This rear drum bearing kit comes with a shaft, bearing and installation instructions. The bearing plate comes with a slot in it for the ground strap. Helps keep your dryer running as smoothly as poss...
The adjustable leveling screws on the bottom of your dryer can be screwed in or out to lower or raise the leg level. If one of the leveling screws is stripped, damaged, or missing, you may not be able...
The lint filter and frame for your dryer traps unwanted lint and debris so your dryer can effectively dry your clothes. If the old lint filter is cracked or clogged, or the dryer takes too long to dry...
Replaces "T" and "V" style motors. Includes two motor pulleys. If you have an older model dryer, the pulley may be pressed on or held on with a set screw. If pulley is pressed on, a new motor pulley must be ordered.
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Terry
January 17, 2020
How to change a three prong plug to a four prong plug
For model number DLB2650BDL
Good Day Terry. Thank you for your question in regards to your unit (Model Number DLB2650BDL). Based on our research, we have found the following steps that should assist you with changing from a 3 to 4 pronged cord: **Start by turning off the power to the dryer. Position the dryer so you can access the place where the cord enters the back of the machine. Be sure to unplug the dryer before opening the access panel to remove the cord.** 1) Open the access panel. 2) With the dryer unplugged, open the access panel where the cord enters the back of the dryer. 3) Use pieces of masking tape to label which colored wire attaches to each terminal. 4) The wires are typically color coded with a black wire, a white wire in the middle, and a red wire. 5) Loosen the connection screws holding the wires in place. Then disconnect the ground wire or strap that connects the center terminal to the case. 6) Use pliers to hold the strain relief bracket in place while loosening the bracket screws. 7) Remove the old cord. 8) For a four prong cord, attach the white wire to the center terminal, the red wire to the right, and the black wire to the left terminal. Then attach the green wire to the green grounding screw or dryer case. 9) Finally, remove the masking tape labels. 10) Fit the strain relief bracket into the cord access hole and tighten both brackets screws firmly onto the cord. You definitely do not want to skip this step. This bracket protects the connections and helps to avoid a short if the cord is yanked. 11) After the bracket is tightened, replace the access panel on the back of the dryer. We hope this helps! Best Regards.
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RICHARD
March 1, 2023
ACRID SMELL AND NO HEAT, DRUM WAS TURNING
For model number DLB2650BDL
Hello Richard, thank you for reaching out. Based on our research, the most common cause of an acrid smell coming from your dryer is a clogged lint filter. We would recommend replacing the lint filter, part number PS266250. To fix the heating issue, you may need to check the following parts: high limit thermostat, part number PS268083, and cycling thermostat, part number PS268095. We hope this solves your problem!
i removed the scews just above thr opened dryer door, i was then able to swing the dryer top cover back. i then removed the lower front panel screws ,the the screws securing the front of the dryer ( where the door is ) and removed it. there are just 2 wires to disconnect. after the front is removed you gain full access for drum removal, remove the belt make sure the wires are not in the way and remove the drum.i also used a vacuume to clean the inside of the dryer. the front drum slides are very easy to replace only 2 screws each.remove old parts install new parts then just put the dryer back together in the reverse order i took it apart. after re-assembly i turned the dryer on it was so quiet running my wife and dogs were very happy. ps. i just want to thank the people at partselect for having all my parts in stock and for the speed in which i received them. other than having to repair my dryer it was a very pleasant experiance.
first I took the dryer apart 1st thing i did was unplug the power supply (safety first) then I removed the top of the unit then removed the front cleaned all the lint from the inside of the cabinet I found the proper belt size on part select.com the next day I had my dryer belt delivered (which cost 1/3 the price of the local repair shop price) then I placed the belt over the dryer drum and made sure it was in the general location it should be I then replaced the front cover and the top. then I removed the rear cover which was held on by six 5/16 sheet metal screws which gave me access to the drive pulley and belt tensioner the belt goes on by going under the tensioner then around the drive pulley Then i rotated the drum by hand to make sure everything had clearance I then buttend everything up plugged it and started it up it workd fine and I figure Ill get another 8 years out of it Thank you partselect.com
I initially opened the front of the dryer and noticed that the drum slides that the drum rides on in the front of the dryer were excessively worn. I then removed the drum and noticed that the plastic bearing that supported the drum in the rear was cracked and the washer(?) appered to be disintigrating. I ordered and replaced the drum slides and rear bearing. The dryer was still making too much noise. I ran the motor with the drum removed and realized that they motor was the remaining source of the excessive noise. I then ordered and replaced the motor with a new one and this solved the problem. Total cost was around $140. Note that when ordering a new motor, the instructions on the web site indicate that you need to order the motor pulley if your existing motor has a pressed on pulley. The new motor was a kit that came with the pulley included, and therefore the additional part was not needed, and had to be returned. The instructional videos and parts schematics on the web site were very helpful.