DU2JV Magic Chef Dishwasher - Instructions

Disassembled my dishwasher and found the rubber on the impeller seal had deteriorated causing the leak. If this is all that is wrong with your unit, it is well worth the repair attempt. Find the service manual pdf on servicematters (dot) com for detailed instructions on removing and re-installing the part. The only thing I have to add is the on my first try installing the part, I still had a leak. I may have just had the motor/impeller slightly mis-aligned (the water tight seal is actually the carbon disk on the impeller rubbing against the carbon disk on the seal seat in the pump housing). On the second attempt I used silicone to glue the 'seal seat' into the pump housing (carbon side out). After waiting a day for the silicone to dry, the dishwasher ran without leaking. It continues to be leak free several weeks later.

First, I removed the screws that hold the interior part of the door in place. Next, I removed the two screws that covers the interior parts of the latch release in place. Then, I removed the broken latch, put in the new one and attached the spring. I put the pieces back in place, and the two screws back in. Finally, I screwed the door panel back together.

1) Emptied Dishwasher (roll-around model)
2) Tipped it onto its back
3) Removed Toe Kick (2 screws) and Bottom Cover (4 screws) (screw driver)
4) Opened Door to access side panel (careful not to let it drop on my fingers)
5) Using Torx driver, removed two screws holding side panel on. This makes it easier to access the linkage and spring.
6) Removed broken link
7) Installed new link and spring noting the spring direction from the spring on the other side of the door.
8) Pulled spring over the bottom rail bracket with pliers.
9) Reinstalled panels in the reverse order.

Turned off power. Removed lower, two panels. Turned power back on and started dishwasher. Saw leak from 7' drain hose. Turned off power, disconnected hose, ordered new hose, installed on washer and routed back to garbage disposal. Turned on power, checked for leaks (none) and replaced 2 front, lower panels.

first I turned off the water to the dishwasher, and turned the power off for the dishwasher.
removed the 4 screws from bottom panel
then removed the 2 screws from the bottom of the counter,
at this point I could pull the dishwasher out. then figured out where the part went and attached.
pushed the dishwasher back and lined up the holes under the counter, put those in first, the put the bottom panel back on, turned the water back on, and flipped the breaker switch.
Reading the other stories really did help me get some idea of what needed to be done

Everything is straight forward with the following two exceptions; The threads that hold the motor fan to the impeller are left hand, and it takes a special tool to remove the top rotating assembly. It took about 4 hours to figure out what to do, and make the tool . I put it back together in about 20 minutes.

I followed instructions of others that were posted. Door seal was simply removing old seal, cleaning track and pushing new seal in,making sure it was even all around. Removing the door cover to get at the Dispenser grommet was simply removing all 7 hex nut screws. Had to go out and buy the proper hex nut screwdriver . I did not remove the wiring, just turned cover over to remove the two nuts holding the dispenser. The nut on the left was a little hard to get off, had to kind of force the socket onto the nut. Otherwise all went well and simply removed the old grommet and installed new one. Finding the right tools was the part that took the longest. I had hard water before putting in a water softener so that was probably hard on the seals plus the machine was an older model. No problems now and saved having someone come in and do a repair.

Attaching the part to the door only took a few minutes but getting the dishwasher out over the hardwood floor that was installed after the appliance was put in was a pain. I had to remove a piece of the hardwood floor and use some technique to get it out of the opening so that the springs were visable. There is no problem after that. I would recommend using work gloves to stretch the spring over the retaining notch on the door so that you don't pinch your hand.

I removed the old door gasket and thoroughly cleaned the track. I placed the new door gasket in place- no problems.
I had to remove the 7 screws from around the door to access the old, crumbled gasket. This was accessed by removing 2 screws with a socket wrench. The old gasket pulled out and the new one slipped right in.
No more leaks!

easy repair. The foam has to go over some wires but if you stretch it alittle as you place it all goes well

Removed covers on the bottom of dishwasher so I could get access to area. Measured no voltage on water inlet pump. removed to wires from foat switch, one screw to remove float switch. When I pressed the float switch button to activate the switch would not move. Ordered and replaced the switch. 30 minutes tops

Initially thought this issue was the dishwasher door gasket, but after reading post on this site about door latch grommet, removed 7 "hex screws" pulled inside of dishwasher door away and traced water from leak back to soap dispenser latch/grommet area so instead of ordering door gasket ordered door latch and grommet. Replaced grommet only (in addition to 7 "hex screws" had to remove 2 additional screws to get to it) which took some maneuvering. Re-aligned grommet and latch, inserted and tightened all screws that had been removed. Works great - no more water leaking!

The problem is a worn seal ring. That ring is inside the lower spray arm's spray nozzle support assembly. The wash arm spins on that assembly.

I unscrewed the lower spray nozzle popup, from the wash arm support. That part, from which the extending spray nozzle rotator pops out, simply unscrews, by hand, from the wash arm support. Then I could lift off the wash arm itself to get it out of the way for the next step.

With the wash arm removed, I could then gently pry off the flat filter cover which was underneath the wash arm (the filter cover is simply clipped on. Use a screwdriver).

Now, reaching inside where the that popup spray nozzle was screwed on, you can see and/or feel a tall skinny plastic piece in the center of it, which actually screws that wash arm support onto, well, the rest of the dishwasher.

With that "screw" removed by hand, I removed the wash arm support.

Inside that wash arm support the old ring seal can be removed and the new one inserted.

Simply reverse the process to re-assemble.

Note that it's hard to determine where, exactly, to put that ring seal, inside the wash arm support. But it seemed to me it didn't really matter as long as it was just in there.

Read the Diagram on Parts Select Site and it only took me about 15 Minutes to disassamble and install the New Parts. Very Easy once I read the Schematic on the site.

Remove the lower panel by taking out the 2 screws on top and 2 at the bottom of the panel. To diagnose the problem, verify that there is water supplied from the valve under the sink to the water supply valve under the DW. This can be done by turning off the valve under the sink, disconnecting the copper supply line under the DW then turning on the valve under the sink to see if water passes through the line.

The float switch is located on the left front (as you face the DW). This is activated by the float in the tub. Check to be certain that the float is not restricted. The contact point on the switch is a spring loaded plunger. It should depress as the float rises and pop back out as the float returns to its low point.

Turn off the circuit breaker for the DW. To remove the switch, pull off the two electric leads from the switch. Mark the top lead with a piece of tape. Then remove the one philips screw. Replace the switch by reversing the procedure. Note that you have aligned the float contact point with the float.