out lights. Replaced the bulbs while wearing gloves to avoid the commone problem of contaminating the halogen bulbs during installation which can shorten their life. Replaced glass into cover bent back short tabs to hold the glass in place and closed the cover. Reattached cover with screw and it was done 15 minutes tops

removed screw that holds glass for light and replaced bulb.
Reinserted screw that holds glass.

Only down side was cost to ship small bulb.

Two screws to remove upper from vent. Two screws to remove the didgit panel lift ip to remove and put aside remove the two screws that hold the door sensors. Depress the tab to remove the defective sensor disconnect the electrical connector and replace the new sensor snap it back into the holder install the two screws, install the didgital panel and vent panel to complete the job. Please be aware that there is a video of this procedure on Y tube