DV405GTPASU (AP) Samsung Dryer - Instructions

Removed and replaced both the thermostat sensor and the ignitor. Tested thej dryer and it worked. Replaced the front panel and it was good to go.

After viewing many instructions on how to replace a broken drum drive belt on UTUBE and the video you sent me the project was completed with no problems and with ease.

However, I did discover large amounts of lint caked to the bottom of the lint screen housing just beyond the filter screen. There was minimal lint on the lint exhaust fan blades and no lint in the exhaust ducts.

I didn't recall seeing any video instructions drawing attention to potential lint issues, it just made good sense to clean the entire system while it was apart . At first I saw no major lint problem.

However, after removing the lint screen and placing a vacuum cleaner wand to the bottom of the lint screen housing (the bottom is not easy to see) my vacuum cleaner hose became clogged three times. I realized there was a major lint issue isolated to this area.

Many of the on line complaints focused on parts not properly fitting their dryer. they had to modify the parts in some way to fit or operate or they had to return them for other parts. Just think of the time wasted and the lack of use of their dryer.

I called and talked to a tech. Gave them my model number and the tech located the correct OEM parts for my dryer. I paid the extra money for OEM parts because I wanted my dryer fixed and restored to service in the least amount of time.

Outside the discovery of the not so obvious lint issue, the repair project was easy and the dryer was restored to full service with minimal down time.

Thanks for all your help and fast delivery service.

A month prior to this repair, I took the dryer apart, cleaned the clogged lint out, and replaced the thermistor with a cheap aftermarket part. It lasted a month. Bought this more expensive OEM thermistor, hopefully of a better quality. Realized that I could have gotten to the thermistor from the back by simply removing the vent pipe and carefully reaching through the vent pipe hole to take out the thermistor. Did that this time instead of taking everything apart. Also bought an updated lint screen (aftermarket part). It has better mesh although it doesn't fit quite as perfectly as the original. So we'll see if the OEM thermistor lasts longer. The repair time was mostly spent moving the washer and dryer within a fairly small laundry room. The air lifter really helps.

Separated the outer door from inner door, removed glass globe. Replaced the seal

Reassembled

this site is amazing. I went on the website, put my model number in and they had suggestions for what might be the problem. “Dryer making a noise?” Click here. I bought a new tension pulley and belt. I watched the videos on how to replace them and the step by step instructions were spot on. Turns out, the old belt had frayed! I probably didn’t need to replace the tension pulley but I did it anyway. The sound is gone, and I felt like a genius for probably a week or so. The last repairman charge me hundreds of dollars to replace the rollers, but now I know how to do it myself. This site is awesome.

I originally called a repair person to come out but that was a total waste of time and money. He removed the front of the dryer claimed there was a dryer sheet causing the problem and put it back together.
Never again!
I watched a youtube video for step by step instructions on how to take the dryer apart.
I took the front door of the dryer off, removed the filter cover and the dryer drum & belt. Removing this was simple and allowed me to see everything I was working on. With the new part in hand, I removed one wire at a time from the non working heat sensor and connected it to the new part. That way I was sure I had the right connections.
I then removed the thermostat making sure to put the new one back in place exactly as the old one.
I then put the drum back in place with the belt securely fastened. I put the cover back on the lint filter and placed the dryer door back on securing it in place. The dryer is now working perfectly. It takes longer to take the dryer apart than to replace the old parts.

*** Unplug Dryer ***
Spent years (PITA) trying to figure out how to do this repair.

About 2 weeks ago I came across this U-Tube video.
This video really saved the day and I cannot tell you how much I appreciate this guys video.

Here is the link to an awesome video.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6u1_gnJAQ5U

Tip: It may help some of you to bring up this video on your phone or laptop to reference as you do the repair.

Good luck
M

I removed the dryer vent and cover to take a look at the inside of unit. Then I saw that wheel on the pulley was damaged and belt was tangled up. I simply replaced the pulley and placed the belt back. Samsung advised that I replace the unit, but myself $800+ on a new unit.

Just popped it in the dryer trap opening

It started off as supposed to be 5 minute job but took about 4 and a half hours (most of the time was vacuuming and cleaning the lint from inside the dryer as there was a lot of dryer lint built up including on the heater coils which the lint was charred black. So I went to install the cover filter and spring like in the video but my finger are larger so the spring fell off the ear/tab and fell down into the lint trap chute and into the flywheel that turns the drum so I had to remove the top and front of the dryer to retrieve the spring. That’s when I found even more lint but in the process of removing the front of the dryer I noticed one single screw holding the rear lint cover onto the dryer and so I removed that and pulled it out then with that rear cover in my hand I installed the cover filter and spring then reinstalled it. The video shows you to only remove the 3 screws to remove the front cover and then to stick your hands in the tight space and get the small spring and cover filter on and snap them into place. But if after you pull out the front cover then you will see a screw in the middle on the front side of the drum that is the the only thing holding g the rear cover in place just unscrew that and remove that cover and then you can replace the spring and cover filter and then you can put it back in and screw it back into place and then you won’t run the risk of dropping the spring down the chute like I did. If I did this trick it would have only taken me within 2 minutes to change the part...on a side note after finding all the lint I did, I would recommend taking the front and back of the dryer off and getting in there with a vacuum and cleaning it out once every year or two which will save you from a potential fire.

Followed the video on the website and finished it in a short time. Now it works like a new dryer.

Follow the video instructions.

Thank you
partselect.com for a much better heavy duty belt than the original. Way over priced, but well worth it. After watching the video & following it step-by-step, I now have a perfectly running dryer. P.S. don't forget to plug back in the (3) wire harnesses. The entire experience was a great feeling of accomplishment. Thanks again partselect.com

Removed two screws at the back of the dryer and unplugged the PCB. Installed the new PCB which would not power the dryer. Reinstalled the old PCB and everything worked fine. Returned the dead PCB to Partselect.

The design of my dryer is a bit different from the video on PartSelect - but it is very close. And if you watch the really good video on PartSelect plus a few others on Youtube you can figure out how Samsung in general designs the different components. You can fix this yourself definitely.

Cost of part to fix - about $50.
Repairman - didn't even ask. Would probably be $300-400.
Cost of replacement $1,000.

I rated the repair "A bit difficult" only because this is the first time I have ever repaired an appliance. If I were to repair this one again, I'd rate it as Easy.

I'm really thankful for the PartSelect video. This makes DIY repairs possible.

Thanks.