DG21CT Maytag Dryer - Instructions

Graet

My Maytag gas dryer model MDG7600AWW is about 12 years old. Everything else works fine except it takes 4-5 drying cycles instead of 1 to completely dry my clothes properly. The flat igniter was simply cracked but not broken so it only worked some times. My gas dryer igniter and the 2 ignition coils work hand in hand so I replaced all 3 parts. The ignition coils provide a solid and consistent power supply to the igniter for proper burner tube function. Disconnect power cord from wall outlet. Shut off gas supply by turning the wall gas valve off. Remove 2 small philips screws to detach front panel door from dryer frame. Remove 2 additional philips screws on left front side panel inner door frame. Gently pull front dryer panel off beginning at top and put it aside. Igniter and the 2 ignition coils are plainly visible and easily accessible at bottom right corner of dryer. Igniter is attached to the burner tube and facing into the heater housing assembly. The 2 ignition coils are attached just above the gas valve on the rear of the burner tube. The ignition coils are simply attached to the rear of the heater tube with one bracket using 2 small philips screws. First, disconnect igniter plug wire harness. Next, I recommend using a small open end applicable size wrench (5/16 perhaps) to remove attaching igniter screw. A small 1/4 ratchet with applicable socket size may also be used. Handle the igniter only from the white ceramic part when installing. You don't have to completely remove the igniter screw from the burner tube. The igniter has a white ceramic horse shoe shape slot in which the attaching screw goes through for tightening to the burner tube. Just unscrew generously for removal and replacement of the igniter. Do NOT over tighten igniter screw as the white ceramic plate may break from over torqing. Reconnect igniter wire plug harness. The igniter part I used was PartSelect Number PS373025. Next, remove the ignition coil bracket by unscrewing the 2 small philips screws from rear of the heater tube frame. Remove only 1 ignition coil at a time by removing the wire plug harness and simply lifting upward. One coil will have 2 prongs while the other has 3 prongs so you can't go wrong when reconnecting the wire plug harnesses. I used the PartSelect 'M' Series New Style Coil Kit (2 coils included)which was PartSelect Number PS334310. Replace the front dryer panel back. Attach the front door to the panel and dryer frame using the 2 philips screws. Attach the 2 left side inner door front panel philips screws to dryer frame. Turn on the wall gas valve. Reconnect power cord to wall outlet.

Replaced both rollers,shafts, bearings and snap rings.

I didn't think it would fit as it looked bigger then the old one, I called the service department and they were very helpful. They made note of the fact that I had called with questions in case I had to call again, but it worked, and no one laughed at me. It was very nice of them. Thank you for all the help

Upon receipt of part, just loosened 1 fastener, slid igniter forward and out....unclipped wire connection and replaced... Could not have been easier. Be careful not to overtighten fastener when replacing. Description and pictures made for very easy selection.

Per instructions I printed off online: took off door, then the front panel. Pulled out the old switch/button, connected the new switch/button, made sure the new button was working; put the panel back on then the door and DONE!

Undid two screws in lower front of dryer and popped off front. Removed screws holding lint screen duct and brackets supporting tumbler and removed duct and tumbler quite easily. Pulled, cleaned and oiled rear rollers, replaced front glides, and thoroughly cleaned exhaust duct of lint. Put new belt into position on the roller before sliding tumbler back in, then pulled belt over tumbler as it went in. Be careful to follow belt path directions correctly.
Key to this repair was obtaining the parts so easily from Parts Select.com. Ordered at 2pm and had them 2pm the following day. Unbelievable! These machines are relatively simple to keep running when the parts are available so easily. Thanks for great service.

I had replaced belt, but the noise continued. Ordered new rollers and washer. Removed the front panel by tipping the dryer back against the wall and removing two screws at the bottom of the panel. Tipping the dryer makes it easy to remove the front panel. Removed the front drum support by removing four (4) screws. I was then able to just move the drum enough to have access to the rollers. Didn't even have to remove the belt. Replaced the rollers. Needed special pliers to remove and replace the retaining rings. Put the drum back into position and mounted the front drum support. Tightened four screws and then put the front panel back on. Plugged it in and tested it. Problem solved. Took about 35 minutes. Thanks

The numbers on the metal plates were the JC Penney numbers - that no one recognizes. I eventually found the model number inside the timer case on a printed schematic. I started by disassembling whatever metal covers were removable by finding sheet metal screws and unscrewing them. If you pull on the sheet metal covers, you can find where they are connected to the frame. Eventually, I found that both the heating element was broken and the thermostat was fried. It took a while looking at various websites to find the proper parts. It's all OK now.

Took longer to open the box that it did to drop the new lint filter into the dryer. Washed a load of clothes and the new dryer filter worked great

Thanks.

R. Bonker

Found the high temp thermostat was shutting off the gas after just a few seconds. Tested the thermostat and it looked like it was opening at 180 degrees as opposed to the rated 240 degrees, so I ordered one from PartSelect, which shipped the next business day. Replaced the thermostat and no luck, still shutting down after a few seconds. Turns out the duct going outside the house was blocked with years of lint stopping the air flow. Cleaned out the duct and the dryer is working fine again. Wife is happy she won't have to go to the laundromat.

I bought a new one and replaced it.

Turn off circuit breaker or unplug. Remove two screws 4 inches from bottom front panel of cabinet with stubby phillips head. Pull panel towards you about 30 degrees; then wiggle it down, to free two steel spring clips holding it to cabinet. Pull off red and yellow wire from door switch. Now set front panel aside. Blower assembly is facing you at lower left. Open the housing by removing six small screws from cover and one attached to dryer base. Remove spring clip from end of shaft. (A circlip pliers helps to prevent it from springing off somewhere.). Squeeze spring retainer surrounding blower wheel shaft with regular pliers, and wiggle the blower off. Replace in reverse order. Be sure insulation around blower wheel housing seats properly into front panel. This keeps the hot air flowing up past the lint trap.
Easy job, about half hour. Mine took longer, because I had removed the belt and drum, thinking the noise came from bad drum support rollers. It was just the plastic blower wheel shaft seat, which had worn itself round. Cost $20 (including shipping) and my 29-year old Maytag is as good as new--at least for now.

first i turn the gas and power off then removed the
old coil and reconnected the new one. the dryer is as good as new. the delivery time on the parts was great.

FRED KENNEY SR

Just pulled out the old filter and inserted the new one. went great and fit good.