DU8700XY2 Whirlpool Dishwasher - Instructions

I used a pair of needle nose pliers to remove the
Upper Wash Arm Support Clip from the broken support arm. Very quick re-assemble with the new part and I was able to re-use the support clip. The upper wash sprayer unit with its new support arm easily clipped in place on the upper rack.

This is the second time I have replaced a rack. You just pop on the new rollers and you're good to go!

Pulled off the bottom trim, slid the old panel off and put the new panel on. Then popped back on the bottom trim.

removed two hose clamps and old hose. slid new hose on existing fittings on dishwasher drain and disposal and tightened hose clamps. Turned it on for test run.

Just put it on by hand, works great now, saved me at least 50.00!

remove star screws holding inside door panel. remove plastic cover that protects latch assembly. hook one end of spring on stationary pin on inside of slider bar. Hook other end of spring on pin on slider bar. replace cover and door panel.

Actually I ordered the drain and wash impeller kit because it was listed as the #1 cause of failure to drain. I then hired a plumber to install it. He did so and that didn't solve the problem. So I was about to buy a new dishwasher. I then noticed that the second most frequent cause was a problem with the "dishwasher drain check valve." I watched the "partselect" video on how to change that. I didn't have a new one but I thought I would take out the part and see what I could learn. As it turned out it was blocked by a little piece of what appeared to be a walnut chip. I cleaned it out reinstalled the drain check valve and the problem was solved.

Ordered a new upper spray arm from PartSelect. Shipping was fast and the correct part was recieved.
Use a hair drier to warm the prongs that mount to the upper basket. The plastic is softer and will squeeze/fit in place without snapping off the "ears".

Replaced door gasget took 5 minutes tops. Ran cycle and still had leak. Called local repair person. After thoroughly checking out the dishwasher and running soapless cycle determined problem to be soap build up over time. He ran a commercial cleaner through a complete pots and pan cycle. No more suds and no more leak repair complete. Did not actually need door gagset but it was super easy to change and delivery service was great.

Disasembled pump to find dammaged parts replaced with new parts . Made wife very happy .

Installed pump kit. Was surprised the kit seemed different( some parts changed or deleted. Instructed to discard old parts and follow with new configuration. Reassembled and tried t fin it works fine now. Thank you so much

Put in both a new element and thermostat. Did not fix problem. Using an ohm meter I did not measure any voltage to the thermostat. Suspect it’s a problem in the control unit, and decided to replace dishwasher.

Once the covers under the door are removed, the check valve is visible (unless its too dark, hence the headlight), and pointing right at you. Since I was working under the dishwasher, I gathered all the tools I thought I might need and laid them on the floor next to. Removed 2 covers, placed pan under check valve and hose to catch any water, squeezed clamp with (wrong) pliers, it eventually came loose. Carefully twisted hose off check valve. Water came out, some of it got into the pan, most of it on the floor. I guess I should have pumped it out before I started this. Plastic check valve is screwed into the big piece of whatever, carefully grabbed it with (wrong again) pliers and turned it out. Installation is reverse of removal - but use a large pliers with a ROUNDED jaw to grab the round check valve body. Don't squeeze too hard or overtighten it. Put the clamp on the valve before pushing the hose on. Be sure the hose seats all the way onto the little lugs. Compress the clamp, slide it over the end of the hose and release. That's all folks, works good now.

Mine is a Ultra Wash 111
I followed the repair video on your site but my dishwasher was a little different. Not enough that anyone could still understand the video and not get it disassembled. The video shows two ball checks but mine doesn't use them where the videos shows. I put them in anyway because I called Whirlpool, who made my washer, and they assured me that they should be in there. They got sucked through the dump impeller and plugged the discharge tube so I had to disassemble it again and take the ball checks out. Lucky for me nothing got damaged. I then got a hold of someone on your chat line that got me to the correct parts view that shows where the ball check is suppose to go on my washer. During working on my washer I realized the squealing was because the bottom bearing on the motor needed oil. So all and all I'm happy because it runs quiet and it works fine. Thanks Greg

I watched the video link sent in an email and followed exactly what they did in the video. I removed the star head screws holding the door liner in place. Then removed the protective cover on the inside. I disengaged the component holding the latch in place. I replace the component that holds the latch in place and then snapped the new latch in place. I turned the dishwasher dial until the prongs were fully retracted. I replace the protective cover and then put the door cover back in place. I initially only placed the left bottom star head screw until I was sure that the latch was going to release. I tested that it was working properly by slowly turning the dial on the dishwasher control. Once I knew it was working I replaced the rest of the screws.