DG810 Maytag Dryer - Instructions

I removed the cover from the control panel, took out the schematic, removed the rear cover by the motor, followed the schematic, powered the heater by taking the blue hot leg wire off the right side of the switch and touching it to the black lead for the heater on the left side, and I could hear the heater power on. Since bypassing the motor start switch powered the heater, I ordered the part. When it came, I installed it in about 5 minutes and the dryer worked perfectly.

Undid two screws in lower front of dryer and popped off front. Removed screws holding lint screen duct and brackets supporting tumbler and removed duct and tumbler quite easily. Pulled, cleaned and oiled rear rollers, replaced front glides, and thoroughly cleaned exhaust duct of lint. Put new belt into position on the roller before sliding tumbler back in, then pulled belt over tumbler as it went in. Be careful to follow belt path directions correctly.
Key to this repair was obtaining the parts so easily from Parts Select.com. Ordered at 2pm and had them 2pm the following day. Unbelievable! These machines are relatively simple to keep running when the parts are available so easily. Thanks for great service.

Replaced both rollers,shafts, bearings and snap rings.

Upon receipt of part, just loosened 1 fastener, slid igniter forward and out....unclipped wire connection and replaced... Could not have been easier. Be careful not to overtighten fastener when replacing. Description and pictures made for very easy selection.

The directions provided to modify the gas valve were very clear. Getting to the gas valve I was on my own. Taking the top and the face off the dryer, once I figured out that there was no reaching the gas valve from any of the access ports on the back, was the only way to access to the gas valve. If you have worked on any other dryers, this modification was definitely doable.

Graet

The directions for the door latch kit told you to take the front of the washer apart to remove the old latch. But in my case the latch was broken in such a way that was not necessary. The new part just popped into place! No more fridge magnets holding the door closed!!!

And the new lint filter is great, the old one was so gunked up with old lint it was becoming difficult to clean.

I don't really know how old my dryer is, I purchased it used about 3 years ago.

No tools required, just insert the new lint filter in place of the old one. My dryer is about 20 years old. I think I was lucky to even be able to find a replacement lint filter.

Looked in one of the back removable panels and saw the broken belt. Took the machines front panel off per a You Tube video and saw the repair was simple but too the time to vacuum out a large amount of Lint Debris that had accumulated over the past 34 years all over the inside of the machine which is dangerous.. After cleaning it all up I simply put the new belt on and put everything back together and it all works nicely again!

I watched your YouTube video. Access to the interior of the dryer and replacing parts was EASY. Unlike the machines in the videos ACCESS is VERY EASY as only one panel needs to be removed. Access is from the FRONT PANEL and secured by two top clips and two front bottom screws. Just unscrew and swing the bottom up at about a 45 degree angle; the panel comes off and can be placed to the side. I first replaced a thermostat and a coil kit but still no heat. I then ordered a new FLAT STYLE IGNITER ( which I discovered was broken off ) and a RADIANT FLAME SENSOR and these parts FIXED THE PROBLEM. Parts cost about $90 (Dec. 2016) including shipping.

Removed front cover.removed 4 screws holding drum in place. Cleaned out lint from everywhere. Placed new belt over drum looping it over idler arm & motor pulley. Pushed drum back ; rotated drum to see that belt was engaged. Put front drum bracket in place. Put front panel in place with 2 screws at the bottom. Tested motor & rotation of drum; then checked heat. All worked fine. Took 1 hr. but most time spent cleaning lint.

I removed the front of the dryer and the drum support plate. I drilled out the old rivets and installed the Glides with the enclose rivets. The Glides came loose in a few days! The holes in the glides are larger than in the old Glides. I disassembled the dryer again and reassembled with my rivets. This time I held the rivet gun inside the perimeter of the dryer so that the head of the rivet is opposite the initial installation. So far, so good, except the dryer still squeaks. The idler pulley is now the culprit. White grease burned up. I reassembled with high temperature grease. If that does not work, I will need another idler pulley. The journal looks very worn. the dryer is 30+ years old.

Took longer to open the box that it did to drop the new lint filter into the dryer. Washed a load of clothes and the new dryer filter worked great

Thanks.

R. Bonker

Followed instruction video

first i turn the gas and power off then removed the
old coil and reconnected the new one. the dryer is as good as new. the delivery time on the parts was great.

FRED KENNEY SR